• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Milcommoguy

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,713
2,279
113
Location
Rosamond, CA
Horn circuit preferred? If not, where?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That would make more sense. Still managed via the dash switch and allowing full switched current. (up to switch rating ??) When in normal Stop Light / Drive mode good and in reverse. Dash switch in the black out position... back-ups lights would be disabled. Nice in the combat zone LOL.

I prefer to skip the reverse shiftier switch business. Say one needs a light back there , engine running, in neutral, park brake set (hooking / working / looking) NO can do.

Better IMO... simple switch with small ON indicator. It's a military HUMMWV not an civilian Corolla.

My main concern and point is there is a resistor in that switch with limited wattage to allow for the HI - LO to the dash lamp circuit. It's something to be aware of and concern if one going to pull current in excess of intended "couple of dash lamps"

If it working for you great. Now back to the TM's, CAMO
 

jkcondrey

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
317
141
43
Location
Rutherfordton, NC
That would make more sense. Still managed via the dash switch and allowing full switched current. (up to switch rating ??) When in normal Stop Light / Drive mode good and in reverse. Dash switch in the black out position... back-ups lights would be disabled. Nice in the combat zone LOL.

I prefer to skip the reverse shiftier switch business. Say one needs a light back there , engine running, in neutral, park brake set (hooking / working / looking) NO can do.

Better IMO... simple switch with small ON indicator. It's a military HUMMWV not an civilian Corolla.

My main concern and point is there is a resistor in that switch with limited wattage to allow for the HI - LO to the dash lamp circuit. It's something to be aware of and concern if one going to pull current in excess of intended "couple of dash lamps"

If it working for you great. Now back to the TM's, CAMO
I think alot of folks want it shift activated because of inspections. I know I have had several inspections where they checked for reverse lights. I cant say I have seen it on the list of required items, but given that they are not on very long, I cannot think it would overload anything. I used a low draw set of LED's as well, with the standard neutral safety switch inserted
 

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,569
1,415
113
Location
Mayo, MD
I wired mine to the shifter to avoid unpleasant interactions with my state's ASED (safety inspectors.)
I didn't tap the shift illuminator for power though.
 

Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,559
113
Location
East Tennessee
I think alot of folks want it shift activated because of inspections. I know I have had several inspections where they checked for reverse lights. I cant say I have seen it on the list of required items, but given that they are not on very long, I cannot think it would overload anything. I used a low draw set of LED's as well, with the standard neutral safety switch inserted
AMG has lights grounded, then a wire to the shifter switch.
The other switch wire ties into J on light switch, horn, and G ? on the turn signal switch.
Its all in the TM.
Note, I just quoted one of the conversation's post. Nothing intended directly at the quoted person.
 

rcamacho

Well-known member
774
858
93
Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
Fuel filter.
Fine filter screen was good. Truck picked up a bit of power post filter change. I gather flow to the IP was restricted.



Original filter looks to have a minor mfg defect vulcanizing the metal screen to the end cap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

kzeyus

Active member
141
30
28
Location
Rogers, AR
Been catching up on maint last couple weeks. Changed the fuel filter, and it was NASTY! so drained the tank thinking may be full of scum, but it was clean as a whistle. Did manage to spill a gallon or so of diesel though. This is first time I've done the filter, kept putting off as thought it a pain to get to. Wasn't actually as bad as I thought it would be. Replaced leaky heater core. New seals and spindle nuts in all four hubs. Fixed washer pump, put on Black Dog X-door retainers and replaced the leaky steering gear with a new Lares unit.
 

Attachments

rcamacho

Well-known member
774
858
93
Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
Been catching up on maint last couple weeks. Changed the fuel filter, and it was NASTY! so drained the tank thinking may be full of scum, but it was clean as a whistle. Did manage to spill a gallon or so of diesel though. This is first time I've done the filter, kept putting off as thought it a pain to get to. Wasn't actually as bad as I thought it would be. Replaced leaky heater core. New seals and spindle nuts in all four hubs. Fixed washer pump, put on Black Dog X-door retainers and replaced the leaky steering gear with a new Lares unit.
Wow, that makes my nearly plugged filter look pristine! Surprised it ran at all...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

HUNvee

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
174
253
63
Location
Hungary
I had a perfectly dry soft top. Now have a hard top with turret and the rain dripping on my head but I love it!
 

Lothar

Well-known member
324
661
93
Location
North Arkansas
Put the finishing touches on this air and propane system. I will now be able to preheat my work without lugging a propane bottle around. Or use compressed air for inflating, blowing debris and air tools. Also included an air horn operated by an old style pull cord.
20210321_171243.jpg20210321_171259.jpg20210321_171232.jpg20210321_171333.jpg20210315_185631.jpg
 

Daves86

Active member
139
80
28
Location
Manassas/VA
Found my fuel leak. Only leaks when I fill up, now I know why
Fuel tank 50.JPG
Someone drilled thru the floor and into the tank near the filler neck. A 1/4 x 20 screw screwed into the hole tightly, then put some fuel resistant sealant over that. At least I got new gaskets and freshened up the fuel system.
Still need to find where that hole in the deck is.
 

HoveringHMMWV

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
492
1,156
93
Location
AL
Changed out the hoses to/from the heater core. Found some blue Flexfab for the straight sections and OEM for the elbows. The elbow section down at the engine block was a bear to replace. Ran the engine up to temp and checked for leaks. Good so far. Of course I'd wait until winter is over before addressing this item on the punch card. Note the shiny rebuilt IP from last year...... still running great.
- HoveringHMMWV

IMG_7093.jpg
 

HoveringHMMWV

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
492
1,156
93
Location
AL
Am I correct that this is NOT the DWF CDR? It's missing the small barb for the pressurization hose that goes to the DWF switch in the cab?
I believe this is a correct statement. Operational with "normal" driving but not correct if used while fording .
- HoveringHMMWV
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks