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Where to get a new starter?

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,333
9,882
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
M10 X 1.5 bolt grade 9.8 40 ft lb. M10 x 1.5 grade 10.9 48 ft lb. I would make them tight with a 3/8" ratchet and call it a day. If in doubt get the torque wrench out. The flange bolt is preferred but not always available. Use an SAE M10 flat washer.
 

olly hondro

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
876
512
93
Location
tucson AZ
A guy walked into a starter repair shop. He needed a replacement starter for his M1009. The guy said hey put this gear reduction starter on and you don't need the support bracket. The 28MT is a lighter starter and won't need that extra support.

I was told this story several times by guys with flywheels that were chewed out and broken bolts in the block. On Sunday a member here talked to me and it was mentioned again. He was told/suggested the same deal. Wrong answer. That also controls the force /twist from the compression of the diesel engine. The starter support must be in place. MUST be NOT OPTIONAL.

28MT GM still available PN 23502557 less then $20. list price
The direct drive is discontinued and can be made easily. I had a few fabricated to exact standards. Just wanted to mention it. The block hole at the support to block is metric M8 1.25 NOT 5/16 NC thread. The end on the starter stud I recommend a nylock flange or a nylock and a flat washer 1/4" x 20 NC thread nut.
"A guy walked into a starter repair shop." I was waiting for "he banged his head, it really hurt":)
 
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
Thanks Rick,

I used a 3/8 ratchet to remove the starter bolts, and was surprised that it didn't take much effort to get them out. Use of a washer is a good idea when using the new bolts.

M10 X 1.5 bolt grade 9.8 40 ft lb. M10 x 1.5 grade 10.9 48 ft lb. I would make them tight with a 3/8" ratchet and call it a day. If in doubt get the torque wrench out. The flange bolt is preferred but not always available. Use an SAE M10 flat washer.
 
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