• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,932
9,594
113
Location
Papalote, TX
So of all the places I could get a rock chip, it was directly in front of the dash camera.
So I spent 45 minutes changing out the windshield today. Still need to redo the name stickers on top and the dash camera mounting pad, but other than that it's nice to have new glass.
Would have taken a lot less time if I hadn't used Lexel to seal the gasket in (and possibly could have saved the old windshield and repaired the chip, then used as a spare for the other side). Soapy water made installing the new one easy.

View attachment 842524
Do you have video of the chip "forming"?
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,197
113
Location
Georgia
wait, so you painted EVERYTHING inside?
Gauges, warning lights, glass, shift indicator, turn signal sight glass, lockup indicator, etc are all taped off then everything inside got sprayed. It was bad bad, this thing sat for atleast 5 plus years with no top after being rebuilt in 08 at Albany


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,716
19,766
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Gauges, warning lights, glass, shift indicator, turn signal sight glass, lockup indicator, etc are all taped off then everything inside got sprayed. It was bad bad, this thing sat for atleast 5 plus years with no top after being rebuilt in 08 at Albany


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
.
But it is nice and green inside and out :cool: . . . now anyway.
 

DHumvee

Member
42
50
18
Location
Northwest Florida
.
Nice! You cut down your problem area by 75% so now you have something to focus on. I'm not sure if the run-flat could bunch up of not. I would think that the truck would see the shake come and go according to your speed if that was the problem.

Airing up to 50psi is a cheap fix too. Just remember to air it up by a few (maybe 5) pounds, then walk away and come back again for another 5. These rims aren't like the old split rims from the days gone by - but with it being a new-to you truck - it might be smart to keep as much of your body out from in front of the tire as you add pressure.

It may have sat there flat for a while like you mentioned...
Great information, I certainly appreciate your response. I haven't found a speed that is consistent yet. I'm still waiting on paperwork so I'm afraid to experiment to much on the road. Do the run flats move inside the rims or are they stationary?
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,716
19,766
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Great information, I certainly appreciate your response. I haven't found a speed that is consistent yet. I'm still waiting on paperwork so I'm afraid to experiment to much on the road. Do the run flats move inside the rims or are they stationary?
.
Run Flat inserts that I have seen are fitted snugly around the rim.
They do move around, but not a lot.

Yessir, no need to get in trouble with the law!
Paperwork makes certain folks really happy and "lack of" makes them really grumpy.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,716
19,766
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Just thinking out loud, I don't understand how a run flat / double beadlock could be loose enough to move around but still tight enough to keep the tires from coming off the bead when used at low pressure.
.
I think that the "move around" is a relative term.
Agreed that it does have to hold the tire to the bead locks.
 

Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,558
113
Location
East Tennessee
Just thinking out loud, I don't understand how a run flat / double beadlock could be loose enough to move around but still tight enough to keep the tires from coming off the bead when used at low pressure.
They are supposed to be installed with some sort of lube. This may allow the runflat to rotate in place. If it were perfectly balanced, it wouldnt matter.
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,197
113
Location
Georgia
They are supposed to be installed with some sort of lube. This may allow the runflat to rotate in place. If it were perfectly balanced, it wouldnt matter.
The way I understand it, a run flat should not move, the lubricant is to prevent near immediate tire failure and separation allowing temporary limp home/out of combat by allowing the rubber to stay cool rubbing against itself. I blew a 14.00 with a run flat in it and no lubricant and the heat was immense in just a couple miles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,558
113
Location
East Tennessee
The way I understand it, a run flat should not move, the lubricant is to prevent near immediate tire failure and separation allowing temporary limp home/out of combat by allowing the rubber to stay cool rubbing against itself. I blew a 14.00 with a run flat in it and no lubricant and the heat was immense in just a couple miles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I meant the assembly lube that comes in a bucket and applied with a brush. It may be called tire soap. Applied to the bead areas. The actual runflat lube is down in the tire.
 

M1165A1

Well-known member
413
859
93
Location
The High Country, CO
Still dealing with my defective heater core in the M1165A1. I rigged up a bypass hose today between the supply and drain lines and capped the heater core side hoses. Drove 20 miles or so and engine temp stayed rock steady in the low green and no fluid leaking anywhere. Looks like I'm back in business.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,716
19,766
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Still dealing with my defective heater core in the M1165A1. I rigged up a bypass hose today between the supply and drain lines and capped the heater core side hoses. Drove 20 miles or so and engine temp stayed rock steady in the low green and no fluid leaking anywhere. Looks like I'm back in business.
.
Good for you! When you get the heater core repaired or replaced - I suggest that the short length of hose and two hose clamps should be kept in the truck. Never know when you might need that again. Hopefully never...
 

tmobileguy

New member
9
4
3
Location
Florida
Still dealing with my defective heater core in the M1165A1. I rigged up a bypass hose today between the supply and drain lines and capped the heater core side hoses. Drove 20 miles or so and engine temp stayed rock steady in the low green and no fluid leaking anywhere. Looks like I'm back in business.
I just pulled mine out of my M1123. Going to sell it because I'm redoing the whole truck including a universal AC system. Let me know if your interested. It worked perfectly before I took it out.

I guess I have a question for everyone as well..... what do these things sell for on the used market?
 

Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,558
113
Location
East Tennessee
I just pulled mine out of my M1123. Going to sell it because I'm redoing the whole truck including a universal AC system. Let me know if your interested. It worked perfectly before I took it out.

I guess I have a question for everyone as well..... what do these things sell for on the used market?
You dont have what he needs.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks