What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[Mullaney]

Didnt post for a long time, was too busy with other things, but I still have the M1009 and use it off salt-season got her running on saturday, been sitting for 5 months, that was kind of a long winter, but not very much snow...also short video of the start

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Looking Good!
Sounded nice as it came to life after a long winter's nap.
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[vanaisa]

Well, without words NB: u-joints are factory original...

 

[Keith_J]

Well, without words NB: u-joints are factory original...

View attachment 865147

Crusty. Use quality parts, I have been there many times because of cheap parts.

 

[vanaisa]

I bought Moog non-greasables. Should last another 50k miles?
Next step is front shaft, there is also small play on front u-joint.

 

[Mainsail]

Drove to work in the rain yesterday, which was much more sporty given the wiper blade isn't touching the glass in the middle which puts an unwiped streak at eye level... and it's dark out.

After work it was still raining, so went straight to the O'rielly auto parts store in town. So.... when did wiper blades start costing $26 each? Most of them don't have the bayonet connector, some may but you'll need to open the packaging to find out, and others do, but seriously, $26 each? I was about to just suck it up and pay, but decided to try Napa a mile farther down the road... in the rain.

Walked in the Napa and right there by the door are 16" wiper blades with the bayonet connector already installed, and they're $7.50. Walked out and had them on the truck in two minutes tops.

 

[Keith_J]

I bought Moog non-greasables. Should last another 50k miles?
Next step is front shaft, there is also small play on front u-joint.

Should be quality. I always had issues getting grease to all 4 cups, the ones that fail were always dry. I even bought a quality press as I was doing it so often. Managed to find Spicer joints and no more failed joints.

 

[vanaisa]

Yes, same here. Thats why i went to non-geasables.
This old factory plastic/nylon injected lock was tough!

 

[WWRD99]

Drove to work in the rain yesterday, which was much more sporty given the wiper blade isn't touching the glass in the middle which puts an unwiped streak at eye level... and it's dark out.

After work it was still raining, so went straight to the O'rielly auto parts store in town. So.... when did wiper blades start costing $26 each? Most of them don't have the bayonet connector, some may but you'll need to open the packaging to find out, and others do, but seriously, $26 each? I was about to just suck it up and pay, but decided to try Napa a mile farther down the road... in the rain.

Walked in the Napa and right there by the door are 16" wiper blades with the bayonet connector already installed, and they're $7.50. Walked out and had them on the truck in two minutes tops.

I've been having trouble with the plastic connector breaking...mine only have a few rains on them and their falling off already...do they make metal ones anymore!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[Michael]

I've been having trouble with the plastic connector breaking...mine only have a few rains on them and their falling off already...do they make metal ones anymore!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I just replaced mine that saw no use in the rain at all. Just fell off in the driveway. I to went to O'rielly and walked out because all except the over $30 made in USA trico were made in China. I ended up with Autozone's cheepest at 8 each. At least they were made in Mexico.

 

[WWRD99]

I just replaced mine that saw no use in the rain at all. Just fell off in the driveway. I to went to O'rielly and walked out because all except the over $30 made in USA trico were made in China. I ended up with Autozone's cheepest at 8 each. At least they were made in Mexico.

Yeah they are expensive and cheap...was at a big swap meet today looking for long stainless used ones I could swap the blades out of...I couldn't find any long ones though...I am using the 22 inch size.

 

[KallyLC]

Not really done anything 'to' it, but I don't know if we have a general pics thread or forum anywhere, so please excuse if this is in the wrong place.

Took the 1008 to Norfolk this past weekend for a meetup with my re-enactment group at a tank museum. The truck will be part of our display this year so we had a little private get-together to mock up our camp to see what works and what doesn't.

Turns out the truck makes a very good flag pole, and once the canvas is on it we'll stuff it full of radios and use it to represent a comms truck.



The truck handled the journey very well, but my portable radio broke so all I had to listen to was the troop seats vibrating themselves to peices in the back. once the cargo top is done they're due for some attention next, I think. Really need some lock washers or nyloc nuts on some of the bolts holding the slats down.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Not really done anything 'to' it, but I don't know if we have a general pics thread or forum anywhere, so please excuse if this is in the wrong place.

Took the 1008 to Norfolk this past weekend for a meetup with my re-enactment group at a tank museum. The truck will be part of our display this year so we had a little private get-together to mock up our camp to see what works and what doesn't.

Turns out the truck makes a very good flag pole, and once the canvas is on it we'll stuff it full of radios and use it to represent a comms truck.

View attachment 866462View attachment 866463

The truck handled the journey very well, but my portable radio broke so all I had to listen to was the troop seats vibrating themselves to peices in the back. once the cargo top is done they're due for some attention next, I think. Really need some lock washers or nyloc nuts on some of the bolts holding the slats down.

U.S. Flag goes on the right...and other flags should be below it...

 

[KallyLC]

I did actually wonder if there was a 'correct' side to mount it as I was affixing it, good to know for future reference.

Is it always the vehicle's right, or the viewer's right? If it was viewed from the front it would be on the right.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

I did actually wonder if there was a 'correct' side to mount it as I was affixing it, good to know for future reference.

Is it always the vehicle's right, or the viewer's right? If it was viewed from the front it would be on the right.

'on its own right'.... flag always marches forward... so, stars forward, on the right side of the vehicle, as if you're driving it.

 

[KallyLC]

I finished off my Air Force plates and the light bar the other weekend, so it was finally time to paint over the Army markings on the tailgate and bumpers to get the M1008 looking like an Air Force truck again. The markings weren't original and were added on by the previous owner, so no history was erased during this process.



I have some doubts about the origins of the truck now, as it has an Air Force serial number in the door, but the Air Force don't use the delineator squares and the only marking I was able to find under the paint on the lower part of the tailgate was a faint 'HQ', which doesn't seem like a very Air Force marking.



So either the door isn't original, the tailgate isn't original, or neither are original and it's a Coast Guard truck or something. Maybe when it gets the full respray it so desperately needs I'll sand down the bumpers and see if I can find anything else.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

Had lots of fuel issues, so parked the truck a couple years ago as I didn't have time or funds to deal with it. Got back to it last week, dropped the tank, full of rust and water... new tank, new pickup tube, new filter. Also the glow plugs were shot, so I replaced them and the relay as well.

Took it down the road to the gas station, smoked real good the first 1/2 mile lol. Ran great, starts great now too. On the way home temp light came on... figured out thermostat was stuck closed. And probably the original 1984 thermostat...

Broke the top bolt off on the thermostat housing, so I will have to drill it and deal with that.

But happy to (almost) have her back on the road.

 

[Keith_J]

That thermostat housing and coolant cross over top bolt is my only failure to extract broken bolt. I did all, including welding. Broke an extractor too, hitting it with the TIG torch to molten soften it up to make it drillable.

I found the Helicoil kit and slathered those bolts in antiseize. Went through a bunch of thermostats after that so money well spent.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

That thermostat housing and coolant cross over top bolt is my only failure to extract broken bolt. I did all, including welding. Broke an extractor too, hitting it with the TIG torch to molten soften it up to make it drillable.

I found the Helicoil kit and slathered those bolts in antiseize. Went through a bunch of thermostats after that so money well spent.

Appreciate the advice!

 

[Mainsail]

Every bolt or screw successfully removed gets a slather of anti-seize on reinstallation.

 

[royalflush55]

Every bolt or screw successfully removed gets a slather of anti-seize on reinstallation.

Be sure to use copper based anti-seize on aluminum!