• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

belted_guns

Active member
70
169
33
Location
Prosper TX
finally got my Vic-3 four ffcs stations installed along with dual bluetooth (plugged into A and B radio ports). I know the ffcs with four is overkill for a hmmwv but i could so i did. mounted each one within easy access to each seat, and with dual bluetooth, can have two cell phones connected and talk, stream, etc. next up will be a RIT installation with a marine radio and a ham radio. it was "easy" to install. Ask me any questions. the hardest item was procuring the "correct" length highway cables.

those beige boxes are the bluetooth and they are just there until i can get a dual box 3d printed to replace them. If you want bluetooth, #augi on this board is the developer. exellent solution!!!
 

Attachments

HoveringHMMWV

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
492
1,156
93
Location
AL
I recently noticed that my fan began cycling on and off very quickly even when the truck hadn't even warmed up properly. Today, I installed an OEM thermostatic switch and noticed that the original which came with the truck looks quite different. Wondering if the USMC accidently received a batch of aftermarket parts.
Will test run tomorrow to confirm proper function.
Original on left, OEM replacement on right.
Post Test Drive Update: Fan operates normally and closer to advertised temps. Cycles on at approx 220 and back off when approx 200-210. The original thermostatic switch ran the truck cooler when it was operating (cycled on at approx 200 and off after cooling down several degrees). I suspect it was an aftermarket replacement even though it was installed original to the truck.

IMG_1364.JPG
 
Last edited:

rcamacho

Well-known member
774
858
93
Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
Front toe adjustment after replacing TRE, lower ball joints, Pittman arm, idler arm and rebuilding steering gear. I was within 1/4” visually before adjustment .

Made some slip/turn plates which helped immensely. Toe set at 0 +\- 1/4” with my lack of accuracy.

I’ll likely use the full string method after I get the rear suspension sorted.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Crapgame

Well-known member
639
337
63
Location
Navarre, FL
I recently noticed that my fan began cycling on and off very quickly even when the truck hadn't even warmed up properly. Today, I installed an OEM thermostatic switch and noticed that the original which came with the truck looks quite different. Wondering if the USMC accidently received a batch of aftermarket parts.
Will test run tomorrow to confirm proper function.
Original on left, OEM replacement on right.
Post Test Drive Update: Fan operates normally and closer to advertised temps. Cycles on at approx 220 and back off when approx 200-210. The original thermostatic switch ran the truck cooler when it was operating (cycled on at approx 200 and off after cooling down several degrees). I suspect it was an aftermarket replacement even though it was installed original to the truck.

View attachment 894279
The blue tagged sensor is the only mil-spec sensor, even AMG got stung, wound up with hundreds of Chinesium versions that were claimed to meet spec. There is a discussion about it back in Jan/Feb.
 

belted_guns

Active member
70
169
33
Location
Prosper TX
I hope you used some contact washers or coating on those fasteners to stop galvanic corrosion... Stainless and aluminum do not play well
I use washers on both sides and everything is metal primed and then surface painted. but yeah, my truck is a battery. my adds are stainless, then the existing bolts are anodized steel, there are some chromium plated bolts, and then steel plates, different types of AL, brackets, etc.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,771
19,879
113
Location
Charlotte NC
I use washers on both sides and everything is metal primed and then surface painted. but yeah, my truck is a battery. my adds are stainless, then the existing bolts are anodized steel, there are some chromium plated bolts, and then steel plates, different types of AL, brackets, etc.
Some nylon washers would be really good. The nylon would keep the dis-similar metals apart except where the bolt touches the aluminum - and if you were careful - even that could be avoided...
 

Autonomy_Lost

Well-known member
687
1,537
93
Location
Pennsylvania
Here is a good article on aluminum and stainless:


Interesting excerpt:

"The other situation in which these materials can be used together with little impact on rust prevention is if the cathode area is very small when compared to the anode area. For example, if the base material is a large sheet of aluminum, then using very small stainless steel screws will not dramatically decrease the life. Conversely, if you use aluminum to attach a large sheet of stainless steel, the aluminum life will be dramatically shortened."

Seems to me like avoiding it is the best practice. But a stainless bolt here and there with paint as an insulator will probably be okay.
 

Autonomy_Lost

Well-known member
687
1,537
93
Location
Pennsylvania
Finished installing missing LH upper cargo shell close out piece.

Lots of corrosion and drill damage to repair as well. Of note I was pleasantly surprised to find corrosion prevention tape factory installed between the cargo shell and upper hinge latches.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Please report if replacing this piece makes any difference with keeping rain out. Thanks!
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks