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Which calipers for disc conversion

POOR WHITE BOY

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Looks very good. Looks oem . I understand your parking brake in the other thread . E brake needs to be mechanical - please post and nice job

NO NEED FOR SPOON FED - I TRIED TO DOWNLOAD LINK TO PHOTOS -WOULD NOT WORK ON MY COMPUTER
 
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tsmall07

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Everything you need to know:

Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.


There is a Cadillac caliper that you can use that has a cable operated parking brake incorporated into the caliper, but they're very expensive. I was planning on putting a rotor on the drive shaft and using a small motorcycle caliper for the parking brake. It won't do much to stop me in an emergency, but it will let me pass inspection. With the gearing in the CUCV, it's easy enough to slow down by downshifting. Plus, you can just run into something and stop pretty easily.
 
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Sorry that was a cheapshot.
My mechanical E Brake will either be a cable operated pinion brake or a brake mounted on the NP205 that is in my M1028 CUCV I have a Mico hydraulic parking brake setup until I find or build the E Brake that I have confidence in or build one myself.

GM used the same Dana60 slider caliper in the rear from about 99-07 range according to some GM parts bulletins I have seen and from talking to various parts counter men.

I have a CNC Mill and Lathe so I am only limited by my imagination.

You spoke about the studs not being pressed fit into the rotors, while this is true everything that is like this from what I have seen are mostly a slip fit from the front and are installed over the studs not the studs being passed through the rotors and then pressed into the hubs.

This IMO is a horse of a different color and or is not the same as how the rotors are a slip onto the studs on the front side of the rotor.

This setup makes the brake system a lot easier to service than the rotors behind the hubs.


Looks very good. Looks oem . I understand your parking brake in the other thread . E brake needs to be mechanical - please post and nice job

NO NEED FOR SPOON FED - I TRIED TO DOWNLOAD LINK TO PHOTOS -WOULD NOT WORK ON MY COMPUTER


 

dstang97

Well-known member
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Location
Clover, SC
Are you running a proportioning valve with that setup. seems with that set up it would lock them up real easy.



Sorry that was a cheapshot.
My mechanical E Brake will either be a cable operated pinion brake or a brake mounted on the NP205 that is in my M1028 CUCV I have a Mico hydraulic parking brake setup until I find or build the E Brake that I have confidence in or build one myself.

GM used the same Dana60 slider caliper in the rear from about 99-07 range according to some GM parts bulletins I have seen and from talking to various parts counter men.

I have a CNC Mill and Lathe so I am only limited by my imagination.

You spoke about the studs not being pressed fit into the rotors, while this is true everything that is like this from what I have seen are mostly a slip fit from the front and are installed over the studs not the studs being passed through the rotors and then pressed into the hubs.

This IMO is a horse of a different color and or is not the same as how the rotors are a slip onto the studs on the front side of the rotor.

This setup makes the brake system a lot easier to service than the rotors behind the hubs.
 
Ive been looking for a good prop valve, Have not found one that neets my requirements just yet.

I just saw the one JWNathan posted a link to and will be having a look at that.

I wanted to mount the prop valve in the transmission hump or behind the seat on the left side but that would require running alot of extra brake line so on the dash looks to be the location.

I still want to mount it on the valve stem and not with bolts at 90 degrees to the stem as shown in this pic.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-g3905_cp.jpg

This is more like what I had in mind.
http://www.coloradomustang.com/SQLCart/Images/Large/100714.jpg
Mustang Disc Brake Proportioning Valve 64 - 73: Brakes &amp Conversions - Colorado Mustang Specialists Inc.


Are you running a proportioning valve with that setup. seems with that set up it would lock them up real easy.
 

dstang97

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Clover, SC
This is more like what I had in mind.
http://www.coloradomustang.com/SQLCart/Images/Large/100714.jpg
Mustang Disc Brake Proportioning Valve 64 - 73: Brakes &amp Conversions - Colorado Mustang Specialists Inc.[/quote]

I tried that one and it was complete junk. It would not let it bleed all the air out. I tried everything then the stupid plastic nob broke so I said screw it and rean with out it. In my application it worked mint, but that was on my k10 with out hydroboost, and k10 callipers on the back. It makes your truck respond 1000x better.

I mounted mine under the truck where the load lever would be.
 

JWNathan

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Portland OR
Really dstang97? A couple friends use them on their roundy pounders with good luck. I know with my ElCamino I hung the valve right up at the master, made bleeding much quicker. Tho that was a Willwood piece. May just try one anyway, Summit never gives you much hassle to return stuff.

Heres the valve I used before http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-8419/
-Jesse
 
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puppy

Member
62
1
8
Location
Rives, TN
Some conversions need a adjustable proportioning valve and some don't.

I ran a Wilwood one on my rockcrawler. My 87 K10 didn't require one.
 

4bogginchevys

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rathdrum idaho
I was looking at the Ruff Stuff brackets, mainly because they are a local company.
14 Bolt Disc Brake Caliper Mounting Bracket (Standard SRW) [6090031] - $50.00

I should be able to get everything for the swap for around $270. Looks like it wont take to long to do either, looks very straight forward. I think I even still have enough DOT5 for the swp and brake flush. Thanks guys.
-Jesse
I already have all other parts for the conversion except for the short flexible brake line so I ordered the brackets....has anyone here used these brackets? What do you think? The truck they are going on started as a half ton, i am told that no change to the proportioning valve is necassary...is that right?
Thanks
 

puppy

Member
62
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Location
Rives, TN
I have a set of Ruff Stuff brackets on the shelf that I haven't gotten around to using yet. I like the one piece style of these brackets.
 

ODdave

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lansing michigan
if you wanna spend $$$ then just put a newer style 14bolt housing w/factory disk brakes....... thats what i have and you can buy any replacement part off the shelf for them. prolly get a whole axle for $500 and you will have the bigger pinion bearing and the stronger housing............ just my 2cents

OH YEA, and a factory cable opp. parking brake
 

davo727

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18
Location
Cleveland, TX , Spring , TX
As far as the eldorado emergency brake style caliper , I will guess that with the truck actually moving if you try the emer brake and step on it as hard as you can you wont actually notice any braking force. It just looks good on there.
 

doodaa

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ashaway RI
can you use older gears in newer housing?I have 1985 14 bolt ff with detroit locker.I'd like to put dual wheels on ultimately
 

4bogginchevys

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rathdrum idaho
my 2003 2500hd has disc and is a 14FF
Trucks that new dont show up here at the local yard, next door to where I go there is a Yard called spaldings, they sell used parts off of newer trucks but the cost us unreal. 6000.00 for a 5.3, 12000.00 for a viper motor, 750.00 for that disc FF you mentioned....better off to stay next door and spend 2.00 to get in, and 115.00 for ANY engine, complete rear axle 65.00, driveline 10.00 etc. The newest vehicle there is about 2000, but only little cars...kia's and crap. Thanks for the info on that axle, I didn't know they still made the FF for the trucks.
 

4bogginchevys

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rathdrum idaho
Well, got the ruff stuff brakets on the truck today.....

Unfortunately they had to be modified for the caliper, the plasma cutter must have been off or something. The correct calipers just wouldn't quite slip on to the brackets. Grinder fixed that..... I see a couple others have mentioned the same brackets, any problems??

The truck stops well, very well. Instead of risking air bubbles trapped in the caliper we blead them in the up right position before bolting to the bracket, worked very well. A few taps from a wooden hammer handle and the remaining air came right to the bleeder for the final bleed on each side. If interested I can post more pics.
 

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