What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[TechnoWeenie]

Yes, please check your tire dates...

 

[Assel]

today I finished installing the new parking brake cable and took the CUCV to the TÜV, 15 min before they closed I got in, got the new cable inspected & INSPECTION PASSED without any problems no worries for the next 2 years hopefully

oh yeah, good tires are your life insurance, had one exploding on a CAT Dumptruck this winter, fully loaded with 35tons of shredded asphalt... I was driving through a light curve ...and guess what, in that moment the tire decided to let go, Dumper landed on its side but luckily the cabin compartment stood still level... couldve been worse

 

[Another Ahab]

View attachment 612759View attachment 612760

Yes, please check your tire dates...

I was driving about 70-80 mph once behind a tractor-trailer that had a blow-out and delaminated like that:

- It must have been a good ten foot of snaking heavy rubber flying out there in the road ahead of me

It scared the living ---- out of me, until I slipped past it!

 

[Recovry4x4]

Loaded.the M101A3 and the M1010 on a Hotshot rig and sent them up the road today. Was dark so I hope to gets pics of the load in the AM.

As promised.

 

[antennaclimber]

Went to start the M1009 today, no start completely dead. Found the front battery was dead.
Connected jumper cables and noticed the GEN1 light was on with no key in the ignition.

Got it started and the both voltmeters were low. I have volt meters on the 12 and 24 volt side of the electrical system. The 12 volt side was at 11.6 volts GEN1 light was now off. Turned the engine off and the battery went right down to 5 volts. Thought I had a bad battery.

Disconnected the front battery and connected a good battery in its place. GEN1 light was still on with the ignition off and after starting the engine battery voltage was at 11.7 volts. Looks like the drivers side alternator is bad. Put my hand on it and it was very very hot!

Removed and replaced the alternator now the GEN1 light was off and still did not come on with the key in the run position. Battery voltage was still at 11.7 volts. Hmmmm.

After looking things over, I saw that I forgot to connect the plug with the 2 wires to the alternator!

After connecting all of the wires, the GEN1 light functions properly and the battery voltage was at 12.8 volts and climbing with the engine running. Both voltmeters were now in the proper operating zone.

My advise is, if you own a CUCV, keep a spare alternator handy. This is the second one that has gone bad in the last year.
Karl

 

[marchplumber]

Went to start the M1009 today, no start completely dead. Found the front battery was dead.
Connected jumper cables and noticed the GEN1 light was on with no key in the ignition.

Got it started and the both voltmeters were low. I have volt meters on the 12 and 24 volt side of the electrical system. The 12 volt side was at 11.6 volts GEN1 light was now off. Turned the engine off and the battery went right down to 5 volts. Thought I had a bad battery.

Disconnected the front battery and connected a good battery in its place. GEN1 light was still on with the ignition off and after starting the engine battery voltage was at 11.7 volts. Looks like the drivers side alternator is bad. Put my hand on it and it was very very hot!

Removed and replaced the alternator now the GEN1 light was off and still did not come on with the key in the run position. Battery voltage was still at 11.7 volts. Hmmmm.

After looking things over, I saw that I forgot to connect the plug with the 2 wires to the alternator!

After connecting all of the wires, the GEN1 light functions properly and the battery voltage was at 12.8 volts and climbing with the engine running. Both voltmeters were now in the proper operating zone.

My advise is, if you own a CUCV, keep a spare alternator handy. This is the second one that has gone bad in the last year.
Karl

Great advice! Just changed both of mine, now need smaller belts. Gonna attempt rebuilds on old shells. Figure the new smaller pulleys will spin the alternators a bit quicker too. Put new brake lines on M1009 towards rear too. Used the copper alloy....bit pricey=(

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Took mine for a short drive after finishing up the u joint swap on the front axle. Passenger side gave me more of a headache than I was hoping for. Filled the diff, did a quick alignment and got my batteries back in it. Also trimmed the front of the fenders but need to tackle the rear of the front fenders as it rubbed just pulling out of my driveway.

 

[rsh4364]

Finally got the new, not rebuilt injectors installed. Huge improvement, runs so much smoother. Got them from Fred at Badger Diesel, less than 200$.They are Delphi injectors,.can't wait to see if mpg improves.And only one busted knuckle.

 

[riggermedic]

Glow plugs draw a current at a certain voltage....depending on glow time.

Let's use AC60G since they're popular....

Each draws roughly 9A, so 9 * 8 = 72, so you're looking at about 72A (The 200A I quoted is for the welleman quick start plugs, which can draw ~20A a piece, still a hair less than 200A but I round up when wiring, heh).

So, if we fudge some math, let's say 80A at full tilt...

@ 80A and about 15' (keep in mind, you need to account for the return trip too, not just one way).

To keep losses under 5%, you'd need a 2ga cable.....

Keep in mind, that MOST glow plug systems use TWO batteries, because the current drawn is quite a bit...

Now, with quick glow plugs, current increases quite a bit, almost double... which, again, is where the 200A bit came from....

This is why the factory glow plugs 'suck', they're quick glow, and have no internal temperature limit, whereas the AC60Gs do.... The Wellemans will continue to glow, and swell, and burn themselves up, where the AC60Gs won't....

All the data I have on AC60G and Wellemans could be wrong, but.....


Now, will it work with 10GA? Yes. Will the wire get warm? Yes. Will the glowplugs still glow? Yes.

You will lose a lot of power as heat, resistance will increase, leading to higher line loss, and lower voltage.

What 'works' and what's optimal are usually two different things.

That's like 'minimum requirements' and 'suggested requirements' for playing a computer game....

Yeah, you COULD use a grocery bag to carry water in, but... why?


You CAN use the 10ga that's in there, but I wouldn't.
You CAN use 6ga wire, but I wouldn't.

When talking high current applications, the least voltage drop and lowest resistance you can get reasonably is the way to go. Everything else leads to wasted 'power'.

Also keep in mind that lots of things operate outside their design tolerance without failing immediately. Fuses are one of those things, believe it or not...

Wire has a failure rating that's much higher than its current carrying capability in free air.. Just because a wire can handle 600A before it fails, doesn't mean you use it...

IOTW, you don't see a problem because 'it works', but again, go grab that 10ga or 6ga cable while the glow plugs are glowing, and don't be surprised how warm it is...

That warmth is heat created by resistance...

The reason I ask all this is antenna climber did a post showing the draw at 100 amps 50 per side so I rated my wiring on this. I have circuit breakers for 100, 125, 150, 200 and 250 so I guess I'll see what fits and works. I don't know how to hyperlink other threads, but it is under the Cucv useful threads 2nd under resistor bypass.
Lots of great info here and I really appreciate all the help
i just bought a 1010 with a veritable gremlin nest of issues on top of the common ones so all/any help is always appreciated

 

[usabamaman]

1986==M1009====Installed new AC air filter with foam pre-filter and Fel Pro breather to intake gasket. Checked for oil pan and rear seal leaks. Only a slight dribble from the rear. This is a major improvement. After reading someone's post here on the function of the CDR and oil filler tube cap, I replaced the CDR and installed new screw type clamps on the loose hoses attached to it and the filler tube. I noticed the oil filler cap was sloppy loose from a loose shrunken rubber gasket. Until I can find a replacement cap of this design I did a quick fix by wrapping a strip of plastic grocery bag around the metal flange and secured it with a rubber band. This put pressure on the flange and tightened the gasket. And now no leaks. Pretty amazing improvement from such a minor adjustment. Anyone know where I can buy a new cap like this, I haven't had any luck finding one so far????

 

[cucvrus]

The replacement oil cap is the same as a 1982 Oldsmobile 350 diesel. It is a Stant cap. I do not have the number at the tip of my fingers but it is available at a parts store. No worries. Good luck. I say the rear main seal leaked it will leak again. it has a spot to leak now. It will not heal itself. It is probably the OEM rope style seal and they are notorious for leaking. You need to change it. It is not a real hard job. Just dirty and time consuming for a beginner. You can do it on the ground without a lift. Good Luck. someone will chime in with the Stant part number. Or I will check back and have that for you.

 

[Mg84648]

STANT 10076 Click for more information about this part
2-15/32" Oil Filler Cap (1-5/32" x 2-15/16" Cam Twist) (Only 9 Remaining)
Part Image
$5.83

Rockauto has them

 

[usabamaman]

I will add this oil cap to my next order. Thanks, I would have never found this on my own as it is not listed anywhere correctly for the application.

 

[Cantos]

I modificated the Mil-antenna into a civliantenna for CB-radio.

 

[nyoffroad]

New tires mounted and installed a couple days ago, Bought a cheap set off of evilbay and thought for sure they'd be more square then round. Boy was I surprised! Brand name is WEST LAKE 265/85-16 less than $500 delivered to my door, mounted up and balanced with very little weight and handles GREAT, cut the road noise by half at least! Maybe now I'll fix the radio cause I'll be able to hear it.

 

[riggermedic]

Just bought some parts to restore my M1010

For $40 how did I do?

 

[Another Ahab]

$40 doesn't seem bad.

Where did you find it all?

 

[riggermedic]

Craigslist local pick up

 

[cucvrus]

Crown of Thorns M1009 working again.

Today I took another trip up into the fields to touch up my sound proofing. The firewood was optional. But nothing beats a load of wood and a helper to load it as fast I cut it. I used my utility trailer this week again as I could only get a limited amount in the cargo area of the Crown of Thorns M1009. The fields really dried up nice already this year. i am sure it will get muddy again soon I hope after the planting is done. In a matter of 5 hrs from the field to the home cut and split. Fun Fun. This is all hardwood. Ash , Walnut, Mulberry and Oak. Good stuff. Every year the tree line needs cut back some where it shades the crops and sucks the nutrients out of the soil. This Crown of Thorns M1009 has been in my fleet for 11 years and still has everything original. 125K miles and running strong. I do take a bit notice of the 3:08 gears on some steep hills and off road. But in 4LO 2WD it never phases it. In mud with the trailer it is like dropping anchor at times. Of course I never needed to use 4 LO 2 WD on the road except once. One of my friends has a 2001 F250 7.3 power stroke with a tuner and he was pulling a trailer with my Sons Mr Crusty back from an off road park and broke down/over heated climbing a steep grade about 8 miles long. He overheated and was along the road after passing me out about 10 miles back. I was pulling the trailer loaded with wood and I told him to hook the chain up to the trailer. I pulled the loaded M1009 4 people,the loaded wood trailer and the F250 with the dual axle car trailer and the big lifted M1028 Mr Crusty up that hill in 4 LO 2 WD. I watched the temp gauge go up to 210 and it stayed there the whole time. When I went to pull out to begin the climb while towing the M1009 rear tires made a gripping sound and the rear locked and away I went about 20-25 mph. We got to the top of the hill at I 81 and I disconnected after I had him down the ramp to the highway. This road is PA 901 coming out of Lavelle PA. If you are familiar it is a long drawn out grade. The freind has never lived that down. He still has Fords but he always reminds me when he sees me that my CUCV is time less. I tell him after that pull this thing has a walk in the pasture and will last forever. So far doing good. I just never wanted to start on the body work. It still works and runs great. Why ruin a good thing?

 

[the skull]

Put new brake lines on M1009 towards rear too. Used the copper alloy....bit pricey=(

I used this stuff on mine where I had to bend it to fit. Very nice. I recommend it to
everyone.