What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[TOBASH]

Finally have the cooling stack off for service position.
Next up:
Center diff and finish LF brake.
Water pump
Power steering pump
Rebuild front steering gear

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I don’t understand your juggernaut towards a centralized front diff.

Everything else sounds good.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I don’t understand your juggernaut towards a centralized front diff.

Everything else sounds good.

Both axles are the same!

 

[rcamacho]

Ah, slight clarification…
The front diff needed to be slightly adjusted where the frame brackets attach. Zero clearance for the LF caliper otherwise. Procedure is in the TM

Managed to complete the LF brakes and half shaft bolts this evening. Diff alignment is good now.
Have to say I like the new Nordlock washers.


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[rcamacho]

Filled the front diff, bolted down the pinion side mount and ordered front driveshaft universal joints.


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[Mogman]

Ah, slight clarification…
The front diff needed to be slightly adjusted where the frame brackets attach. Zero clearance for the LF caliper otherwise. Procedure is in the TM

Managed to complete the LF brakes and half shaft bolts this evening. Diff alignment is good now.
Have to say I like the new Nordlock washers.


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Wait until you remove one, you would swear your about to break the bolt but it is just the washer holding the bolt head, almost gives you that sick feeling like you just broke a bone when the washer finally fails, it kinda snaps, great washers!!

 

[Ajax MD]

Question:

I will drop my fuel tank (old style) this winter to repair some fuel line leaks.
If I remove the drain plug, what are the odds that it will properly seal up again when I reinstall the plug? Should I find another way to drain the tank?

Thanks.

 

[Mogman]

Question:

I will drop my fuel tank (old style) this winter to repair some fuel line leaks.
If I remove the drain plug, what are the odds that it will properly seal up again when I reinstall the plug? Should I find another way to drain the tank?

Thanks.

It is a good idea to always replace the plug.

 

[Bulldogger]

Question:

I will drop my fuel tank (old style) this winter to repair some fuel line leaks.
If I remove the drain plug, what are the odds that it will properly seal up again when I reinstall the plug? Should I find another way to drain the tank?

Thanks.

Best to order a new one and have it ready. I'd say your chances of being able to reuse it are somewhere between 0 and 0 percent.

 

[Ajax MD]

Best to order a new one and have it ready. I'd say your chances of being able to reuse it are somewhere between 0 and 0 percent.

Ok, a new plug makes sense. What are the odds that the threads in the plastic tank will be ok?
Usually I wrap plugs like this in teflon tape or something but I'm not sure if diesel would eat that up.

 

[Mogman]

Ok, a new plug makes sense. What are the odds that the threads in the plastic tank will be ok?
Usually I wrap plugs like this in teflon tape or something but I'm not sure if diesel would eat that up.

Hole is round, no threads it held in by compression.
Besides teflon tape should not be used on any diesel fuel system, or oil system for that matter (trans/engine)

 

[Ajax MD]

Hole is round, no threads it held in by compression.
Besides teflon tape should not be used on any diesel fuel system, or oil system for that matter (trans/engine)

I knew the tape wasn't compatible. Didn't know the plug was threadless. Hm...

ETA: A photo shows that it has a philips head screw in the center. Is this an expandable plug? You turn the screw and the plug expands to fill the hole?

 

[juanprado]

correct

 

[TNDRIVER]

Question:

I will drop my fuel tank (old style) this winter to repair some fuel line leaks.
If I remove the drain plug, what are the odds that it will properly seal up again when I reinstall the plug? Should I find another way to drain the tank?

Thanks.

You are not going to "remove" it the way you are thinking. You will end up cutting the outside portion off once you remove the screw and discover the inside has swelled in place. Punch the remaining piece inside to remove when you get the tank out. I might add, buy the correct piece instead of the "bolt" type replacement. Less to catch on and rip out. Plus the bolt type may not be compatible with diesel. My 2 cents.

 

[Coug]

Just replaced my idler arm today with the Moog version.

I took a couple of pics of the moog vs A2 version side by side for comparison's sake.

The moog version uses 12mm bolts instead of 7/16, so I did have to run a drill bit through one of the frame mounting holes in order for the bolt to fit. The moog version (bought from HPG) does come with the new bolts and nuts, but no castle nut (old one works just fine)

 

[MarkM]

Huge difference. Impressive.

Mark

 

[Coug]

Huge difference. Impressive.

Mark

yeah, a little more than I expected.
Without side by side pics, you don't realize just how much bigger the Moog version is.

 

[Bulldogger]

I knew the tape wasn't compatible. Didn't know the plug was threadless. Hm...

ETA: A photo shows that it has a philips head screw in the center. Is this an expandable plug? You turn the screw and the plug expands to fill the hole?

Correct, expandable plug

 

[Thumper580]

Just replaced my idler arm today with the Moog version.

I took a couple of pics of the moog vs A2 version side by side for comparison's sake.

The moog version uses 12mm bolts instead of 7/16, so I did have to run a drill bit through one of the frame mounting holes in order for the bolt to fit. The moog version (bought from HPG) does come with the new bolts and nuts, but no castle nut (old one works just fine)

View attachment 886145

View attachment 886146

Coug, did you remove the idler arm? If so, did it come out OK or was it a pain? On my old 998 I tried using all the normal tools and neither the pitman or idler would budge. Finally had to take it to a heavy truck shop and they got them out... I was wondering if it fought you very much.

 

[Coug]

Coug, did you remove the idler arm? If so, did it come out OK or was it a pain? On my old 998 I tried using all the normal tools and neither the pitman or idler would budge. Finally had to take it to a heavy truck shop and they got them out... I was wondering if it fought you very much.

it was pretty easy to be honest. Not a lot of room to swing a hammer, but managed to knock it apart with just a small ball pein hammer with around a dozen hits.
The two tie rod ends I replaced at the same time also only took a few decent hits to get them to release also.
When I did the pitman and another ball joint, neither of them took tools for the joint. Only had to use a puller for getting it off the steering box.

 

[HUNvee]

It went easy for me. I used a cheap puller and a hot air blower. I pulled and started heating it, then it jumped off with a loud bang. I didn't need to hit it.