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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Jonestown Pennsylvania
001.jpg002.jpg003.jpg004.jpg005.jpg006.jpg007.jpg008.jpg009.jpgAfter having the door close on my shins very hard this morning I decided it was time to change the upper door hinge torque rod. It was an easy task and will save my shins from a direct hit of the swinging closed door. I keep the hinges so well lubed that I could not keep the door in the open position unless it was held there. The torque rod cracked and quit working on Monday. That was long enough. The right door has the same issue. Tomorrow is another day. This is the first truck I have ever seen this issue with. Thank youi for looking and have a nice day.
 

rsh4364

Active member
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15
38
Location
greensprings ,ohio
86 1009.vac. modulator leaking fluid onto front driveshaft,hard late shifts.Replaced with A.Z.#mv100,shifts softened up but still shifted late.Adjusted vac.regulator on I.P. towards firewall.Much better now.Also it has a factory trans.pan with a drainplug in it,appears factory.My 85 1009 has no drainplug.Also that MV100 modulator is a red stripe modulator.
 
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CUCVLOVER

Active member
I cleaned the inside of the green machine. I put amour all on the seat, dash, column, doors, and I even pulled the plastic kick panels and cleaned them. Then I pulled some of the door weather seal, and cleaned the channel that's under the rubber.
I cleaned under the floor mat and spotted some old rust bubbles under the paint, but they don't look like they are getting worse.

I did find this. Do you guys know what its for???
Thanks
 

Attachments

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Jonestown Pennsylvania
That is to designed wear a hole thru the new floor mat and also collect dirt and moisture so it can rust the floor thru. GM's planned obsolescence. Take a small grinder and cut the welds and do away with that out dated useless attachment.:p
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
German:
That seems stupid to me that they put the mounts there.

Cucvnut:
I hear you about cutting it off. It has worn out my floor mat.


Does that plate have anything to do with the large screws farther up toward the fire wall??

Thanks.
 

RobM36A2

Member
302
9
18
Location
The Netherlands
Changed the belts on the M1028.

Pulled them off, got to the local parts store, got replacements and put the new ones back on.
After a few times of tightening and test running I believe the tension is good.
The drivers side looks like it's flapping around, but the tension on it is correct.

Old vs new.
Belts.jpg
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
They do flap ugly when it is idling. Just reach over and give it a little throttle and the flapping goes away. Do you have good adjustment left on the alternator belts? Or are they just about out of adjustment? I just put new belts on my M1009 Mule and used different sizes and went to the 1/2" wide belt on the #1 alternator. I am very happy with the adjustment still left on the belt.
 

RobM36A2

Member
302
9
18
Location
The Netherlands
They do flap ugly when it is idling. Just reach over and give it a little throttle and the flapping goes away. Do you have good adjustment left on the alternator belts? Or are they just about out of adjustment? I just put new belts on my M1009 Mule and used different sizes and went to the 1/2" wide belt on the #1 alternator. I am very happy with the adjustment still left on the belt.
Thanks, I was getting worried about the flapping.
About the adjustment, you mean the adjustment room for the tension? Than there is a lot of room left in the slots.
To tension the belts, I did have some trouble. It's not easy to keep tension on the belt and tighten the nut at the same time.
No soldier B in reach, but I managed.
The width is the same, they are not so deep on the pully's like the old belts.
 

german m1008

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
883
1,302
93
Location
Rhein-Main Area, Germany
Changed the belts on the M1028.

Pulled them off, got to the local parts store, got replacements and put the new ones back on.
After a few times of tightening and test running I believe the tension is good.
The drivers side looks like it's flapping around, but the tension on it is correct.

Old vs new.
View attachment 565310
The belt on my M1008 is also flapping.
For Safety someone else (or original ?) mounted a piece of sheet metal under the top water hose of the radiator over the belt.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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9,635
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
You also need the front axle vent and the fan shroud bracket fastened properly. I just put these belts on my M1009 the Mule.

They worked perfect for me. And from the looks of that belt pictured you need that belt replaced on Generator 1.
I used Gates belts XL 7475, XL 7450, XL 9580 green stripe. That is a 1/2" belt and rides in the pulley a little higher on Generator 1 just like the OEM belts did. I have a whole lot of adjustment left.
I always put the power steering and the drivers side Generator 1 alternator belt on and then tighten and adjust the power steering belt and then tighten the left Generator 1 belt. It works best that way takes some of the slop out of the Generator 1 belt from the get go. I am not saying it will work for everybody but it always works for me. The 1/2" belt has lots of meat and really rides nice in the pulleys. Have a nice day and thank you for looking.
 
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