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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

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lindyp38

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ulster county ny
i replaced a wheel stud and and nut so i can pass va's vehicle inspection. It was one of the four things that i failed on. The other things are a head light has moisture in it, which i'll replace tommorrow, the passenger side marker light lense is cracked, so i am awaiting a new one that i ordered, and the stupid orange needle for the gear shift indicator (not sure what it is actually called) broke. Well the needle is fine but i am guessing by the looks of it there was a plastic guid that broke for the wire. If some one does not mind could some one post a picture of how the whole thing is suppose to look like. I am going to have to think of a way to rig it to make it work.
ok...this might help
 

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islandguydon

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Michigan
Kipman suggested a in-line fuel pump. I am glad he did. The trucks starts in 5 seconds cold. I also am replacing the hood with a NOS from Memphis equipment. The old hood separated at the skeleton. I also put fat mat and peel and stick under the new hood for sound. The old hood is free to who ever needs one. You have to epoxy the skeleton again.
 

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bshupe

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Location
Mount Vernon, WA
Kipman suggested a in-line fuel pump. I am glad he did. The trucks starts in 5 seconds cold. I also am replacing the hood with a NOS from Memphis equipment. The old hood separated at the skeleton. I also put fat mat and peel and stick under the new hood for sound. The old hood is free to who ever needs one. You have to epoxy the skeleton again.

Do you have any specifics on that pump and install?

Thanks!
 

islandguydon

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Do you have any specifics on that pump and install? Thanks!
This is all I have, easy install. Install as close to the tank as possible. These are made to push fuel not pull.

Brand Mr. Gasket Manufacturer's Part Number12D
Part Type Fuel Pumps, Electric External
Product Line Mr. Gasket Micro Electronic Fuel Pumps
Summit Racing Part Number MRG-12DUPC084041022597
Free Flow Rate35 gph
Maximum Pressure: (psi)4 to 7 psi
Inlet Size:3/8 in.
Inlet Quantity:One
Inlet Attachment: NippleOutlet Size3/8 in.
Outlet Quantity: One
Outlet Attachment: Nipple
Notes: Diesel fuel only.

These Mr. Gasket micro electronic fuel pumps are compatible with gasoline or diesel (depending on the application) based fuels and additives. They feature solid-state, worry-free electronics and eliminate vapor lock and flooding. Mr. Gasket micro electronic fuel pumps are great as stand-alone or booster pumps, are self-priming, and have a simple 2-wire design. They work with 12 V negative-ground systems and include mounting hardware. Mr. Gasket micro electronic fuel pumps will supply adequate fuel, time and time again.
 

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camp9

Member
987
9
18
Location
Yooperland, Mi
Kipman suggested a in-line fuel pump. I am glad he did. The trucks starts in 5 seconds cold. I also am replacing the hood with a NOS from Memphis equipment. The old hood separated at the skeleton. I also put fat mat and peel and stick under the new hood for sound. The old hood is free to who ever needs one. You have to epoxy the skeleton again.
Where'd you get the fat mat?
 

camp9

Member
987
9
18
Location
Yooperland, Mi
In my case I'm using it in the WVO/WMO tank, as a booster, but if I was using just for he diesel onlyI'd just bypass the mechanical pump. I'm sure thats what islandguy did.
 

islandguydon

Well-known member
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Michigan
Could you tell me please is this pump used to supplement the oem engine driven pump or you have bypassed it altogether?? Thanks.....
Andy, I got the FatMat off epay. The booster pump is mounted on the rail at the first hard line break to hose coupling. As directed by Kipman this is a booster pump. I left the original mechanical pump in place. The new pump is a godsend for starting. I am amazed. The pump is wired to the 12v circuit panel to a 10a fuse for dash lights, I think. Never the less it has a minimal amp draw.
 

islandguydon

Well-known member
3,724
783
113
Location
Michigan
In my case I'm using it in the WVO/WMO tank, as a booster, but if I was using just for he diesel onlyI'd just bypass the mechanical pump. I'm sure thats what islandguy did.
I saw Camp9's diesel wmo set up a few months ago. He has a transfer tank in the bed of the truck for the fuel/oil/wmo/wvo. I was impressed. Hats off to ya Andy for the ingenuity and resourcefulness you have in your projects.
 
Put a layer of Lowes roofing patch roll on the floor. Put heat shield under the rubber mat and up the firewall. Cut up an old bed mat into floor mats. Painted the dash pad, door panels, kick panels etc. black.
Going to insulate the doors and the hood. Install a gear drive starter.
Still need to get the glow plugs swapped.
 

chuck0070

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Location
Hampstead, NH
I put on a set of Goodyear Dura Trak 33X12.50, cleaned and adjusted rear brake calipers, replaced vacuum regulator valve (transmission was starting out in 2nd gear rather than first gear), replaced both oil cooler lines and changed oil and filter.
 

TVOLLMER

New member
31
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Location
Sandy, OR
700r4

I just swapped in a built 700r4 w/np 208. I had to track down a filler tube and stick from a mid 90's chev 1/2 ton truck, and relocate the 700 cross member and drill new holes. A little tip, always replace the input seal before install, even if it looks new. projects starts over tomorrow.
 

Castle Bravo

Hundredaire Socialite
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,964
215
63
Location
Arizona
- New glow plugs
- New glow plug connectors
- 24v resistor bypass
- New power brake booster

Still to do-

New flexplate
Fuel filter change
Wheel bearings
New kingpin bushings
New Steering stabilizer
New tires
Transmission vacuum lines
Transmission fluid change
Transmission filter change
Dash lights work
Power steering filter?
 

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