What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[HoveringHMMWV]

The muffler heat shield was rubbing the driveshaft on my newly acquired GovPlanet M1151A1. So, after receiving the necessary parts, I replaced the dry rotted exhaust insulator and added exhaust spacers which were needed after the demil process. Result: no more rubbing heat shield.
Before....



And after....

 

[Mattguy]

The muffler heat shield was rubbing the driveshaft on my newly acquired GovPlanet M1151A1. So, after receiving the necessary parts, I replaced the dry rotted exhaust insulator and added exhaust spacers which were needed after the demil process. Result: no more rubbing heat shield.
Before....

View attachment 867113

And after....
View attachment 867114 View attachment 867115 View attachment 867116

I'm dealing with that now, but mine is rattling so bad I just may remove heat shield.

 

[Mullaney]

I'm dealing with that now, but mine is rattling so bad I just may remove heat shield.

.
May want that heat shield. Yeah, pain in the back side, but shielding from the heat is somewhat important.

 

[visualg]

Guys,

Trying to source 4 Soft doors, used, good condition is ok or if you have a source for new, that could be ok, but need black if New. I know there's some new floating around, but really cheap vinyl. I'm thinking of used, paint them black for now, then redo them when I get my top redone in the same material. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

[Mogman]

Guys,

Trying to source 4 Soft doors, used, good condition is ok or if you have a source for new, that could be ok, but need black if New. I know there's some new floating around, but really cheap vinyl. I'm thinking of used, paint them black for now, then redo them when I get my top redone in the same material. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

This should have been posted in the want ads

 

[visualg]

This should have been posted in the want ads

Sorry, good point!

 

[Maxjeep1]

Today I took my lift pump off, it was hard to get at. I couldn’t see anything and had to feel my way around. I took the fender liner off and I got it from the top and bottom. I think I have diesel in my oil and I thought bad fuel pump could cause it. I get it off and gave it a squeeze and it had 3/8” of travel before you got tension. I got a new pump from Mac Motors and it is really tight and it looks different. I have a melton rebuild and so far I’m not impressed with their work. I think they put Chinese knock off pump on it.
Mac motors pump

Melton pump

 

[TOBASH]

Be careful replacing the pump if you have the cylinder that pushes the lever type setup. You need to place a glob of Vaseline on the cylinder pushrod and push it high up into the hole and make sure it stays there before replacing with the new pump or you will crack the pushrod and have more problems.

Don’t worry about the Vaseline as the oil will wash it away.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Be careful replacing the pump if you have the cylinder that pushes the lever type setup. You need to place a glob of Vaseline on the cylinder pushrod and push it high up into the hole and make sure it stays there before replacing with a new pump or you will crack the pushrod and have more problems.

Don’t worry about the Vaseline as the oil will wash it away.

As it stands now the rod is sticking out about 1/2” when I push it in. I put the rod and the grease in the freezer and I thought that might give me a little more work time before it falls down. It’s warm here now and I can tell grease is stickier than when it was on the shelf

 

[Mogman]

As it stands now the rod is sticking out about 1/2” when I push it in. I put the rod and the grease in the freezer and I thought that might give me a little more work time before it falls down. It’s warm here now and I can tell grease is stickier than when it was on the shelf

If you have the rod out, also put a blob of grease on the very end, it will help it stick to the cam when you shove it in, I use plain old axle grease

 

[Mogman]

It should not need to be cooled the grease will hold it.

 

[Maxjeep1]

It should not need to be cooled the grease will hold it.

I’m so slow I need all the time I can get. Hahahaha

 

[blutow]

Today I took my lift pump off, it was hard to get at. I couldn’t see anything and had to feel my way around. I took the fender liner off and I got it from the top and bottom. I think I have diesel in my oil and I thought bad fuel pump could cause it. I get it off and gave it a squeeze and it had 3/8” of travel before you got tension. I got a new pump from Mac Motors and it is really tight and it looks different. I have a melton rebuild and so far I’m not impressed with their work. I think they put Chinese knock off pump on it.
Mac motors pump
View attachment 867354
Melton pump
View attachment 867360

I'm doing the exact same job right now. My pump was working fine, but I decided to replace it while I was replacing all my fuel and coolant hoses. I figured it would be a 30 minute job, but it's not the most accessible thing. It came out pretty quick, but I failed trying to get the new one installed today. I actually ran out of time and had to quit, but I couldn't get the bolts started after trying for at least 20 minutes. I think the angle on the threaded fitting might be slightly different compared to the old pump and that's making it tough to line up. Or maybe I bent the hard line a little removing it. Regardless, I won't have a chance to try again until Sunday, hopefully the next try will go better. I may remove the fender liner to make access easier. I also thought about removing that metal coolant pipe section. I'm hoping the push rod stays stuck in place until Sunday. One tip for others doing this - I'm pretty sure the fuel pump rod is furthest in when the engine is top dead center. I spun the engine around a couple times to make sure I had the rod all the way in. Remember that the rod rides on the cam (not the crank), so you can't just go off the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. The rod will either be all the way out or all the way in when that timing mark is alinged, it's pretty easy to feel the difference.

I noticed the same different between pumps and I bought mine from Mac as well. My 2009 rebuild is also a melton. I've notice a couple small sloppy things with the assembly, but nothing too bad. It did have cracking/leaking injector return lines when I got it, so they cheaped out on those hoses. All the other rubber on the engine was good, but I'm replacing hoses since I consider it cheap insurance on hoses that has been sitting for 13 years. I think all the hoses combined were less expensive than the actual coolant.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I'm doing the exact same job right now. My pump was working fine, but I decided to replace it while I was replacing all my fuel and coolant hoses. I figured it would be a 30 minute job, but it's not the most accessible thing. It came out pretty quick, but I failed trying to get the new one installed today. I actually ran out of time and had to quit, but I couldn't get the bolts started after trying for at least 20 minutes. I think the angle on the threaded fitting might be slightly different compared to the old pump and that's making it tough to line up. Or maybe I bent the hard line a little removing it. Regardless, I won't have a chance to try again until Sunday, hopefully the next try will go better. I may remove the fender liner to make access easier. I also thought about removing that metal coolant pipe section. I'm hoping the push rod stays stuck in place until Sunday. One tip for others doing this - I'm pretty sure the fuel pump rod is furthest in when the engine is top dead center. I spun the engine around a couple times to make sure I had the rod all the way in. Remember that the rod rides on the cam (not the crank), so you can't just go off the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. The rod will either be all the way out or all the way in when that timing mark is alinged, it's pretty easy to feel the difference.

I noticed the same different between pumps and I bought mine from Mac as well. My 2009 rebuild is also a melton. I've notice a couple small sloppy things with the assembly, but nothing too bad. It did have cracking/leaking injector return lines when I got it, so they cheaped out on those hoses. All the other rubber on the engine was good, but I'm replacing hoses since I consider it cheap insurance on hoses that has been sitting for 13 years. I think all the hoses combined were less expensive than the actual coolant.

I couldn’t have got it without removing the fender liner. It came off really easy. I used power tools and a few minutes later it was off. The a/c and other stuff makes it harder than my m1123

 

[Coonass77]

I'm doing the exact same job right now. My pump was working fine, but I decided to replace it while I was replacing all my fuel and coolant hoses. I figured it would be a 30 minute job, but it's not the most accessible thing. It came out pretty quick, but I failed trying to get the new one installed today. I actually ran out of time and had to quit, but I couldn't get the bolts started after trying for at least 20 minutes. I think the angle on the threaded fitting might be slightly different compared to the old pump and that's making it tough to line up. Or maybe I bent the hard line a little removing it. Regardless, I won't have a chance to try again until Sunday, hopefully the next try will go better. I may remove the fender liner to make access easier. I also thought about removing that metal coolant pipe section. I'm hoping the push rod stays stuck in place until Sunday. One tip for others doing this - I'm pretty sure the fuel pump rod is furthest in when the engine is top dead center. I spun the engine around a couple times to make sure I had the rod all the way in. Remember that the rod rides on the cam (not the crank), so you can't just go off the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. The rod will either be all the way out or all the way in when that timing mark is alinged, it's pretty easy to feel the difference.

I noticed the same different between pumps and I bought mine from Mac as well. My 2009 rebuild is also a melton. I've notice a couple small sloppy things with the assembly, but nothing too bad. It did have cracking/leaking injector return lines when I got it, so they cheaped out on those hoses. All the other rubber on the engine was good, but I'm replacing hoses since I consider it cheap insurance on hoses that has been sitting for 13 years. I think all the hoses combined were less expensive than the actual coolant.

I was having trouble with the fuel line threaded fitting lining up as well when I did mine. There's a couple of clamps holding the line in place on the front of the motor. I loosened those and it gave me enough play to get the fitting lined up fairly easily without having to bend or force the the hardline.

I did not remove the fender liner and didn't have a lift, so a lot of the job was done by feel. Not the funnest thing I've ever done, but not too terribly bad either.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I got the new pump on and I pulled the line off of the filter and cranked it about 15 seconds 4 different times waiting in between. I got zero fuel out of it. I don’t think it’s the new pump and I believe that’s it’s installed right. I pulled the check valve out by the fuel tank and blew it out with about 40psi. It seemed hesitant at first but it is clear and it makes a flappy noise when air goes thru it. I will get new hose and clamps for it and try to figure out my issue. I feel more confident that it’s something stupid that I haven’t found yet

 

[Maxjeep1]

After cleaning the check valve and replacing the rubber hoses I’m getting a good amount of fuel at the filter inlet. I have the 2 rear injectors cracked open and I haven’t got fuel to come out yet. I do have fuel coming from the return on the IP cover. I noticed that I had a big fuel leak exactly where my new fuel pump is. I got underneath and it was coming from above the fuel pump. I got on top of it and I noticed that the return line that goes from the 1st injector on passenger side to the return line was leaking really bad and it was falling off. I’m trying to find replacement line that’s not a 25’ roll. I never had fuel to that injector before or it would have leaked. I don’t know if that means my IP is good or not but something is getting fuel to it. I will charge batteries and keep trying to work thru it. Non runner is difficult because you don’t know why and you have to work through the system.

 

[Action]

After cleaning the check valve and replacing the rubber hoses I’m getting a good amount of fuel at the filter inlet. I have the 2 rear injectors cracked open and I haven’t got fuel to come out yet. I do have fuel coming from the return on the IP cover. I noticed that I had a big fuel leak exactly where my new fuel pump is. I got underneath and it was coming from above the fuel pump. I got on top of it and I noticed that the return line that goes from the 1st injector on passenger side to the return line was leaking really bad and it was falling off. I’m trying to find replacement line that’s not a 25’ roll. I never had fuel to that injector before or it would have leaked. I don’t know if that means my IP is good or not but something is getting fuel to it. I will charge batteries and keep trying to work thru it. Non runner is difficult because you don’t know why and you have to work through the system.

Open the air bleed valve on top of the fuel filter can.

 

[Gcelevator]

After cleaning the check valve and replacing the rubber hoses I’m getting a good amount of fuel at the filter inlet. I have the 2 rear injectors cracked open and I haven’t got fuel to come out yet. I do have fuel coming from the return on the IP cover. I noticed that I had a big fuel leak exactly where my new fuel pump is. I got underneath and it was coming from above the fuel pump. I got on top of it and I noticed that the return line that goes from the 1st injector on passenger side to the return line was leaking really bad and it was falling off. I’m trying to find replacement line that’s not a 25’ roll. I never had fuel to that injector before or it would have leaked. I don’t know if that means my IP is good or not but something is getting fuel to it. I will charge batteries and keep trying to work thru it. Non runner is difficult because you don’t know why and you have to work through the system.

I got some return lines cut to size from amazon. The end plugs are metal vs the plastic one on our trucks.

 

[TNDRIVER]

After cleaning the check valve and replacing the rubber hoses I’m getting a good amount of fuel at the filter inlet. I have the 2 rear injectors cracked open and I haven’t got fuel to come out yet. I do have fuel coming from the return on the IP cover. I noticed that I had a big fuel leak exactly where my new fuel pump is. I got underneath and it was coming from above the fuel pump. I got on top of it and I noticed that the return line that goes from the 1st injector on passenger side to the return line was leaking really bad and it was falling off. I’m trying to find replacement line that’s not a 25’ roll. I never had fuel to that injector before or it would have leaked. I don’t know if that means my IP is good or not but something is getting fuel to it. I will charge batteries and keep trying to work thru it. Non runner is difficult because you don’t know why and you have to work through the system.

If I remember correctly one of the big vendors sells a "kit" of these return lines, rated for diesel fuel.