Wheel Spacers - Aluminum or Steel ?

[Sharecropper]

I am putting together a set of 12-bolt HMMWV wheels to run on my M1028 during the summer months. I understand that I need to run 2" spacers on the front to compensate for the wheel's offset, and I also intend to run the spacers on the rear for proper tire tracking and looks.

The spacers are available in aluminum or steel. The steel spacers are much more expensive than the aluminum, and I am trying to make a decision which ones to purchase. We all know that aluminum is not as strong as steel, and a failure at this point in the drivetrain could be catastrophic under certain conditions.

Has anyone ever experienced a failure with an aluminum spacer? If cost was not a factor, why would you not use steel spacers?

I would like to see comments from other SS members who have used either or both materials for spacers.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

 

[Warthog]

While I have not used the aluminum spacers myself, I know a few that have. One of the issues that they have to pay attention to is the need to retighten the lug nuts. The aluminum is soft and after awhile the lug nuts will slightly crush the aluminum and cause the nuts to be loose. They are not backing off, just becoming loose.

If cost is not a factor, I would say the steel will server you well without the headache.

 

[Skinny]

I had aluminum spacers on my old Toyota with some pretty heavy offset wheels, never had a failure but I also established a 1,000 mile torque interval. Not a problem on a purpose built truck that rarely sees street time since I was already running through the suspension and steering bolts every month anyway. For a DD, I would hesitate to run them just on the maintenance needs. I personally would look at DRW hubs if you can find a set cheap enough. That way it is near OEM.

 

[jbayer]

You also have too think about dissimilar metal corrosion with Aluminum spacers.

 

[Skinny]

Also, spacers may not be legal or frowned upon during state inspection...just FYI

 

[cucvrus]

I personally have a set of Arrow Craft on an M1028 that I have been using as a plow truck and salt spreader truck for the last 18 years. Never had any issues. I put them on so I could put a flat bed on the truck and fit a stainless steel salt spreader on the back and still have room to carry several bags of salt on the sides for sidewalks and ramps. !8 years is a fair test. They are forged NOT cast (as I stand corrected by Mr Doghead) steel and I used regular steel Chevrolet Express cutaway chassis wheels. I have the adapters front and back. Almost the same as the OEM K30 plow truck. Also i apologize to everyone for being a jerk and posting very inaccurate information on this site since I joined. Funny thing is I have 6 CUCV's in my fold and service about 10 other ones for locals and fire departments. Sorry for being such a poor source for information.

 

[doghead]

Forged steel, most likely (not cast).

 

[cucvrus]

Whatever. They rusted a little and that is all I know. And they still go around and around without any issues. Always with the technicality.

 

[doghead]

Big difference.

You have posted some very incorrect and bad advice since you've joined.

It's hard to keep this site top notch, with "whatever" answers.

Being "technically correct", is what people need. Not Whatever...

 

[Sharecropper]

Thanks everyone for your comments. I will purchase steel spacers. Now to find the best source............

 

[lostintexas]

I used aluminum spacer on my old CJ7 for years, drove the Jeep 35 miles each way to work everyday. Right at first they would get loose and had to tighten them up. After about 6 months they stopped doing it. I continued to check them regularly but no issues after that. Remember that spacers change your geometry slightly and add more load to your axle shafts and bearings. Remember to check them whether you go with the steel or the aluminum. Also, I would suggest the minimum width to get the required clearance, more is not better on this.

 

[Sharecropper]

OK, I have found my steel spacers from an outfit in Texas. He said they come with 14 x 1.5 studs and locknuts for my M1028.

Does this sound correct?

 

[dstang97]

OK, I have found my steel spacers from an outfit in Texas. He said they come with 14 x 1.5 studs and locknuts for my M1028.

Does this sound correct?

You need the 9/16 ones. I run the aluminum spacers. I have 10k on the set and they have been great. Pm me if you need the link.

 

[Sharecropper]

What is the thread of the lugnuts? Is this information listed anywhere in the TM?

I believe they are 9/16" x 18. If anybody can confirm this I will greatly appreciate it.

 

[dstang97]

What is the thread of the lugnuts? Is this information listed anywhere in the TM?

I believe they are 9/16" x 18. If anybody can confirm this I will greatly appreciate it.

14mm are for 88+ trucks. you need 9/16" ones

 

[rlltide12]

Is there any particular reason you are wanting to run hmmwv wheels? A set of steelies in the correct back spacing from someone like summit racing seems like the safer and probably cheaper idea. I know people run them without issues, but i just dont like the idea of wheel spacers. Too many failure points.

 

[Chaski]

If you buy the spacers with the 14mm studs you can just use the lug nuts they send on the studs, and buy plain Jane 9/16 nuts to secure the spacers to your hubs. The 9/16" studs are about .011" larger than the 14mm. Only catch would be buying 9/16 lugs small enough to fit in the counterbore of the spacers.

Your studs are 9/16 x 18tpi.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

If you buy the spacers with the 14mm studs you can just use the lug nuts they send on the studs, and buy plain Jane 9/16 nuts to secure the spacers to your hubs.

Bleh. That suggestion gives me the willies. While I can't see any reason it won't work, you are introducing an unnecessary complication which creates an opportunity for Mr. Murphy to whack you.

I wouldn't mix them if I could avoid it. Keep it simple.

 

[Chaski]

Bleh. That suggestion gives me the willies. While I can't see any reason it won't work, you are introducing an unnecessary complication which creates an opportunity for Mr. Murphy to whack you.

I wouldn't mix them if I could avoid it. Keep it simple.

Once the spacers are installed there is no reason to remove them for normal maintenance. I agree that it would be better to have them manufactured with 9/16" studs. One of the steel wheel spacer retailers I posted on an earlier thread by Sharecropper says they will build exactly what you desire. Might be worth the extra money, might not. All that being said the CUCV has a nice mix of fasteners on it from good old General Motors. Working on any vehicle requires being aware.

 

[Skinny]

I will tell you that the ProComp 16.5" wheels are on a 4-8 week back order if you are wanting to go the plain jane steelie route. Ask me how I know