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What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

coachgeo

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Purchased a bunch of FMTV parts...., roof headliner,
before you install it... could we talk you into grabbing some news paper.... tape it together (or pattern making paper from hobby shop) and trace out the headliner? Maybe we could send that to someone in here that can CAD it from there too?
 

agazza2

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Ahwatukee, AZ
before you install it... could we talk you into grabbing some news paper.... tape it together (or pattern making paper from hobby shop) and trace out the headliner? Maybe we could send that to someone in here that can CAD it from there too?
Absolutely. I will do it this coming weekend.
 

coachgeo

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grrr... broke the used replacement door handle....

grr... ripped an air brake line

... removed sway bar from previous axle... decided game plan on how to install it on the swapped in intermediate axle and how we are going to mount shocks. Sadly we will have to remove the big nub one the power divider that Meritor put there for holding the unit with. It hits a shock absorber. The nub is very convenient .. fits forklift forks perfectly. Hopefully we can leave enough of it for a bolt hole or two to temporary mount something in that spot for same purpose. Was hoping to put the shocks behind this axle but and sway bar more above axle.... but no go.... way to much work and re-engineering.
 

Third From Texas

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My sway bar bushings came in (still need to order the upper set)
Picked up a set of Monroe shocks that look like they will be a fit (will confirm upon arrival)
Started putting together my on-board tool kit
Got a new 20 ton air/hydraulic jack
Picked up a set of 12 ton jack stands
Got a set of big box wrenches (was sorely missing anything over 3/4")
Assembled my new blasting cabinet (Horror Freight, but I got all the items needed to modify it into a nice setup)
*mostly needed this for my two off-road cars in fab/paint currently but it will come in handy for little stuff on the truck build

New little Shop-Vac
 
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agazza2

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Third from Texas- Looking forward to seeing how those shocks work. I am researching also a replacement off the shelf shock from truck parts companies.
 

coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
for the shocks you will have to come up with sleeve to use them. both shock eyes take 5/8" bolt according to seller. On our trucks the top bolt is 7/8ths
 

Third From Texas

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Third from Texas- Looking forward to seeing how those shocks work. I am researching also a replacement off the shelf shock from truck parts companies.
I'll keep y'all updated.

CoachGeo was the first to order these and they should be coming in pretty quick.

These were the shocks. Assuming that they work, Monroe should be able to cross-ref them to a current product code.

Direct Action Shock Absorber Military MRAP RG-31
BAE Systems Land Systems
Made by Monroe
Shock Compressed is 20.5 inches long
Bolt holes 11/16" for 5/8" bolts


Part # R0046965
R0046965-0301
CO5OD1


NSN # 2510-01-540-6552
2510-01-548-1178
 

coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
...CoachGeo was the first to order these and they should be coming in pretty quick....
someone had ordered one pair before I did. Not sure who. I've so much going on not sure they will get installed quick. We are working on installing the sway bar to the replacement rear axle and then will get to shocks. Though can send more detailed pics when they come in.
 

olly hondro

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
tucson AZ
grrr... broke the used replacement door handle....

grr... ripped an air brake line

... removed sway bar from previous axle... decided game plan on how to install it on the swapped in intermediate axle and how we are going to mount shocks. Sadly we will have to remove the big nub one the power divider that Meritor put there for holding the unit with. It hits a shock absorber. The nub is very convenient .. fits forklift forks perfectly. Hopefully we can leave enough of it for a bolt hole or two to temporary mount something in that spot for same purpose. Was hoping to put the shocks behind this axle but and sway bar more above axle.... but no go.... way to much work and re-engineering.
Do we need a swaybar? Well, maybe you expedition camper guys do....thoughts?
 

coachgeo

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Location
North of Cincy OH
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Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,766
6,498
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas

Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,766
6,498
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
I knew my cab wasn't locking into the full upright position (where the locking bar flattens out into the safe position). So following suggestions others have made.
*image and walk-thru credited to Tom Bauer https://www.facebook.com/groups/1607576859556624/

Backed the nut off the inboard side
Freed the bolt on the outboard side so it could turn
Used a large screwdriver to pry the center cam loose (it has an upper and lower slot for the main lift pin on the actuator to ride in)
Carefully tapped the thin metal plate (inboard) with a hammer until it was free to rotate back into position (mine was spun counterclockwise ~15°)

At that point the cab slid into the full upright position and the locking bar flattened out into the safe and locked position. I greased the cam and surrounding plate and, re-torqued the inboard nut, and cycled the cab thru it's full range of raised and lowered.

It's a **** of a thing to see the cab come over center now. As the mechanism shifts past center (in either direction) there is a dramatic shift as the weight is distributed between the two slots of the cam (the weight shifts from the actuator to the frame in the locked position and visa-versa).

I feel a **** of a lot safer now, knowing that the cab is locked into the safe position while I'm under it. And the weight of the cab is now off the hydraulic cylinder when lowered.
 

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