What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

[Vhyle]

I understand the procedure and the reasons for doing so having just done it myself this week while putting new GP's in. What I don't understand is why his resistor is smoking if he bypassed it?

I'm wondering the same thing. If you just cut the output supply from the resistor, and power the GP relay from the 12v junction above it on the firewall, does the GP resistor block still get 24v from the other side? If so, then I can see where this could happen. But if the supply into the resistor block is cut off, then obviously it shouldn't smoke or do anything. So I'm wondering about his problem as well.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

I guess that is what is happening. When I did the bypass, I removed the 24v feed to the resistor completely.

 

[Vhyle]

Speaking of... I plan on doing the resistor bypass as well. The 12v junction that's on the firewall above the relay, is it constant hot? Or is it only hot KOEO?

If it's constant hot, then I imagine I would need a switch in that circuit as well.

I guess that is what is happening. When I did the bypass, I removed the 24v feed to the resistor completely.

Right. I imagine the best way to do it is to cut the 24v feed completely, to prevent this kind of issue coming up.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

It is constant hot but the relay only gets activated by the card or if you ground the blue wire from the card manually. No switch needed.

 

[Vhyle]

It is constant hot but the relay only gets activated by the card or if you ground the blue wire from the card manually. No switch needed.

Excellent, thanks for the quick reply.

 

[DriverSideImpact1008]

I understand the procedure and the reasons for doing so having just done it myself this week while putting new GP's in. What I don't understand is why his resistor is smoking if he bypassed it?

Oh gotcha. I think it was just poor wording in the O.P's post. I think he meant he had to do a resistor bypass today because the resistor fried yesterday.

 

[SRB1976]

I understand the procedure and the reasons for doing so having just done it myself this week while putting new GP's in. What I don't understand is why his resistor is smoking if he bypassed it?

I think you misunderstood me. I did the resistor bypass mod the day AFTER it burned up.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

Check GP's, do bypass and good to go. Glad you are on the road. You're right there, might as well bypass the wiper suppressor as well if you haven't already.

 

[SRB1976]

Check GP's, do bypass and good to go. Glad you are on the road. You're right there, might as well bypass the wiper suppressor as well if you haven't already.

Wiper suppressor?

 

[MakersTeleMark]

Unplug the wire to the radio noise suppressor on the side of the truck and plug it directly into the wiper motor. It's useless, and has been known to slow down your wiper motor under certain circumstances. Just another little nook and cranny CUCV thing.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

You could feed 240v to that resistor all day long and it wouldn't get hot.


Until you put a load on the other end. Then it will go POOF.


Point is, if the resister is disconnected from the glow plug circuit, it will not heat up whether the 24v is still there or not. No load, no current. No current, no heat.

 

[Anubis8472]

More electrical tinkering last night.

Rewired the headlights again. They're run through a pair of relays which I wired wrong and had to redo.
(had ground/control signal switched and didn't realise it was a one-way connection untill the lights failed to fire up)
Installed a set of ceramic headlight plugs. Just in time as the drivers side factory plug was half melted.

Found a wayward ground wire up by the drivers side headlight coming out of the wiring harness right in the front corner of the fender/clip area.
Strange thing was it's a short ground wire with the ground terminal still attached. The terminal was clean and looked like it had only recently become loose.
Yet there was no evidence of a grounding point ever being anywhere within reach of that short wire. (man ... should have taken a picture.)
In any event I extended it and grounded it. I'm thinking it may be a BO light ground, I'll have to see if they're still working.

Checked the entire circuit for my civy radio. Once I finished up and reinstalled everything I was pulling the truck out of the garage and I flipped my toggle that sends power to my radio.
........nothing.
Got the meter back out and checked through the entire circuit and could not find a darn thing wrong with it. Crap I'm thinking, I blew my radio. Why didn't the darn fuse pop.
Then not even thinking I reached over and pressed the knob in on the radio and bang.
It was just "turned off". (from disconnecting both batts and severing it's constant feed)
Usually it still displays time/date etc.
Last time I pulled the batts it did not do this, guessing it's because I had the batts out all night as opposed to just a few minutes.

Found my "rattly squeky" noise. Belts.
Gattorbacks that are about a year old, they look like they may have stretched out a bit so belt adjustment-next on the list.
Oh goody, these belts were so much fun putting on I just can't wait!

 

[SRB1976]

Replaced the glow plug relay this evening. I think the old one burned out after I did the resistor bypass. The truck was harder than **** to start this morning and the wait light seems like it stayed on forever. I used a Carquest relay #56-2432 I hope it's the right one. It does have an isolated ground.

 

[SETOYOTA]

Just drove mine around

 

[Vhyle]

I ordered an M18x1.25 die to repair the threads on the alternator. I could have just re-cut the threads to a more common size. In most situations, I would have done that, but I decided against that in this case since I don't want the pulley to be at risk of slipping under a heavy load. I need the threads to be as strong as possible.

Nobody here locally had an M18x1.25 die available, so I had to order it. Yikes.

EDIT: I'm sure this will be the ONLY time I will ever use this size die. But since I work in a machining/welding shop (no, we didn't have one at work either), it just might come in handy again one day. Maybe.

 

[Keith_J]

3500 miles since last oil change and it is a quart low. Highway miles without any visible drip. I am certain most of it went through the CDR into the intake.

 

[twomorestrokes]

3500 miles since last oil change and it is a quart low. Highway miles without any visible drip. I am certain most of it went through the CDR into the intake.

Not bad. Mine uses more than that with 32k on the odometer. If you think that's bad, my wife's Grand Prix GXP with the 5.3 Chevy V8 REALLY drinks it at a quart per 1000 miles. Those are notorious for oil use. I just see it as always having clean oil in it.

 

[FireFighterHill]

Has anyone with a CUCV tried using a oil/air separator after the CDR?

 

[twlinks]

Yesterday I got the front end and cab top primed with a couple of coats of rattle can Rustoleum. It needs a little more sanding in a couple of spots and then another coat of primer, then I'm finally ready to paint!!! Wonder how many calm, 60 degree days we'll have this winter in Kansas. None in the forecast for now, but who knows.

 

[Keith_J]

Has anyone with a CUCV tried using a oil/air separator after the CDR?

I think that would be a good idea. I bolstered the one on my VW TDI with an extra fine filter element.