While the radiator is off...

[DieselBob]

I've tried searching the TM (the -20 PDF file) for this topic but I tried searching "main bearing seal" "front bearing seal" etc to no avail. What section?

Here ya go.

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]TM [/FONT][FONT=Arial, sans-serif]9-2320-361-34,[/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, serif] Section 3-4, page 3-10[/FONT]

 

[JCKnife]

I just had a similar problem with the heat going out of sight and I changed the thermostat and radiator cap. No luck, it turns out it was a small pinhole leak in the radiator. But you would notice a leak I hope.

Cost $55 to have them pressurize the radiator to 14-15psi and the re-soldered everything and that included putting the mounting bracket back on.

Works great now but I have not road tested it yet.

sw

Boy if a pinhole leak caused that, maybe my leaky radiator cap IS the culprit. Whoda thunk it?

Edit: Thanks, DieselBob!

 

[gimpyrobb]

I don't know why you would replace that seal unless it is leaking. Is that the seal behind the harmonic dampener?

 

[Mark2X2]

JCKnife,
Have the radiator boiled at a radiator shop, someone could have replaced the coolant on a plugged radiator. You can dilly whack trying to flush it yourself, you won't get unplugged like a shop with a tank.

 

[Garandfan]

Putting a new lower hose (NAPA 7372 cut 1 inch on each end) on is easier with the radiator off. Put the end to the block first then put the radiator back in and connect the other end. But while you have the radiator out, Get that compressor pulley loose. Spray PB Blaster and let sit. If it will not spin, work a flat head screw driver carefully into get those dog ears to open them up. It will take time. Replace the belts and buy yourself an extra compressor belt. Clean the radiator well before you install-use a radiator cleaner from NAPA. Not sure if you were aware of this, but there is a coolant drain cock on the block just above the starter. Drain the coolant from the block and flush.

 

[swbradley1]

Boy if a pinhole leak caused that, maybe my leaky radiator cap IS the culprit. Whoda thunk it?

Edit: Thanks, DieselBob!

Yep. Everything was fine when I left and I only got three miles down the road before she overheated.



sw

 

[JCKnife]

Putting a new lower hose (NAPA 7372 cut 1 inch on each end) on is easier with the radiator off. Put the end to the block first then put the radiator back in and connect the other end. But while you have the radiator out, Get that compressor pulley loose. Spray PB Blaster and let sit. If it will not spin, work a flat head screw driver carefully into get those dog ears to open them up. It will take time. Replace the belts and buy yourself an extra compressor belt. Clean the radiator well before you install-use a radiator cleaner from NAPA. Not sure if you were aware of this, but there is a coolant drain cock on the block just above the starter. Drain the coolant from the block and flush.

Yes I did open the block drain yesterday and got some additional coolant out. Alltogether I probably got between 8-9 gallons out, which is pretty close to capacity.

Thanks for the pointer on the lower hose I had written down NAPA part 7759 from the resources link above?

 

[Heavysteven]

Question; does the fan make this a pain? Seems like it's in the way. Thoughts

Good thread going to be doing this next week.

 

[swbradley1]

It was in the way when I tried to remove the radiator. It's only 4 bolts so it isn't a big deal.

Putting the radiator back in the new lower hose went in first on the engine side and after I set the radiator in the bottom bolt holes I connected the other end of the hose. Without putting any nuts on the bottom I tilted it forward and put the fan back on.

Then I put the grounding nut on and the springs on and the large nuts. Then the top nut/bolt.

sw

 

[swbradley1]

I forgot to put in the NAPA part numbers off my receipt.

Radiator cap 703-1418
Thermostat seal 4662
Thermostat 358-180

 

[JCKnife]

I forgot to put in the NAPA part numbers off my receipt.

Radiator cap 703-1418
Thermostat seal 4462
Thermostat 358-180

Hmm I got the seal # 4662.

 

[Garandfan]

You are right. The NAPA # is 7759, I had the gates cross reference 7372. 8 or 9 gallons of Coolant! You must have one of those hard to find special motors-- ldt 465 1D-SC "SC" for Super Cool! LOL. Should have been 32 quarts. Remove fan first. If you have a winch, use a piece of cardboard on the front of the radiator your don't poke through.

 

[swbradley1]

Hmm I got the seal # 4662.

Darn fat fingered typing. Yes, 4662. I corrected the post.

sw

 

[JCKnife]

OK, making some progress today. Got the compressor belt off (thanks for the wrench loan, gimpy!) and I'm headed to Napa for parts.

WHAT is the trick for getting the old seal (the metal ring with the rubber gasket) out of the thermostat housing body? I've tried needle-nose pliers and hitting the edge with a punch, but it won't budge!

 

[3rdmdqm]

Great thread! My truck has also been experiencing overheating problems. Runs fine at idle and low speed but at highway speed or if there are hills involved truck heats to just over the 200-210 mark (which isn't too bad really but bothers me). I took mine to a radiator shop and had the tech look at it. He has been doing radiator repair and rebuilds from scratch his entire career. As soon as I told him the symptoms he said there is blockage in the radiator. These radiators are gravity flow from the top tank down to the bottom. As corrosion and residue builds up in the vertical tubes, it begins to restrict the waterflow enough to overheat under load conditions. My next project will be removing the radiator so they can fully inspect it and go from there. It also has a small leak which I was able to get stopped using "stop leak" but I'm sure that's not helping the free flow issue either. It will either be a rod it out, rebuild it completely or buy a new one. Sounds like rebuilding is just as expensive as buying a new one so if its too far gone a new one it will be. Also had the coolant spitting out of the cap issue when it got around 200. Turns out once it found its happy fluid level this stopped (I apparently overfilled and it didn't like it, it seems to be happy where you can just barely see the fluid in the bottom of the neck). I'll also be replacing the thermostat and seal so I'm also eagerly awaiting the tips on getting the seal out.

 

[JCKnife]

Well, crap. That seal is oxidized to the housing and I can't get it out. I tried using a tiny punch and hobby hammer to curl the lip in and separate it from the edge. In doing so I knocked out a piece of the housing itself (the inner ring where the seal sits).

I guess now I'm looking for a new t-stat housing. ****.

 

[Stretch44875]

On the lower radaitor hose. First I recommend pulling the alternator bracket on the side of the block off. 3 bolts, 5/8 head. You can leave the alt. attached. This will give you much more room to work with. It can be done with the bracket there, and I've done it, but would still been much easier and quicker to pull the alternator.

Second when installing the hose clamp to the water pump, make sure the worm gear on the clamp faces away from the alternator. It will reduce the amount you can adjust the alternator when removing belts enough to make it a real pain to replace belts.

Third, the napa hose can work, and I've make them work. But be extra careful no part of the hose can rub or touch anything. If they touch anything, it will wear a hole in the hose. You are better off buying a lower hose from a MV parts dealer, they have an extra bend in them that makes it much easier to install.

The used belts and hoses get thrown in the truck as spares.

Dennis

 

[JCKnife]

OK, well, the housing might be OK. Since I had knocked off a bit of the inner lip I went ahead and used the dremel to get the seal out. I pushed out all the lip that was cracked, and maybe 1/3 of it is gone. But it looks to me like I can get a new seal in there and it will seat OK. I think I'll try to move forward with it like it is.

 

[gimpyrobb]

If you want, I have a T-stat housing. LMK

 

[JCKnife]

I think this one will be good to go. I'ma try it, anyway.