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I was driving about 70-80 mph once behind a tractor-trailer that had a blow-out and delaminated like that:
As promised.Loaded.the M101A3 and the M1010 on a Hotshot rig and sent them up the road today. Was dark so I hope to gets pics of the load in the AM.
Great advice! Just changed both of mine, now need smaller belts. Gonna attempt rebuilds on old shells. Figure the new smaller pulleys will spin the alternators a bit quicker too. Put new brake lines on M1009 towards rear too. Used the copper alloy....bit pricey=(Went to start the M1009 today, no start completely dead. Found the front battery was dead.
Connected jumper cables and noticed the GEN1 light was on with no key in the ignition.
Got it started and the both voltmeters were low. I have volt meters on the 12 and 24 volt side of the electrical system. The 12 volt side was at 11.6 volts GEN1 light was now off. Turned the engine off and the battery went right down to 5 volts. Thought I had a bad battery.
Disconnected the front battery and connected a good battery in its place. GEN1 light was still on with the ignition off and after starting the engine battery voltage was at 11.7 volts. Looks like the drivers side alternator is bad. Put my hand on it and it was very very hot!
Removed and replaced the alternator now the GEN1 light was off and still did not come on with the key in the run position. Battery voltage was still at 11.7 volts. Hmmmm.
After looking things over, I saw that I forgot to connect the plug with the 2 wires to the alternator!
After connecting all of the wires, the GEN1 light functions properly and the battery voltage was at 12.8 volts and climbing with the engine running. Both voltmeters were now in the proper operating zone.
My advise is, if you own a CUCV, keep a spare alternator handy. This is the second one that has gone bad in the last year.
Karl
The reason I ask all this is antenna climber did a post showing the draw at 100 amps 50 per side so I rated my wiring on this. I have circuit breakers for 100, 125, 150, 200 and 250 so I guess I'll see what fits and works. I don't know how to hyperlink other threads, but it is under the Cucv useful threads 2nd under resistor bypass.Glow plugs draw a current at a certain voltage....depending on glow time.
Let's use AC60G since they're popular....
Each draws roughly 9A, so 9 * 8 = 72, so you're looking at about 72A (The 200A I quoted is for the welleman quick start plugs, which can draw ~20A a piece, still a hair less than 200A but I round up when wiring, heh).
So, if we fudge some math, let's say 80A at full tilt...
@ 80A and about 15' (keep in mind, you need to account for the return trip too, not just one way).
To keep losses under 5%, you'd need a 2ga cable.....
Keep in mind, that MOST glow plug systems use TWO batteries, because the current drawn is quite a bit...
Now, with quick glow plugs, current increases quite a bit, almost double... which, again, is where the 200A bit came from....
This is why the factory glow plugs 'suck', they're quick glow, and have no internal temperature limit, whereas the AC60Gs do.... The Wellemans will continue to glow, and swell, and burn themselves up, where the AC60Gs won't....
All the data I have on AC60G and Wellemans could be wrong, but.....
Now, will it work with 10GA? Yes. Will the wire get warm? Yes. Will the glowplugs still glow? Yes.
You will lose a lot of power as heat, resistance will increase, leading to higher line loss, and lower voltage.
What 'works' and what's optimal are usually two different things.
That's like 'minimum requirements' and 'suggested requirements' for playing a computer game....
Yeah, you COULD use a grocery bag to carry water in, but... why?
You CAN use the 10ga that's in there, but I wouldn't.
You CAN use 6ga wire, but I wouldn't.
When talking high current applications, the least voltage drop and lowest resistance you can get reasonably is the way to go. Everything else leads to wasted 'power'.
Also keep in mind that lots of things operate outside their design tolerance without failing immediately. Fuses are one of those things, believe it or not...
Wire has a failure rating that's much higher than its current carrying capability in free air.. Just because a wire can handle 600A before it fails, doesn't mean you use it...
IOTW, you don't see a problem because 'it works', but again, go grab that 10ga or 6ga cable while the glow plugs are glowing, and don't be surprised how warm it is...
That warmth is heat created by resistance...
Put new brake lines on M1009 towards rear too. Used the copper alloy....bit pricey=(