While the radiator is off...

[gimpyrobb]

I would take it out of the equation and remove the short dog bone connecting the batterys.

 

[Garandfan]

The locking bolts on the compressor pulley ARE on alternate sides!

 

[JCKnife]

The locking bolts on the compressor pulley ARE on alternate sides!

Yep, that much was plain when I put it back together. But I swear when I took it apart, they had been installed from the same side. I wish I had a picture to back that up.


Anyway, Autozone tested the batteries and one was bad. Got 2 new ones at Wal Mart (hey, I buy plenty at Autozone but not batteries). Will have to fab some spacers in the batt. box and put it all together later.

 

[JCKnife]

Well, after all that drama, turns out I have a bad sending unit and / or temp gauge. I put everything back together and she started right up. Idled in the driveway for maybe 10 minutes and got up to 180 on the gauge. But as soon as I gave it gas to leave it started jumping. 1/4 mile down the road it was over 200 and jumping back and forth a little. If I flip the accessory switch off and back on again, it goes to 180 and starts climbing from there again, right away.

Overall drove maybe 3/4 mile and parked back in the driveway. Left her running and opened the hood, got out my IR thermometer (laser pointer thingy). Highest temp I could find on the radiator was near 150 at the top. The T-stat housing was 172. The water manifold was 170. I think the highest temp I found was the engine block right around 180.

But hey, I got new belts and hoses, and the radiator flushed...and new batteries. And I learned some things.

Overall the toughest thing was getting that little seal out of the T-stat housing. I still don't know a good way to do that without breaking one. That would be a good trick to learn if someone knows, for future reference.

Thanks for reading. I'll post more when I decide to change the sending unit (in a new thread, maybe...)

 

[WillWagner]

Verify the dash gauge with a known good one. Remember electric gauges are prone to failure more than mechanical gauges.

 

[Heavysteven]

changing the sending unit is a cake walk. i had a friend hold the heater hoses out of the way, unplug the old one/screw it out, screw the new one in, and plug it back into the harness. If your quick you might not lose that much coolant.

Any thoughts on installing a heater plug?

 

[JCKnife]

A heater plug? I'm not even sure what that is...you don't mean like a block heater do you?

 

[Heavysteven]

A heater plug? I'm not even sure what that is...you don't mean like a block heater do you?

Yeap, a block heater plug. I bought one after reading a thread, but since i dont have a problem starting in the cold i never put it in.

The photo below shows the location of the temp sending unit. FOr those who are interested.

 

[JCKnife]

Nah, mine always started pretty well in the cold also. If I did have any issues, they were battery-related, and those should be solved now...

Thanks, though.

 

[Heavysteven]

Hey, I got my radiator back from the shop and purchased the lower radiator hose from OD Iron. Going to change it out this Friday.

I am posting because i need some help with parts. Do you happen to remeber the size/diameter of the upper radiator hose, hoses from the pumps, and the two hoses going to the personal heater?

Thanks,
Steven

 

[Heavysteven]

Upper radiator hose looks like 1 3/4". Guessing the lines that run across the engine are 1/2".

 

[OD_Coyote]

I just replaced my upper and lower radiator hoses as part of my cooling system PM and the upper hose I got from NAPA was P/N 613 which is a 2" ID hose per their specs. See the link below.

Store Locator | NAPA Online

 

[Garandfan]

Upper hose is 2". The water intake manifold are 1 5/8 ID, I think... correct me if I am wrong. I had a rough time getting them.

 

[Heavysteven]

I am going to order from Mcmaster.

5296K421
High-Temp/Medium-Pressure Coolant Hose 2" ID, 2-3/8" OD, 50 PSI, Blue

Thanks guys

 

[runk]

That is the hose I used, I replaced all of mine, including all the little short hoses (been on for about 6 months now) -
5296k411, 1-3/4"ID, 2-18"OD - qty 1'
5296k421, 2"ID, 2-3/8"OD - qty 1'
5296k321, 5/8"ID, 1"OD - qty 12' (heater hoses)
and, because they did not have the size-
5285k139, 1-5/8"ID, 2"OD - qty 1'

clamps-
5574k15, 5574k19, 5574k18

 

[wsucougarx]

great thread. very useful

 

[Heavysteven]

Here is a picture of the hoses from McMaster Carr. The quality is excellent.

 

[wsucougarx]

I just got a 3' stick of 2" NAPA radiator hose and a 50' spool of 5/8" Goodyear heater hose to do my 3 trucks. I'll cut the hoses to length. I did, however, went with NOS 2002 USGI lower radiator hose as the "Newer" New Star stuff is plagued with complaints on rubber qualitiy. With the location and having to pull the radiator to get in there, I am not going to skim on quality for the lower hose, IMHO.

Cost:
3' stick 2" radiator hose NAPA-$44
50' roll of 5/8" Goodyear hose-$14
USGI NOS lower radiator hose-$25
WIX 24019 Coolant Filter housing-$28 shipped
Baldwin Coolant Filter-$11

 

[Heavysteven]

Does putting that filter in series reduce the heating capacity on the personal
Heater?

Excellent install

 

[Truckie]

Great Thread _ Just pulled my Radiator because of a pinhole leak and will be replacing all of the hoses, thermostat and belts Thanks for the info