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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

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ryan77

Well-known member
2,584
56
48
Location
Cary IL
Did your new one(air filter) have the sock on it? I,m looking for the one that does since the TM shows it I don't have alot of power anyway in stock form but hay dust makes me want it(summer time hay making season) Thank in advance.

Ive thrown out about 5 of them, go to napa they can get you one !!!!
 

CycleJay

New member
1,433
7
0
Location
Marietta, Ga
Hi Guys,

Today, I drove my M1009 to and from work without any serious issues.
So far, so good.

Thank you for all your help guys, God bless America and all of you...

Good night,

CJ
 

DanR7985

New member
27
0
0
Location
Greenview, IL
I dropped the old tank.

There it is in all it's glory.

I put Chassis Saver on the new 31 gallon tank.

While I had it out I also put some Chassis Saver on the under carriage and the frame rails where I could reach.

I will hopefully put it all in tomorrow.

I also worked on the new axles I am going to put underneath it. 8 lug Dana 44 front and Dana 60 FF rear. I have all the parts to convert the full time 4x4 front axle to manual hubs. I was able to loosen most of the bolts on the outer hub. There were a couple on one side I could not get, but it was getting cold and dark so I gave up for the day. One side I got all of them off, but I could not get the actual outer hub to pull off. I am new to all of this stuff so if anyone has any experience or tips I would greatly appreciate it.
 

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DanR7985

New member
27
0
0
Location
Greenview, IL
Just got the new fuel tank in. Bled the system and it runs. The fuel gauge STILL does not work. I am at a loss. I guess it's time to go check the connections again. I know the ground is good. I wonder if there is something wrong with the pink wire. Hmmm.
 
479
0
16
Location
Madison, WI
This week, I finished removing the passenger side radios that I'm selling to another SS member. ---I still have one(1) MT-1029 mounting base (for use with an [FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]RT-246, VRC-240, or RT-524)[/FONT], and two(2) MT-1098's (one with an interconnect box and cable). I also, have the full VRC-53 radio setup: PRC25 radio (with the backpack to make it a portable field radio), AM-2060 amplifier, MT-1029 power supply base. The cables, a headset and a handset, and a power supply cable. And two AS-1729 antenna bases w/antennas. PM me if you see something you like.

Today, I patched the hole left in the floor from where the radio supply cables entered inside.

Yesterday, installed a new GPR109 glow plug relay, and bypassed my glow plug controller card, hooked up to a momentary push button. Works good, although there is now a whining/buzzing noise from inside the cab when I turn the glow plugs on :-?

Then I got the beast a much needed car wash. :D
 

Red_506

New member
179
0
0
Location
Roseville, CA
I finally cleared out enough space in my garage for my 1009, with that my 24v battery tender arrived in the mail today so I can insure that my batteries are up to snuff when I take her out.
 

wayne pick

New member
658
2
0
Location
Valley Cottage NY
After failing to chase down the problem with my fuel guage that tested good, I replaced the old sender wich tested bad and still had no fuel guage. After having the dash apart three times, I ended up running a new sender wire to a new 2in 0/90 ohm GM compatible fuel guage. I installed it next to the bat/gen guage, and wired it up. It looks like it belongs there. Im thinking of using a fuse box out of a 2002 blazer so I can fuse my accesory's witthout using inline fuses.
 

chief1983

Member
290
1
16
Location
Saint Charles, MO
Got my driveshaft installed again. Not sure why the last one failed so quick, but I've got a couple ideas. I might have had the caps pressed in poorly, putting the joint in a bind. But, I think the more likely culprit might be that the -20 said the rear u-joint only gets two clips. It doesn't say anything about installing the clips on the caps that get held in by the bolt-on clamps. I think one of those caps might have somehow squirreled free. All I have to judge from is the dents on my mufflers to guess which end of the shaft broke free first, and I do believe it was the axle side. So this time, I put those clips on the caps anyway, and they do rest nicely against the bolt on clamps on the flange. Anyone else know if the TM was just wrong about not mentioning to install those other clips?
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,823
1,300
113
Location
Laramie County, Wyoming
This is a post of an on going saga but since i can't find my original postings on the subject, I'll provide a little background and then go into the meat of the last few days. First off before i begin, most of the work over the past days has been one handed. My right hand is pretty non-functional cause it just got fuzed (sp?). I've been going absolutely stir crazy not being able to do anything except watch reruns of old movies. I snuck out to the shop and got busy.

First thing done was the dog head mod. Slight variation that I did was to remove the wires from the plug. Easy to do and makes for two less wires that must be cut and modified. All you do is insert a small screw driver into the face of the plug (where it plugs into the old switch) give it a little twist and it almost falls out. Two wires fit perfect on the male connectors provided with the dog head. I cut the other two and used a one handed wire stripper to strip the other two. Picked out the correct sized yellow connector and poof, done. Drilled an extra hole for the second bolt holding the dog head on its plate (vise works wonders), scrounged up a couple correctly sized bolts with lock washer and reinstalled everything. Total time taken: two hours. Have to think out each step, scrutinize it thoroughly and give it a try. Ended up redoing several tasks more than once but I kept busy and got it done. Pictures are already posted repeatedly so i won't take one unless someone really needs to see it.

Second job is and has been since purchase a recurring fuel deivery problem. I confirmed today that somewhere between the tank and the filter is an air leak. Once the engine shuts down, the fuel drains back into the tank. The truck would start but once the filter fuel was gone, engine shut down every time.

Parts changed included: mechanical pump, fuel filter, fuel sending unit, almost every hose, fuel filter manifold (didn't work, bought the one for a dodge CUCV, slightly different and wont work on a Chevy), two electric diesel fuel pumps (burnt the first one up) assorted wiring, hoses, clamps and that's about it. Most of the hardware (clamps bolts, etc) came from my immense hoard of hardware accumulated over the span of decades worth of yard sales. got almost one of everything. Somethings I didn't know i had.

Before the surgery I set up the new electric pump, a 5 gallon can of clean diesel, fuel hoses and assorted wiring for the pump. the idea was to completely bypass everything except the mechanical pump and filter and see if it would run. Ran out of time and battery juice so today i finally was able to test the idea. Been charging the batteries slowly for the past two days so they had a good solid charge.

The test: I placed the pump so it sat on the body just in front of the front battery. Placed a coffee can next to the rear battery for the filter drain. Cut a 5 +/- foot length of 5/16th fuel hose and ran it from the diesel can to the intake on the pump. The out put from the pump was routed to the input to the mechanical pump using a two way bayonet fitting. Once all the connections were visually checked i hooked up the pump and pressurized the system. Everything was working great, fuel was flowing from the bleed port, all was good...no it wasn't. I faintly heard the sound of dripping into my drip pan under the truck. Dog gone fuel filter is leaking. Swapped the filter out, still leaking. Pulled the manifold, nothing looked wrong. Re-hooked up everything, still leaked. :evil::evil::evil: At this point, sanity would tell most intelligent mechanics to stop, put everything away and go order parts. Nope, not me. I are a 100% trained military mekanik. I kan fix anyting!!! So (bleep) it ....SAFETY NOTE: DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!! I plugged in the pump, shut off the bleed valve, made sure the drain line was closed and ran for the ignition switch. After three tries, VROOM she started up with a big cloud of Wyoming dust. She's been sitting for almost a year not running at all and that dust gets into everything. Anywway, after letting it run until I could push down the peddal and the squeal went away (another problem, another day) I shut it down and ran for the pump to shut it down. Total run time was about 10 minutes. The longest i got it to run before was 20-30 seconds. Now i know she'll run and run good, I'll backtrack to the tank and find that darn leak so I can have my shop back.

Things left to do: replace shocks
Fix fuel problem
repair window washer fluid tank (hole halfway up the side)
Install new rearview mirror (was in my parts stash. Didn't even know I had it)
Replace rear bumper and pintle (gonna be a while, gotta create a fixture to pick it up IT'S HEAVY!)
Then do the nitnoids...paint, restore the interior...all that fun stuff.

Time for medicine, hands in heap big ouch mode. more later.:driver:
 
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iluvbudwsr

New member
38
1
0
Location
South Alabama
Picked up a can of Line-X to coat the rear cargo area in my M1009 (which is pictured in my avatar), and a sanding block. I also ordered a new fuel pump which cost 26$ including S&H and should be here in the morning. Im hoping the Line-X will also add some sound barrier. I will try and take pictures as the work progresses. Hopefully the weather will cooperate with me.
 

jets1959

Member
594
9
18
Location
Lakewood, WA
This is a post of an on going saga but since i can't find my original postings on the subject, I'll provide a little background and then go into the meat of the last few days. First off before i begin, most of the work over the past days has been one handed. My right hand is pretty non-functional cause it just got fuzed (sp?). I've been going absolutely stir crazy not being able to do anything except watch reruns of old movies. I snuck out to the shop and got busy.

First thing done was the dog head mod. Slight variation that I did was to remove the wires from the plug. Easy to do and makes for two less wires that must be cut and modified. All you do is insert a small screw driver into the face of the plug (where it plugs into the old switch) give it a little twist and it almost falls out. Two wires fit perfect on the male connectors provided with the dog head. I cut the other two and used a one handed wire stripper to strip the other two. Picked out the correct sized yellow connector and poof, done. Drilled an extra hole for the second bolt holding the dog head on its plate (vise works wonders), scrounged up a couple correctly sized bolts with lock washer and reinstalled everything. Total time taken: two hours. Have to think out each step, scrutinize it thoroughly and give it a try. Ended up redoing several tasks more than once but I kept busy and got it done. Pictures are already posted repeatedly so i won't take one unless someone really needs to see it.

Second job is and has been since purchase a recurring fuel deivery problem. I confirmed today that somewhere between the tank and the filter is an air leak. Once the engine shuts down, the fuel drains back into the tank. The truck would start but once the filter fuel was gone, engine shut down every time.

Parts changed included: mechanical pump, fuel filter, fuel sending unit, almost every hose, fuel filter manifold (didn't work, bought the one for a dodge CUCV, slightly different and wont work on a Chevy), two electric diesel fuel pumps (burnt the first one up) assorted wiring, hoses, clamps and that's about it. Most of the hardware (clamps bolts, etc) came from my immense hoard of hardware accumulated over the span of decades worth of yard sales. got almost one of everything. Somethings I didn't know i had.

Before the surgery I set up the new electric pump, a 5 gallon can of clean diesel, fuel hoses and assorted wiring for the pump. the idea was to completely bypass everything except the mechanical pump and filter and see if it would run. Ran out of time and battery juice so today i finally was able to test the idea. Been charging the batteries slowly for the past two days so they had a good solid charge.

The test: I placed the pump so it sat on the body just in front of the front battery. Placed a coffee can next to the rear battery for the filter drain. Cut a 5 +/- foot length of 5/16th fuel hose and ran it from the diesel can to the intake on the pump. The out put from the pump was routed to the input to the mechanical pump using a two way bayonet fitting. Once all the connections were visually checked i hooked up the pump and pressurized the system. Everything was working great, fuel was flowing from the bleed port, all was good...no it wasn't. I faintly heard the sound of dripping into my drip pan under the truck. Dog gone fuel filter is leaking. Swapped the filter out, still leaking. Pulled the manifold, nothing looked wrong. Re-hooked up everything, still leaked. :evil::evil::evil: At this point, sanity would tell most intelligent mechanics to stop, put everything away and go order parts. Nope, not me. I are a 100% trained military mekanik. I kan fix anyting!!! So (bleep) it ....SAFETY NOTE: DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!! I plugged in the pump, shut off the bleed valve, made sure the drain line was closed and ran for the ignition switch. After three tries, VROOM she started up with a big cloud of Wyoming dust. She's been sitting for almost a year not running at all and that dust gets into everything. Anywway, after letting it run until I could push down the peddal and the squeal went away (another problem, another day) I shut it down and ran for the pump to shut it down. Total run time was about 10 minutes. The longest i got it to run before was 20-30 seconds. Now i know she'll run and run good, I'll backtrack to the tank and find that darn leak so I can have my shop back.

Things left to do: replace shocks
Fix fuel problem
repair window washer fluid tank (hole halfway up the side)
Install new rearview mirror (was in my parts stash. Didn't even know I had it)
Replace rear bumper and pintle (gonna be a while, gotta create a fixture to pick it up IT'S HEAVY!)
Then do the nitnoids...paint, restore the interior...all that fun stuff.

Time for medicine, hands in heap big ouch mode. more later.:driver:
Order the tank for a 1984 blazer. The 1986 has the washer pump in the tank.
 
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