Where to find a glow plug module.

[m38inmaine]

I have three bad ones if someone needs one to work on.

 

[Warthog]

I have a couple of bad cards here in OKC.

Send me your addr and Santa will make a delivery................

 

[niferous]

Also if anyone knows where we can get a schematic for the card that would be worth ten times it's weight in gold. The main cost I am looking at is the R&D to tear this thing apart and figure it out. My source said if he had a schematic he could start cranking these things out for next to nothing.

 

[gaunt1969]

Gp controller

I have just spent a few hours repairing mine. They are very robust and not much to them. If you have any bad ones you would like me to look at I would be happy to. Pm me and I will send you my address.
If these are going for around $300 I think I will make a few solid state drop-in replacement. The function of these are simple. If temp is below x-deg come on for y-seconds. Not to tough to make with a pic controller.

 

[m38inmaine]

PM sent

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

SHHHHHHH, I am the high bidder. BTW, What is the best way to clean the conecctors? I was thinking of blowing it with a can of computer key board air?

An old Navy trick to clean contacts is to use an ordinary pencil eraser and rub the contacts. The rubber in the eraser contains pumice, an abrasive, and rubbing contacts will clean them up quick.

 

[gaunt1969]

The gp ckt is not to hard to diag what are your symptoms

 

[JWNathan]

Wow a solid state drop in would be great! Im sure one of the vendors of MV parts out there would like to offer these up as they seem like a piece that would sell quite well.
-Jesse

 

[Mudstone]

any update on the new cards?

 

[gaunt1969]

working onit

 

[Mudstone]

i'm getting desperate.. let me know. and gaunt i do believe you might be my favorite lol

 

[crownjewel4]

Looks like the prices are going strong on ebay. Guess I will need to start getting rid of my large excess stock of gp cards. I did send one to a guy on saying if it works send me some money plus shipping. Guess it didn't work since I never heard back one way or the other (zing).

Carnac,

Is this part referenced the Glow Plug Solenoid that is mounted on the firewall behind the air cleaner?

I need one for my M1009, and just recovered a M1008 that was removed by the Motor Pool.
I am desperate,
Can you help?
Thanks much,

 

[crownjewel4]

Carnac,

Is this part referenced the Glow Plug Solenoid that is mounted on the firewall behind the air cleaner?

I need one for my M1009, and just recovered a M1008 that was removed by the Motor Pool.
I am desperate,
Can you help?
Thanks much,

I am looking for the glow plug solenoid that mounts on the firewall, behind the air cleaner. I surely need 1, but could use 2. After searching other threads, I am clear as mud, as to where to find.
Anyone that can help, please respond.
Thanks much,

 

[APN-59]

You guys are making this glow plug thing too complicated.

First of all, the card has a single-sided layout. Any high-school kid can make one for you.

The contacts on the board are low-quality tin. Like someone said earlier, use a pencil eraser to clean the crud off and then wipe it clean with simple alcohol.

The mating plug has robust connectors. Use your wife's cardboard fingernail file and cut the round end off square. Move it in and out of the connector about a dozen times. Use clean air to blow out the dirt.

From what I've seen of the board, and correct me if I'm wrong, but there are a handful of 'ordinary' electronic parts, a large plastic relay, and one electronic IC chip. When the truck was designed, the GP designer wasn't going to use an incredibly expensive custom-designed IC chip. No doubt he used a readily available controller chip to keep the cost down. Warping ahead to today, that IC chip is probably obsolete. So, if you have to replace the chip, here's what I would do.

Look at the alphabet soup printed on the top of the chip. Probably two lines. One line is the manufacturing date and other useless data. The other line has two letters and then numbers. The letters are the code for the IC chip maker, and the numbers are the chip model number. Enter that line in Google in your computer. You will then get a hundred hits telling you what the chip is and who made it. Perhaps even if its still being made.

If the chip is obsolete, there are a number of businesses that buy and sell obsolete parts. I haven't Googled 'obsolets chips' but its a start.

The relay is a common part any electronics supplier should carry. The manufacturer and model number are printed on the side.

This may seem a lot of work for such a trivial board, but $300 is not trivial in my book. I've been reading your threads for a while, and you guys deserve a tip of the hat for all the work and skill you put into your trucks.

I'm not talking out my ***. I've been doing this kind of electronics work for quite a spell. I f anyone wants to talk more about repairing these boards, you can reach me at hooray5@yahoo.com.

And a great big thanks to all you vets for what you've done for our country!

 

[APN-59]

You guys are making this glow plug thing too complicated.

First of all, the card has a single-sided layout. Any high-school kid can make one for you.

The contacts on the board are low-quality tin. Like someone said earlier, use a pencil eraser to clean the crud off and then wipe it clean with simple alcohol.

The mating plug has robust connectors. Use your wife's cardboard fingernail file and cut the round end off square. Move it in and out of the connector about a dozen times. Use clean air to blow out the dirt.

From what I've seen of the board, and correct me if I'm wrong, but there are a handful of 'ordinary' electronic parts, a large plastic relay, and one electronic IC chip. When the truck was designed, the GP designer wasn't going to use an incredibly expensive custom-designed IC chip. No doubt he used a readily available controller chip to keep the cost down. Warping ahead to today, that IC chip is probably obsolete. So, if you have to replace the chip, here's what I would do.

Look at the alphabet soup printed on the top of the chip. Probably two lines. One line is the manufacturing date and other useless data. The other line has two letters and then numbers. The letters are the code for the IC chip maker, and the numbers are the chip model number. Enter that line in Google in your computer. You will then get a hundred hits telling you what the chip is and who made it. Perhaps even if its still being made.

If the chip is obsolete, there are a number of businesses that buy and sell obsolete parts. I haven't Googled 'obsolets chips' but its a start.

The relay is a common part any electronics supplier should carry. The manufacturer and model number are printed on the side.

This may seem a lot of work for such a trivial board, but $300 is not trivial in my book. I've been reading your threads for a while, and you guys deserve a tip of the hat for all the work and skill you put into your trucks.

I'm not talking out my ***. I've been doing this kind of electronics work for quite a spell. I f anyone wants to talk more about repairing these boards, you can reach me at hooray5@yahoo.com.

And a great big thanks to all you vets for what you've done for our country!

 

[crownjewel4]

You guys are making this glow plug thing too complicated.

First of all, the card has a single-sided layout. Any high-school kid can make one for you.

The contacts on the board are low-quality tin. Like someone said earlier, use a pencil eraser to clean the crud off and then wipe it clean with simple alcohol.

The mating plug has robust connectors. Use your wife's cardboard fingernail file and cut the round end off square. Move it in and out of the connector about a dozen times. Use clean air to blow out the dirt.

From what I've seen of the board, and correct me if I'm wrong, but there are a handful of 'ordinary' electronic parts, a large plastic relay, and one electronic IC chip. When the truck was designed, the GP designer wasn't going to use an incredibly expensive custom-designed IC chip. No doubt he used a readily available controller chip to keep the cost down. Warping ahead to today, that IC chip is probably obsolete. So, if you have to replace the chip, here's what I would do.

Look at the alphabet soup printed on the top of the chip. Probably two lines. One line is the manufacturing date and other useless data. The other line has two letters and then numbers. The letters are the code for the IC chip maker, and the numbers are the chip model number. Enter that line in Google in your computer. You will then get a hundred hits telling you what the chip is and who made it. Perhaps even if its still being made.

If the chip is obsolete, there are a number of businesses that buy and sell obsolete parts. I haven't Googled 'obsolets chips' but its a start.

The relay is a common part any electronics supplier should carry. The manufacturer and model number are printed on the side.

This may seem a lot of work for such a trivial board, but $300 is not trivial in my book. I've been reading your threads for a while, and you guys deserve a tip of the hat for all the work and skill you put into your trucks.

I'm not talking out my ***. I've been doing this kind of electronics work for quite a spell. I f anyone wants to talk more about repairing these boards, you can reach me at hooray5@yahoo.com.

And a great big thanks to all you vets for what you've done for our country!

If you read the information above you would see, the thread starts with looking for the glow plug solenoid, the part that mounts on the firewall behind the air cleaner, next to the master cylinder. That is what I am looking for, and what the persone that started the thread was seeking. We all know the importance of "searching threads before posting", and that is exactly what I did.
Just need some help in locating this. Still clear as mud.
Thanks,

 

[overkill375]

napa st-85 it is in there electronics book works perfect

 

[zyrtecx]

If you want the REAL MILITARY GLOW PLUG RELAY.... that is mounted on the firewall, Here is where you can get one!

PJ POWER INC
483 N.W. 68th Ave.
Ocala, Fl. 34482
Phone - 877.710.9053

Call them and tell them that you want the following:

TROMBETTA RELAY #974-1215-010-09
Cost is $34.50 plus shipping and they ship fast using UPS.
I purchased two from them at a cost of $81.96 and that was with shipping.

This is the relay that the Military replaced the original relay with and that are on all CUCV's...
If you have any questions PM me.

 

[akonitony]

I would use MAFF sensor cleaner and a brass brush. You can get one of those brass toothbrush-looking ones and cut part of the bristle part off with only one or two rows left, then use a microtorch to heat up the neck near where the bristols start, and bend it so the bristles are pointing straight out - in line with the handle. Then you can gently brush off the contacts and use the cleaner to make sure there is no residue. Regular compressed air should work fine to blow them off.

 

[crownjewel4]

If you want the REAL MILITARY GLOW PLUG RELAY.... that is mounted on the firewall, Here is where you can get one!

PJ POWER INC
483 N.W. 68th Ave.
Ocala, Fl. 34482
Phone - 877.710.9053

Call them and tell them that you want the following:

TROMBETTA RELAY #974-1215-010-09
Cost is $34.50 plus shipping and they ship fast using UPS.
I purchased two from them at a cost of $81.96 and that was with shipping.

This is the relay that the Military replaced the original relay with and that are on all CUCV's...
If you have any questions PM me.

I called P&J this morning to place the order. I read the part number above, and placed the order. I told Mark it was for a CUCV with 24 volt system. He said that part #974-1215-010-09 was 12 volt relay. I just wanted to verify this was correct, he does have the 24 volt available it is part # 974-2415-010-09. I told him to wait to place until I verified. Appreciate the help, P&J sounds very helpful, and interested.
Send or PM or post reply.

Thanks again,