What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[AFGVET]

I needed to do both the radiator and a harmonic balancer. I suspected that the rubber in that 40 year old stock harmonic balancer if not shot would let go at the worst possible moment. So I decided on doing a Fluidampr.
The radiator was rotted out completely on the lower half. I got a radiator from Summit, one of their Classic OEM. It ran me over $500. (rebuilding the old one was going to be over that).
Well Caveat Emptor. The first problem was that the engine oil cooling lines wouldn't screw in. The was a small slip of paper in the radiator's box mentioning something about Summit not covering stripped threads. So I pulled out the radiator and took a close look at the fitting in the radiator's side tank. The bums that made it in Mexico (yes it was made in Mexico, not hyperbole) did not completely cut threads in it. I took first to a radiator shop and they referred me to their machinist, but while he examined it and mentioned that the oil cooler's construction (inside the radiator) was of a lesser quality than the original. (something about barrel vs. plate). -well I can always put in an auxiliary cooler if its a problem, right?-
Machinist said the female fitting in the radiator was "rough" and not really cut at all for any fitting. Additionally, it was not deep enough to ensure the male fitting would seat deep enough. This was fixed by using a steel intermediate fitting and turning it to fit.

The Fluidampr went right in with no problems.
I bolted up the pulleys and Lo and behold the power steering pump was being a difficult Son-of-a-Cuss (see no profanities for all you thin-skinned word police).
Yes there is that GM claw tool (thexton 383) for this, but I didn't have it.
I watched this video and found it very helpful. (especially that part about the hidden 14mm bolt)
I devised a method using a ratchet strap to pull the pump in the correct direction. It worked pretty well.

My wife came out and I watched as I turned it a few times. With no overt sounds of strike at the flywheel, I started her up.
She actually asked what I had done because it was much smoother and quieter.

(I tried to sequence the photos, but I couldn't figure out how)

 

[2INSANE]

New Year’s Day a group of 14 of us went to the top of Flathead pass during a snow storm. 1/2 of us got stuck. We all creeped, winched, dug and pulled each other to the top. A few close calls with roll overs or sliding off the mountain and had only one Jeep break down. After the trail ride was over, on the way home my front differential new Yukon 5.13 gear blew. Other then that, that’s all I’ve done so far.

 

[87cr250r]

Check out a product called Daubert Nox-Rust 121 B. It's supposed to be the self-healing wax coating GM uses on some of their truck frames. I'm in California so I can't tell you how well it works but it looks good and the price isn't bad. It can be applied over other coatings and requires minimal prep. It's a newer technology based on gelled calcium sulfonate.

 

[Tinstar]

After the trail ride was over, on the way home my front differential new Yukon 5.13 gear blew.

I have heard about quite a number of the Yukons parts failing.

I just bought an Eaton locker for my 98 Suburban.
Stayed away from Yukon parts due to so many failing

 

[TechnoWeenie]

I have heard about quite a number of the Yukons parts failing.

I just bought an Eaton locker for my 98 Suburban.
Stayed away from Yukon parts due to so many failing

Yukon is local to me. They have a very solid reputation here.

Some of their stuff is imported, though.

 

[latvius]

Replaced the harmonic balancer, pulley and front seal. The pulley was wobbling and I wasn't sure which was the culprit before I took it apart so I bought both. Other than old the HB looked pretty good but the pulley looks crooked around the rung that mates with the HB, it's hard to see in the pic but I think that was my problem. I had to make a redneck seal installation tool wood was faster to make and got the job done installing the front seal. I had bought a new bolt but it was 2.5 times as long as the original so I ended up using it with a boat load of washer as the installation tool. Then I used a chain to keep it from turning while I got the torque wrench on it.

 

[WWRD99]

Replaced the harmonic balancer, pulley and front seal. The pulley was wobbling and I wasn't sure which was the culprit before I took it apart so I bought both. Other than old the HB looked pretty good but the pulley looks crooked around the rung that mates with the HB, it's hard to see in the pic but I think that was my problem. I had to make a redneck seal installation tool wood was faster to make and got the job done installing the front seal. I had bought a new bolt but it was 2.5 times as long as the original so I ended up using it with a boat load of washer as the installation tool. Then I used a chain to keep it from turning while I got the torque wrench on it.
View attachment 938904View attachment 938905View attachment 938907View attachment 938908View attachment 938909

Where'd you find the front pulley?

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[latvius]

Where'd you find the front pulley?

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Ebay many years ago, it was a DRMO part since the box actually had DRMO written on it lol.

 

[WWRD99]

Ebay many years ago, it was a DRMO part since the box actually had DRMO written on it lol.

Interesting. I sell them on eBay in the original box lol. Still have about 50 left!

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[latvius]

Interesting. I sell them on eBay in the original box lol. Still have about 50 left!

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

HAHA maybe it was you, either the HB or the pulley was DRMO not sure which now that I think about it.

 

[AFGVET]

I needed to do both the radiator and a harmonic balancer. I suspected that the rubber in that 40 year old stock harmonic balancer if not shot would let go at the worst possible moment. So I decided on doing a Fluidampr.
The radiator was rotted out completely on the lower half. I got a radiator from Summit, one of their Classic OEM. It ran me over $500. (rebuilding the old one was going to be over that).
Well Caveat Emptor. The first problem was that the engine oil cooling lines wouldn't screw in. The was a small slip of paper in the radiator's box mentioning something about Summit not covering stripped threads. So I pulled out the radiator and took a close look at the fitting in the radiator's side tank. The bums that made it in Mexico (yes it was made in Mexico, not hyperbole) did not completely cut threads in it. I took first to a radiator shop and they referred me to their machinist, but while he examined it and mentioned that the oil cooler's construction (inside the radiator) was of a lesser quality than the original. (something about barrel vs. plate). -well I can always put in an auxiliary cooler if its a problem, right?-
Machinist said the female fitting in the radiator was "rough" and not really cut at all for any fitting. Additionally, it was not deep enough to ensure the male fitting would seat deep enough. This was fixed by using a steel intermediate fitting and turning it to fit.

The Fluidampr went right in with no problems.
I bolted up the pulleys and Lo and behold the power steering pump was being a difficult Son-of-a-Cuss (see no profanities for all you thin-skinned word police).
Yes there is that GM claw tool (thexton 383) for this, but I didn't have it.
I watched this video and found it very helpful. (especially that part about the hidden 14mm bolt)
I devised a method using a ratchet strap to pull the pump in the correct direction. It worked pretty well.

My wife came out and I watched as I turned it a few times. With no overt sounds of strike at the flywheel, I started her up.
She actually asked what I had done because it was much smoother and quieter.

(I tried to sequence the photos, but I couldn't figure out how)View attachment 938529View attachment 938530View attachment 938532View attachment 938533View attachment 938534View attachment 938535View attachment 938536View attachment 938537View attachment 938538View attachment 938539View attachment 938540View attachment 938541View attachment 938542

Additional photos: 15JAN2025
This (the bolt that the blue min-flashlight is pointing at above this line) is just one of the bolts that needs to be loosened to tighten the PS pump belt.
The other one is best accessed from underneath.
See the below photosYou can actually see it from the top but access is easier from underneath.

 

[latvius]

Is it 3 bolts/nuts to loosen or 4?

 

[AFGVET]

4 spots to loosen, per the TM

DO NOT pry on power steering pump (5) reservoir or pull on filler neck when
rotating power steering pump, Failure to follow this caution may result in
damage to power steering pump.

NOTE: the numbers in parenthesis correspond to the parts in the exploded view
• If removing belt (1), perform step 1.
• If removing power steering pump (5), perform steps 1-3.
1. Loosen adjusting nut (2) and adjusting bolts (7 and 12).
2. Rotate power steering pump (5) to
loosen belt (1).
3. Remove belt from pulley (14), Discard belt if worn or damaged.

(Additionally) You could try loosening mounting nut (3)

 

[latvius]

I mighta forgot about that #7 bolt, thx for the diagram

 

[latvius]

New battery holders and changed the transfer case fluid

 

[Cucvnut]

Put new tires on the M1008

 

[latvius]

Put new tires on the M1008 View attachment 939428

What size/kind?

 

[CARC686]

@Cucvnut Engineered Vintage mount? What winch?

 

[latvius]

Replaced drivers side mirror glass, in my search on how to do this I found that you can adjust the tension of the mirror so it stays where you put it. Just remove the cover and you can tighten the bolt.
The glass went in fine I have it a lil off center if it bugs me enough I'll buy another one and do it again. I also found these mini rounds that use suction instead of adhesive and they swivel.
I also r&r the air filter and painted the air cleaner lid

 

[latvius]

Got a new coolant overflow bottle today. Bad thing is the part where the bolt goes through is for a different holdown bracket. So I got out the heatgun and modified it, not perfect but it works. I also painted the "Full" level line since you can't usually see it when installed.