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- Puget Sound, WA
I think you have enough sand there to make a Little San Yermo behind the garage.
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately
- Thread starter Warthog
- Start date
- 3,251
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- 113
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- Brooklyn, NY
I don’t understand your juggernaut towards a centralized front diff.Finally have the cooling stack off for service position.
Next up:
Center diff and finish LF brake.
Water pump
Power steering pump
Rebuild front steering gear
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Everything else sounds good.
- 1,339
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- Location
- Las Vegas Nevada
Both axles are the same!
rcamacho
Well-known member
- 764
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- Bainbridge Island Wa
Ah, slight clarification…
The front diff needed to be slightly adjusted where the frame brackets attach. Zero clearance for the LF caliper otherwise. Procedure is in the TM
Managed to complete the LF brakes and half shaft bolts this evening. Diff alignment is good now.
Have to say I like the new Nordlock washers.
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The front diff needed to be slightly adjusted where the frame brackets attach. Zero clearance for the LF caliper otherwise. Procedure is in the TM
Managed to complete the LF brakes and half shaft bolts this evening. Diff alignment is good now.
Have to say I like the new Nordlock washers.
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Last edited:
rcamacho
Well-known member
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- Bainbridge Island Wa
Filled the front diff, bolted down the pinion side mount and ordered front driveshaft universal joints.
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- 5,886
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- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
Wait until you remove one, you would swear your about to break the bolt but it is just the washer holding the bolt head, almost gives you that sick feeling like you just broke a bone when the washer finally fails, it kinda snaps, great washers!!
Question:
I will drop my fuel tank (old style) this winter to repair some fuel line leaks.
If I remove the drain plug, what are the odds that it will properly seal up again when I reinstall the plug? Should I find another way to drain the tank?
Thanks.
I will drop my fuel tank (old style) this winter to repair some fuel line leaks.
If I remove the drain plug, what are the odds that it will properly seal up again when I reinstall the plug? Should I find another way to drain the tank?
Thanks.
- 5,886
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- Location
- Papalote, TX
It is a good idea to always replace the plug.
- 1,402
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- Location
- Quantico VA
Best to order a new one and have it ready. I'd say your chances of being able to reuse it are somewhere between 0 and 0 percent.
Ok, a new plug makes sense. What are the odds that the threads in the plastic tank will be ok?
Usually I wrap plugs like this in teflon tape or something but I'm not sure if diesel would eat that up.
- 5,886
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- Location
- Papalote, TX
Hole is round, no threads it held in by compression.
Besides teflon tape should not be used on any diesel fuel system, or oil system for that matter (trans/engine)
I knew the tape wasn't compatible. Didn't know the plug was threadless. Hm...
ETA: A photo shows that it has a philips head screw in the center. Is this an expandable plug? You turn the screw and the plug expands to fill the hole?
- 5,504
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- Metairie/La (N'awlins)
correct
- 279
- 391
- 63
- Location
- Cleveland,TN
You are not going to "remove" it the way you are thinking. You will end up cutting the outside portion off once you remove the screw and discover the inside has swelled in place. Punch the remaining piece inside to remove when you get the tank out. I might add, buy the correct piece instead of the "bolt" type replacement. Less to catch on and rip out. Plus the bolt type may not be compatible with diesel. My 2 cents.
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- Olympia/WA
Just replaced my idler arm today with the Moog version.
I took a couple of pics of the moog vs A2 version side by side for comparison's sake.
The moog version uses 12mm bolts instead of 7/16, so I did have to run a drill bit through one of the frame mounting holes in order for the bolt to fit. The moog version (bought from HPG) does come with the new bolts and nuts, but no castle nut (old one works just fine)
I took a couple of pics of the moog vs A2 version side by side for comparison's sake.
The moog version uses 12mm bolts instead of 7/16, so I did have to run a drill bit through one of the frame mounting holes in order for the bolt to fit. The moog version (bought from HPG) does come with the new bolts and nuts, but no castle nut (old one works just fine)
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- Location
- WOBURN. MA.
Huge difference. Impressive.
Mark
Mark
- 2,832
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- 113
- Location
- Olympia/WA
yeah, a little more than I expected.
Without side by side pics, you don't realize just how much bigger the Moog version is.
- 1,402
- 583
- 113
- Location
- Quantico VA
Correct, expandable plug
Thumper580
Active member
- 269
- 209
- 43
- Location
- Virginia
Coug, did you remove the idler arm? If so, did it come out OK or was it a pain? On my old 998 I tried using all the normal tools and neither the pitman or idler would budge. Finally had to take it to a heavy truck shop and they got them out... I was wondering if it fought you very much.
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- Olympia/WA
it was pretty easy to be honest. Not a lot of room to swing a hammer, but managed to knock it apart with just a small ball pein hammer with around a dozen hits.
The two tie rod ends I replaced at the same time also only took a few decent hits to get them to release also.
When I did the pitman and another ball joint, neither of them took tools for the joint. Only had to use a puller for getting it off the steering box.