- 6,862
- 9,503
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
Barring a problem with oil viscosity I have never heard of "too much oil pressure" unless you have some other indication of problems (IE noisy lifters etc.) I suspect you are overthinking this...
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
It's a diesel, it's noisy compared to any of the gasoline or rotary engines I have.Barring a problem with oil viscosity I have never heard of "too much oil pressure" unless you have some other indication of problems (IE noisy lifters etc.) I suspect you are overthinking this...
.It's a diesel, it's noisy compared to any of the gasoline or rotary engines I have.
But it's way above the range in the service manual, and that makes me nervous. The fact that it's not high across the entire range (like I would expect if something was clogged/pressure relief was bad) confuses me greatly.
All engine oil pumps have relief valves, if yours is say at 58LB then that is as high as it is going to get, hot or coldIt's a diesel, it's noisy compared to any of the gasoline or rotary engines I have.
But it's way above the range in the service manual, and that makes me nervous. The fact that it's not high across the entire range (like I would expect if something was clogged/pressure relief was bad) confuses me greatly.
Mine stayed the same when it didn’t have CDR and with new CDR. Gov planet just removed CDR and stuck hose inside of hose.A plugged CDR valve will cause higher pressures, too. I don't know how high that would go.
I think the best thing to do is check/ change fluids and drive the piss out of them. Mine has been sitting forever and the more I drive it better it gets.Ya, I've not checked the CDR at all. I'll add that to the list of things to check.
How is it these stories ALWAYS have some goofy back story??I think the best thing to do is check/ change fluids and drive the piss out of them. Mine has been sitting forever and the more I drive it better it gets.
Dealership? Whuh?I don't know. I've messaged the dealership I bought it from to ask. If I had to GUESS it would be 10W30 or 15W40.
I know with winter coming soon, I need to move to 10W30.
local specialty car used-car dealership. They normally sell classics (pre 1980) cars. Their usual mode is repair the seats, service the vehicle, repair/replace mechanical components that need it, repaint if necessary, etc..Dealership? Whuh?
Seems odd that the dealership would flush the brake lines.local specialty car used-car dealership. They normally sell classics (pre 1980) cars. Their usual mode is repair the seats, service the vehicle, repair/replace mechanical components that need it, repaint if necessary, etc..
They bought the M998 from someone as a trade-in, were going to 'hummer' it and then realized that made no sense financially. They did change all the fluids (I know both the mechanic and upholsterer that work for them.). All of the fluids and filters came from NAPA. But, they don't remember the oil weight they used in the engine.
But I do know the coolant was flushed and replaced with 50/50 green. The brake lines were flushed and replaced with fresh DOT 5. Fuel filter [under the hood] was replaced, air filter was replaced, all back in May. Differential oils replaced, hub oil replaced, ...etc...
As far as driving it, my housemate who is former Army and does a lot with the local American Legion had been driving it weekly since then to various parades. So I know it wasn't just 'sitting there'. (I got to drive it a few times before I bought it to/from parades...)
My intention is to drive it periodically come winter, probably once a week or so. Which is why I'm going over the vehicle system by system. Anything that doesn't look in spec (like the oil pressure at idle) I am questioning and trying to figure out if it's going to harm the vehicle, leave me stranded somewhere, etc.
I think you are confusing me with someone else. No smashed pan on this thing.So it had been driven to/from parades and such and all over the place with a smashed oil pan?
Seems odd that the dealership would flush the brake lines but not fix the pan...
And, they got an air filter at Napa?
This sounds like the dealership that wanted to charge me for a cabin air filter replacement in a Trailblazer. It doesn’t use one. Lol
Yes. You are right on the pan. I got these mixed upp. I will edit that. Thanks.I think you are confusing me with someone else. No smashed pan on this thing.
Underside of my M998 only shows some minor rust on the transmission oil pan, and a whole lot of dirty from off-roading in my pasture. . But there are no dents in any of the pans, and the pan surfaces are "original to the engine". (This was something I've looked at, alas no pictures though.)
Gotcha.But I do know the coolant was flushed and replaced with 50/50 green. The brake lines were flushed and replaced with fresh DOT 5. Fuel filter [under the hood] was replaced, air filter was replaced, all back in May. Differential oils replaced, hub oil replaced, ...etc...
The oil is black becauses of soot, common with diesel engines. My two cents is use Shell Rotella 15/40 with the Wix 51060 or NAPA 1060 (same filter) . You should see what the stuff looks like at 20000 or 25000 miles, and the oil analysis says its still good! Your pressure numbers look good. If its a new or rebuilt the idle numbers may come down but looks good to me. It's got PRESSURE, enjoy! No PRESSURE no joy!Ok, I've got a manual gauge, and also was able to hook up the tack. So I've got some "real" numbers.
6.5L (2004)
Cold idle - 600 RPMs - 35-40 PSI
Warm idle 650-700 RPMs - 30-40 PSI
55 MPH - 2800 RPMS - 55-57 PSI
55+ MPH - 3000 RPMS (roughly) - 57-58 PSI
The engine never exceeded 60 PSI.
In neutral (no load) at 2800 RPMs was about 52 PSI.
So at a _MINIMUM_ it appears to me that the idle oil pressure is WAY too high. I have no idea what could cause this. Any suggestions?
At speed/load the vehicle seems to match what others have told me to slightly high.
I know very little about Diesel engines, especially this type of problem. I'm looking for any idea what I should look at/investigate next.
I'm tempted to simply do an oil change/filter replacement. (The oil in the engine is _very_ black. I was told it was changed about 1000 miles ago when I bought it, but if it was a gasoline engine I'd certainly be doubting that based on how black the oil is.)
Edit:
Found this in the service manual:
STOP
6.2L IDLE (650 ± 25)
6.5L IDLE (700 ± 25)
6.5L DETUNED IDLE (700 ± 25)
20000 PSI
10-15 PSI
10-15 PSI
10-15 PSI
40-50 PSI
So stop and 2000 RPM are about right, but idle is _way_ off.
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!