What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[Tinstar]

Like to see a pic of that. Considering one for my junk.

I have one also. Can’t find pics now.
Very well made product and easy to install.
It’s identical to the original 1984 design.
It is OD in color and looks great.

I don’t use the bottom spring loops.
Just tuck bottom behind bumper and works great.
It fits nice and snug.

Very easy to take off and reinstall as needed.
Fold up and store behind seat.
No rolling required.
Really cold temps headed this way and I will put it back on today.

It is worth every penny

 

[Rutjes]

Stripped the 6.5 front.



Fuel pump (DB4) is coming out next to make place for the 6.2's DB2. Ordered a FlowKooler water pump. Not going to re-use the one from the 6.2.

Upon closer inspection, my alternators seem to be originals.

 

[ralbelt]

Been cleaning up the electrical on the M1009. Removed the Dixie horns and all the wiring that went with them. Tested the glow plugs and the push button to activate them. Took out about 20 feet of extra wire and cable the PO had installed. Pulled the instrument cluster cleaned up connections and found the 2 small copper spades At the main cluster plug distorted, they are for the gen1 light. I’m thinking of taking it to a local computer shop and see if they can repair it. The engine starts up fine, no smoke, sounds good moves and stops. It’s been sitting in a field for 5 years.

 

[KI4FKW]

For those following my squealing belt / charging issue thread....I fixed it.

After two days of troubleshooting (physically tracing all related circuits, cleaning every connector involved, rebuilding the alternator, and hating GM and the Army) I found that two wires on the back of GEN 2 never reached their destinations and were cut and capped off. Fixed them and boom. Two working and charging alternators.

I also got my trailer ball and hitch for the receiver, finally. The whole point of this truck is to tow my tractor - which I've yet to do.

 

[rustystud]

For those following my squealing belt / charging issue thread....I fixed it.

After two days of troubleshooting (physically tracing all related circuits, cleaning every connector involved, rebuilding the alternator, and hating GM and the Army) I found that two wires on the back of GEN 2 never reached their destinations and were cut and capped off. Fixed them and boom. Two working and charging alternators.

I also got my trailer ball and hitch for the receiver, finally. The whole point of this truck is to tow my tractor - which I've yet to do.

Glad you found the problem. Troubleshooting electrical issues was the bane of my mechanical career ! I would rather remove four brace rods then troubleshoot electrical issues !
There was this one bus that had an intermittent problem. The mechanic who got the job ended up tearing the bus apart from front to back ! It was a 60ft bus ! After two weeks he was test driving it to see if the latest fix was working when another mechanic who was along say a spark on the rear electrical panel. He tightened the connection and the bus was fixed ! Two weeks to tear down and another week to put it back together for a stupid loose connection !!!!

 

[Tinstar]

Glad you found the issue.

While chasing electrical problems is not fun, you also learn a great deal doing it.
How components work together and why.
Where they are and the best/easiest way to access and replace/repair it.
How to use a DMM and to understand the readings it’s showing.
Etc. Etc.

Luckily there’s a lot of guys here who have already dealt with just about every electrical issue on these CUCVs.
The colored schematics and pictures of components in the CUCV stickies are invaluable.

I’m still learning, but it’s not as intimidating now.

 

[KI4FKW]

I have certainly learned a lot. Not only about the truck, but the components, as you said.

 

[emeralcove]

My electrical problem on my M1009 was my right turn signal indicator would come on with the headlights and stay on. The turn signal worked as normal and the indicator flashed normally as well but it just bugged me to see that indicator light on with the head lights. Finally found the problem, a metal piece of the lamp socket had broken off inside and was shorted across the running light contact, replaced the socket and problem gone.
As to the flexible plastic circuit sheet for the instrument cluster, mine was getting really bad due to its life in the Nevada desert (Nellis AFB), I ordered a replacement from one of the Chevy square body truck vendors. So far it has held up fine, that was about 4 years ago.

 

[KI4FKW]

I'm not convinced that I couldn't build my own printed circuit. Mine is getting pretty hard to connect and disconnect without bending all of the tabs by the plug.

 

[rustystud]

My electrical problem on my M1009 was my right turn signal indicator would come on with the headlights and stay on. The turn signal worked as normal and the indicator flashed normally as well but it just bugged me to see that indicator light on with the head lights. Finally found the problem, a metal piece of the lamp socket had broken off inside and was shorted across the running light contact, replaced the socket and problem gone.
As to the flexible plastic circuit sheet for the instrument cluster, mine was getting really bad due to its life in the Nevada desert (Nellis AFB), I ordered a replacement from one of the Chevy square body truck vendors. So far it has held up fine, that was about 4 years ago.

That turn signal bulb problem is very common on all the 1980's Chevy trucks. I replaced all mine a few years ago. Same thing. Corroded connection came off.

 

[emeralcove]

KI4FKW, You may be able to build one, but unless you can do so for less than $70.00 it may be easier and faster to purchase one from LMC Truck or a similar vendor. If you have the skill set to fabricate your own flexible circuit "board" you time is probably worth far more than you can save on that item, that being said, the fact that you could is pretty cool. Either way I hope you find success.

 

[wbdodgeiv]

I recently repaired a patch for a beacon penetration. FYI: don't use a dinner plate patch for three small holes, and don't use flux core to make leaky weld buggers, all while making huge dents resulting from kneeling on the roof.



One of the numerous electrical problems I have with my M1009 was a gen 2 light that never lit. Lots of ohm meter work later I found a broken trace on the circuit film last night. Now my gen 2 light works, still no charging until I rebuild the alternator though.



Next up, un-hot wiring the service light switch. Someone ran a random 12v wire, spliced with just twisted wires, to the service switch output. The service switch input doesn't have power ... more meter work ahead of me.

 

[Rutjes]

While at work I got a chance to fix the broken alternator bracket.



Also figured out why it broke. Someone left out the spacer shown in the following illustration.

 

[cucvrus]

While at work I got a chance to fix the broken alternator bracket.

View attachment 752548View attachment 752549View attachment 752550

Also figured out why it broke. Someone left out the spacer shown in the following illustration.

I made one from a little piece of pipe. I measured it and cut it to length. Worked perfect. I bought the last long bolt from a GM dealer about 15 years ago. I had some made a few years back and used them on the M1010's I made plow pick up trucks out of. View attachment 752551

I made one from a little piece of pipe. I measured it and cut it to length. Worked perfect. I bought the last long bolt from a GM dealer about 15 years ago. I had some made a few years back and used them on the M1010's I made plow pick up trucks out of.​

 

[SSGTUSMC]

Well last night I lost all lights in the rear. I traced all the wires, connections and grounds. Turned out to be the ground connection on each taillight. I spliced and soldered new wires and ran the grounds to the frame. Good as new! No I have all working rear lights.

Tomorrow I will be installing new steering linkage and alignment along with tire rotation, rear diff seal, gear oil change and engine oil change!!! Also I have a 24v solar panel charging system from Humvee mil surplus to install. My on board 24v "Battery Tender" plug in charger kicked the bucket..... Was a good piece of gear for 3 years.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[emeralcove]

Grounds are the bane of automotive electrical, the steel frame and body conducts electricity fine but rust and corrosion does not. I have started to add a "home run" ground wire to the battery negative post so the frame/body is redundant, not bypassed. Soldered connections are much more corrosion resistant. Since moving to the Pacific Northwest I have been learning a lot about wet climates and bad grounds, something I did not encounter much in the Southwest.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Paint piercing washers are a plus too.

 

[rustystud]

Grounds are the bane of automotive electrical, the steel frame and body conducts electricity fine but rust and corrosion does not. I have started to add a "home run" ground wire to the battery negative post so the frame/body is redundant, not bypassed. Soldered connections are much more corrosion resistant. Since moving to the Pacific Northwest I have been learning a lot about wet climates and bad grounds, something I did not encounter much in the Southwest.

Yep. You learn fast about proper grounding up here. I have run individual grounds to each of my body panels and frame and dash. All connect back to the battery. I got that idea from working on our buses here. They all have "ground bars" throughout the frame. That way any electrical component has a pathway straight to the batteries. The ground bars are solid brass with stainless set screws.

 

[Swfb]

I replaced the rear brakelines and hose and while doing that I found out the proportion valve is broken.

I have been searching for a part nr and could not find it.
Is there a replacement part for the original?

For now I have connected the line directly to the hose.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

No replacement parts. OK to bypass, just might lock rears more, especially in panic stops, and when wet

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk