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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
[h=3]Water vapor[edit][/h]Vehicle exhaust contains much water vapor. There has been research into ways that troops in deserts can recover drinkable water from their vehicles' exhaust gases. [SUP][37[/SUP]

[SUP]The Gopher is down there filling his canteen.
[/SUP]A new technology being tested in 2016 has been created by Air Ink which collects carbon particles using a "Kaalink" cylindrical device that is retrofitted into a vehicle's exhaust system, after processing to remove heavy metals and carcinogens, the company plans to use the carbon to make ink.[SUP][

Or he will be down these printing newspapers. [/SUP]
 

Bighorn

New member
445
8
0
Location
N/A
I know what’s he’s doing and it isn’t collecting water or printing newspapers LOL!!
He's sleeping.
He's not sleeping he's dead!
Nah, he's pining for the fjords.
(dead parrot sketch- Monty Python)

Of course, the 6.2 is so efficient, it may take a while.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,290
1,776
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Been working ok so far.
Lot cheaper than the smoke bombs I usually use.
About the same elimination rate.

Timed out JetA-1 fueling hose works great!!
 

Mg84648

Member
201
6
18
Location
Cumming, Ga
IMG_1849.jpg
Had my driveshaft redone. One of my shaft bearing caps just fell out while i was removing the shaft. It had .020 radial play so it was shot. Took it to a drive line place near the airport and they cut off the bad yoke, welded on a new one, pressed in new bearings, balanced and painted it for $125. Super happy with the results. The welded end is closest to the camera, BTW.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
4,556
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
View attachment 703614
Had my driveshaft redone. One of my shaft bearing caps just fell out while i was removing the shaft. It had .020 radial play so it was shot. Took it to a drive line place near the airport and they cut off the bad yoke, welded on a new one, pressed in new bearings, balanced and painted it for $125. Super happy with the results. The welded end is closest to the camera, BTW.
Sounds like a bargain. [thumbzup]
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Another note/issue, how can I get a jump off if needed, out on the road by 12 volt vehicle, wouldn't want to blow someone's alternator
You'd have to connect to one of your batteries at a time, which is not ideal since only one will get a boost, then the other. But while it takes longer, it beats walking.

Or, you might luck out and get two motorists to help, each jumping to one of your batteries.
 

cucvmule

collector of stuff
1,155
591
113
Location
Crystal City Mo
View attachment 703614
Had my driveshaft redone. One of my shaft bearing caps just fell out while i was removing the shaft. It had .020 radial play so it was shot. Took it to a drive line place near the airport and they cut off the bad yoke, welded on a new one, pressed in new bearings, balanced and painted it for $125. Super happy with the results. The welded end is closest to the camera, BTW.

Mg84648, that is one repair or maintenance area, the propeller shaft that gets overlooked and abused. That is one assembly that when repaired makes you feel great about catching the problem before carnage happens.

Did the new universal joints come with grease fittings? Now part of routine maintenance schedule.:-D
 

Bighorn

New member
445
8
0
Location
N/A
I dodged a bullet and solved a mystery today.
Last night while I was wheeling my M1009 with the new 3.73 gear ratio, I noticed the headlights flicker at random times.
I got out and began to check grounds and connections.
Still, a flicker every once in a while.
"I'll have to check that out tomorrow in daylight" I thought and continued on my way back to the lodge.
This afternoon, after I got the Thiokol snowcat rewire project done, I finally had time to dig into my m1009.
I cleaned all the grounds.
Replaced the ones that were sheet metal screws with bolts and lock washers, taking my time..
Then I saw this!
View attachment 703684
I know for a fact, that those terminals were pristine recently.
I looked up at the hood above and saw this;
View attachment 703685

Yea, those are holes in the inside metal of the hood.. burnt holes!
The previous owner had relocated the batteries and he mentioned that he had to replace a brand new one under warranty, right before he sold me the truck.
I suspect he was getting an intermittent short across the #1 battery positive but when i bought the truck the damage was invisible behind the hood insulation blanket he had added.
I have no doubt he had no knowledge of the problem.

When I went wheeling around bald mountain, the flex between body panels and my hood caused the positive terminal to make occasional contact with the hood.. effectively arc welding, and that was the cause of the strange dimming flicker of the headlights.

A cautionary tale for anyone buying a modified rig or modifying their own.
That was probably the reason those GM engineers oriented the batteries the way they did in the first place.
I am just glad I found it before my rig burned to the ground.
By clearancing the metal in the area it was burnt and re-orienting the battery terminals, I have corrected the problem.
I used a blob of plumbers putty; a clay like substance, on top of the terminals to see if the hood comes close enough to squash the putty and therefore potentially cause a short.
Additionally I added a thick piece of rubber insulation over the positive terminal just in case.
Whew!
That was lucky.
 

Bighorn

New member
445
8
0
Location
N/A
Basically that means that there really is a reason for fiberglass hoods to exist. Whoda thunk?
In this case, it was moving that front battery from it's stock location back to reside parallel to the rear battery.
The slope of the hood clears the rear battery by inches but was nearly in contact with the front battery terminal.
I bought the truck in Oregon and drove it home to Wyoming.
But I only started wheeling it offroad recently.
The additional flex created by 33 inch tires probably contributed.
It wasn't like I was railing along at speed.
I was creeping in low range about 3 mph.
I should know better.
It all looked so nice and the battery tray had been done along with an LMC headlight box.. I made the mistake of getting complacent and trusting someone elses work.
My fault.
Lucky it is just a few holes on the inner sheet metal of the hood and not through the hood or worse.
I am a dummy.
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
I dodged a bullet and solved a mystery today.
Last night while I was wheeling my M1009 with the new 3.73 gear ratio, I noticed the headlights flicker at random times.
I got out and began to check grounds and connections.
Still, a flicker every once in a while.
"I'll have to check that out tomorrow in daylight" I thought and continued on my way back to the lodge.
This afternoon, after I got the Thiokol snowcat rewire project done, I finally had time to dig into my m1009.
I cleaned all the grounds.
Replaced the ones that were sheet metal screws with bolts and lock washers, taking my time..
Then I saw this!
View attachment 703684
I know for a fact, that those terminals were pristine recently.
I looked up at the hood above and saw this;
View attachment 703685

Yea, those are holes in the inside metal of the hood.. burnt holes!
The previous owner had relocated the batteries and he mentioned that he had to replace a brand new one under warranty, right before he sold me the truck.
I suspect he was getting an intermittent short across the #1 battery positive but when i bought the truck the damage was invisible behind the hood insulation blanket he had added.
I have no doubt he had no knowledge of the problem.

When I went wheeling around bald mountain, the flex between body panels and my hood caused the positive terminal to make occasional contact with the hood.. effectively arc welding, and that was the cause of the strange dimming flicker of the headlights.

A cautionary tale for anyone buying a modified rig or modifying their own.
That was probably the reason those GM engineers oriented the batteries the way they did in the first place.
I am just glad I found it before my rig burned to the ground.
By clearancing the metal in the area it was burnt and re-orienting the battery terminals, I have corrected the problem.
I used a blob of plumbers putty; a clay like substance, on top of the terminals to see if the hood comes close enough to squash the putty and therefore potentially cause a short.
Additionally I added a thick piece of rubber insulation over the positive terminal just in case.
Whew!
That was lucky.

I have pizza boxes covering both my batteries
 
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