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Whats everybody using in their blasters?

deuceman51

Member
885
9
18
Location
Scotland South Dakota
Was just curious what everybody is using with their sandblasters? I have been using plain old sifted beach sand, but is that a good idea? What type of sandblasters are you guys using? What is best for getting off rust, but not pitting the metal too badly. Could also use some good blasting advice also.

Thanks.
Deuceman
 

McGuyver

Member
466
7
18
Location
Utah
I heard recently about some people doing automotive restoration using baking soda in sand blasters. Story goes that it leave a nice finish and it washes right down the drain with no hassle from the EPA.
 

da_sgt

Member
555
4
18
Location
Rifle, Colorado
I like to use 70 grit<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_wink.gif" alt="Wink"> The key to blasting is a good DRY air supply. Remember to use a good respirator, eye protection, and ear plugs<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_wink.gif" alt="Wink">
 

Tony

New member
141
1
0
Location
Camarillo, Calif 93012
da sgt,
Thanks, I will pursue and see what I can dig up.
Have you used this process?..
I have used Star Sand #70 on wheel rims & Brake drums (out side)with good results. I think what I'm using is to coarse for fenders & sheet metal. Do you have any suggestions.
 

da_sgt

Member
555
4
18
Location
Rifle, Colorado
Tony;

I have'nt tried soda blasting, gets pricey to start up. But I've been flinging sand for about fifteen years. You can use a 70 grit on fenders and the like<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_wink.gif" alt="Wink"> But use <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_warn.gif" alt="Warning!"> Most people don't realize that blasting is a skill just like painting, you can't just pickup a gun and start blasting. The major enemy with blasting thin metals (fenders etc.)is heat which causes warpage and distortion<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_shock.gif" alt="Shock"> Just as with painting you need to adjust nozzel size, air presure, speed and distance from your work. The more you blast (if you like torture) the better you get<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_thumzup.gif" alt="Thumb Up"> I love torture so I guess that makes me a expert<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_big.gif" alt="Big Smile">
 

rdixiemiller

Active member
1,760
3
38
Location
Olive Branch Mississipi
Guys
There are several alternatives to sand blasting. For frames, axle housings, and other heavy parts, try high pressure water blasting. In my area we have a couple of industrial cleaning companies who use VHP (40,000 psi) pressure washers. I use them to blast the overspray off paint hangers and conveyors. The 40K unit will strip 2" of cured 2K urethane as fast as you can move the wand. They have been used to strip concrete truck frames down to be repainted. This process removes everything, paint, grease, and rust. As soon as it is dry, you hit it with some metal prep (phosphatizing compound) then prime. If you find a local company that has a blast booth, you could roll in a deuce frame assembly and have it cleaned up in about 2-3 hours. It removes no metal, just rust, paint, grease, etc.
For sheet metal, you can use dry-ice blasting. This is similar to sand blasting, but uses small pellets of dry ice. The thermal shock takes paint right off. The best thing about this process is it does not thin down your sheet metal like a sand blaster. The down side is it does not remove rust very well, in my experience. This is used in the aviation industry to strip aircraft. I saw a video of the original 707 prototype being blasted. When the job was finished, they swept up 2 or 3 barrels of paint chips. No damage to the metal, no stripping chemical waste.
There are also chemical strip companies. They use a large tank of hot caustic stripper to dip your parts. They are usually used to strip paint residue from painted parts that have cosmetic defects, so they can be repainted. They are also used to strip paint racks. There is a company in Atlanta called Eco Clean that can strip a pickup cab. I believe UnPaint can also handle an object that big.
Sandblasting is a good method, but like any process there are pro's and con's. Sometimes the price of a professional strip job looks high, but if you are buying sand, paying the electric bill for the compressor, or just too impatient to take all the time, there may be alternative methods to use.
If you live in an area where there is a good sized manufacturing base, there will probably be some paint stripping companies. Check them out, you may find some surprising alternatives to sandblasting.
Regards to All
Robert Miller
 

rmgill

Active member
2,479
14
38
Location
Decatur, Ga
I've used starblast. Low in silica (<3%) and very fine powder form that flows well in a siphon feed blaster. It's also very good at not taking any metal off the item being cleaned. It makes for a very nice satin finish on the metal that seems to take primer nicely. It's not super aggressive so it doesn't cut through heavy layers real fast, but it's not slow either. I've had good results with it in my light work.
 

allen84

New member
2
0
0
i've worked on and off for a few years with a company that blasts and paints excavating equipment, trains, cranes,ect. Obviously we use very course grit sand (black beauty pruducts) also we have a baking soda blaster. which i have never seen used since i've worked for them (but no way they'll get rid of anything, so don't ask) anyways, i've been told that the main purpose of soda blasting is for stipping aluminum because it won't warp the surface. i'm sure it would be good for fenders too but more expensive than sand. just have to be easy with thinner metal...keep more distance,sweep it, and use a lesser grit abrasive
 

mouse

New member
52
0
0
i am looking to use baking soda. it's wont warp the panels,its bio-degradeable so you can use it in your back yard if you want to, and if you do mess up ,grab a hand full and eat it :freaked: , it should stop the upset tummy.LOL. My truck is a every day driver , so im going to try it ,and i hope i dont have to worry about it getting into everything like sand
 

da_sgt

Member
555
4
18
Location
Rifle, Colorado
OK mouse;

First to use "Baking Soda" you need special equipment, which cost, well let's say a bunch. I have been blasting with sand for a very long time, never warped a single piece. If you know what your doing than it's just like anything else, painting, sanding, driving,breathing,walking....etc....Like to know what your local guy charges for "soda" blasting :confused:
 

mouse

New member
52
0
0
Im not looking to peee on anyone's boots ,but I have been doing body work & upholstery for over 25 years , from wisconsin to texas all the way mesa AZ and back. and yes you can warp a panel especially hoods, and the roof. www.armax.com is a sub. of arm & hammer, thay have 50# bags,and i think they have links to dealers around the US. Ace automotive cleaning equioment has a small house unit for about $250.00 .that should be big enouph for the average joe to do what is needed. you can also check out www.wetblast.com thay have a small unit to , but you will have to call for the $
 

da_sgt

Member
555
4
18
Location
Rifle, Colorado
mouse;

Don't worry about "peeing" on anyone's boots (most times I wear chest wader's) :lol: I did'nt say you "can't" warp, I said I never have because I know what I'm doing(got a few years on ya with bumpin metal) . You can warp a panel at the car wash if don't pay attention. Yup Ace has a soda blaster for $250.00 http://www.ace-sandblasting.com/soda-blasting.html But it holds ten pounds, not much good if your doing a whole truck. As for the "wetblast", its been a big debate on other site's along with using a high pressure washer, I just have a problem with using water to take off the paint to bare metal :shocked: Flash rust will start instantly, now "dry ice" is something I've heard of but not seen, or know the cost of, but seems to be a growing trend ;-)
 
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