What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

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osteo16

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Evansville, IN
Have been putting this off for 5 months... First time pulling plugs and replacing... 8 out, none swollen 🙌🏻.. took 30 mins👊🏽 Wire brushed those first two... don’t look bad at all.. new plugs in tomorrow 659FBC5C-E189-41E8-89FB-4008EA231FE2.jpeg
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Have been putting this off for 5 months... First time pulling plugs and replacing... 8 out, none swollen 🙌🏻.. took 30 mins👊🏽 Wire brushed those first two... don’t look bad at all.. new plugs in tomorrow View attachment 798402
If you let this sit without plugs, I hope you blocked the holes with painter’s tape. Dust or water gets in and you will have a problem. Stuff like this should never just sit open and should probably be finished at the same time as old part removal.
 

fuzzytoaster

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A new rebuild going bad is suspicious.

I would magnaflux or UV dye the heads and the block.

You might have a crack.

Before pulling the heads, run EGT's to ensure temps are not too high.

You sure fuel injector system not advanced on this fresh rebuild? That would elevate EGT's and cause damage.

Best,

T
Don't get me too excited now.. I could UV dye it but either way I have to get into it. I'll check the injection system as well for timing. Do you have a link on how to do that by chance?
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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I recall a post regarding how to advance the timing and I recall it saying that after a while these systems get so sloppy that there is no exact science.
 

Bulldogger

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Alexandria VA
I installed a civvy 24V solid state flasher to replace my military incandescent version. I didn’t want to buy the $50 military version so I adapted a Nartron 11613631 from theBay. I cut the plug off the old flasher and soldered the wires of the Nartron onto it so I could keep the military harness intact.
It works!!!
For those interested, here is the wiring:
57K to Nartron Black wire
325A to Nartron White wire
325B to Nartron Red wire

Will see how it holds up.

Bulldogger
 

HoveringHMMWV

Member
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AL
Cleaned the crud off my mirrors with Meguiar's PlastX. The process was quick and easy. I'm very impressed with the final result and would highly recommend.
 

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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,330
187
63
Location
Brooklyn, NY
I installed a civvy 24V solid state flasher to replace my military incandescent version. I didn’t want to buy the $50 military version so I adapted a Nartron 11613631 from theBay. I cut the plug off the old flasher and soldered the wires of the Nartron onto it so I could keep the military harness intact.
It works!!!
For those interested, here is the wiring:
57K to Nartron Black wire
325A to Nartron White wire
325B to Nartron Red wire

Will see how it holds up.

Bulldogger

There is an old thread about how to do something like this by opening up and gutting the military flasher unit and soldering in a civvy unit in order to keep your rig looking OEM.

Either way, nice work!
 

Bulldogger

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Alexandria VA
There is an old thread about how to do something like this by opening up and gutting the military flasher unit and soldering in a civvy unit in order to keep your rig looking OEM.

Either way, nice work!
I started with that in mind but my flasher was potted with ancient vinyl cement or some such. Hard as rock. I gave up and just whacked off the connector.
Bulldogger
 

Wire Fox

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Indianapolis, Indiana
Got busy with the fuel system again. Finished up with replacing the gaskets and hoses and now have the tank ready to raise into place. I also cut the panel out of the floor for the fuel access and got it all setup. Then after my wife got back home, I enlisted her help to get my missing cargo hooks installed in the floor. (Most of them...)

Now what's got me perplexed is getting the cargo barrier support/cargo hook combo bracket setup correctly. It has a 1/2-13 x 1 3/4 bolt that drops through the bracket and into the floor...but the kicker is, the bolt drops into a C-channel that has a cover plate riveted on, making the only access possible by reaching through the rear seat footwell through a 1 1/2 inch opening. Is there any easy, reasonable way to get this in-place that I'm not seeing? Right now my best thought is to use my handiclamp to hold the nut, apply a tiny bit of grease to stick the washer to the nut, and have someone up top spin it to finger-tight, then get a thin wrench in its place to finish the job.


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Wire Fox

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Indianapolis, Indiana
They're 1/2-13. That's one of the largest sizes of rivnut made and requires a $200+ tool for that one. I was looking into those before I installed these, because I'd love to not require two people to replace one of these in the future...

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Ajax MD

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Mayo, MD
I stole my wife's HMMWV to drive to work this morning. The weather is gorgeous after a ton of rain, so I couldn't resist.

There is a parallel route to the highway that is all secondary roads so I can take it easy on the engine. With the pandemic on, there was virtually no traffic for 25 miles and nearly all the traffic lights were green. Nothing but the sunrise, the clackity-clack of the engine and the hum of the tires.
 

osteo16

Active member
150
59
28
Location
Evansville, IN
Got busy with the fuel system again. Finished up with replacing the gaskets and hoses and now have the tank ready to raise into place. I also cut the panel out of the floor for the fuel access and got it all setup. Then after my wife got back home, I enlisted her help to get my missing cargo hooks installed in the floor. (Most of them...)

Now what's got me perplexed is getting the cargo barrier support/cargo hook combo bracket setup correctly. It has a 1/2-13 x 1 3/4 bolt that drops through the bracket and into the floor...but the kicker is, the bolt drops into a C-channel that has a cover plate riveted on, making the only access possible by reaching through the rear seat footwell through a 1 1/2 inch opening. Is there any easy, reasonable way to get this in-place that I'm not seeing? Right now my best thought is to use my handiclamp to hold the nut, apply a tiny bit of grease to stick the washer to the nut, and have someone up top spin it to finger-tight, then get a thin wrench in its place to finish the job.


Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk
I think my cover plate underneath has a hole in it with a plastic bung stuck in it.. Remove plastic bung and I believe it has access to that nut /washer.. If I’m not mistaken that cover piece is fairly thin, you may be able to drill an access hole and use a plastic hole cover when done... Just thinking out loud...
 
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