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Work on the War Pig continues

russ81

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Lol, that looks great.

And think of it as our way of a polite request :)

Hey guys, I love this web site, and I love working on my truck. Any thing I can do to help other people enjoy it also I'm all for.

I was originally making the pictures small because they kept getting rejected for being to large. Just trying to figure things out as as I go.
 

frodobaggins

Active member
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Hey guys, I love this web site, and I love working on my truck. Any thing I can do to help other people enjoy it also I'm all for.

I was originally making the pictures small because they kept getting rejected for being to large. Just trying to figure things out as as I go.
Well the size you just posted work just fine for me.

Love the wheels & tires.
 

phataux

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Hey guys, I love this web site, and I love working on my truck. Any thing I can do to help other people enjoy it also I'm all for.

I was originally making the pictures small because they kept getting rejected for being to large. Just trying to figure things out as as I go.

new size is great as well as the stinger
 

russ81

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looks great!
which side is the exhaust manifold on a 5.9?
how/ where are you planning to route exhaust?

The exhaust is on the passengers side. I'm debating on several different things. Duel stacks sticking out of the bed are always cool looking. A single stack sticking out of the bed would be efficient and still cool. A single run under the frame and out the back would work well, and keep the bed clean.

I'm sorry......duel stack sticking out of the bed is really the only option for this truck. The others may work fine, but none are near as cool looking. This truck is just oozing bad a** tough. Nothing else will look right.
 

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,330
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duel stack sticking out of the bed
I imagine you will need to cut holes in the bed way bigger than the pipes themselves due to frame flex.

Speaking of which, has anyone checked how much bobbed trucks' frames flex? I am amazed how much the frame can flex on a stock deuce.
 

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russ81

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I've thought about the frame flex issue. I think the answer would be to hard pipe the exhaust stack to the bed, but then add about 2' of flex between the bed and the engine. This would allow the motor to flex and the bed and frame to flex with out putting a strain on having hard pipe run from the motor to the exhaust tip. Plus I think that would also greatly reduce the harmonics. I know I'm factoring in a point of exhaust leak, but with a little care in fabrication I think that to could be eliminated.
 

mudguppy

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most all exhaust stack kits incorporate a piece of flex right before the elbow going up through the bed. usually only about a foot, but you're on the right track, nonetheless. and yes, the stacks are secured to the bed in some fashion - usually a bracket to the sides or front edge of the bed.
 

fastcanuck

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electronics swap

great build . loving it

ive got some experience with the dodge ecm stuff and as a tie in with my existing biz i intend to swap a newer 6.7 cummins into my soon to be mine m series.

My experience is more to do with the dpf stuff and related off roading performance mods but it should translate. if you have not removed the engine from the donor truck yet i would recommend taking it to a friendly dealer nearby and get them to flash the ecm now before the swap . tell them what tranny you want them to flash it to and leave it at that unless you know the dealer well enough to know they wont be trying to soak you.

after that i would recommend swaping as many of the remaining electronics into the War Pig (great name) as you can stomach. that 24v will be great in there but you have heard correct in that you will want to keep the ecm happy (ie ; no check engine light) in order to get proper fuel mileage and power out of it.

other than that your best bet would be to get friendly with a dodge tech and see if you can talk him to bringing home the starscan device from the shop. this is the device used by dealers to flash ecm's . with the help of a decent tech and a starscan or starmobile you should be able to customize that ecm to handle what your doing. as a side note you can purchase a startool but then using it is a whole other can o worms
 
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russ81

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thank you much for the assistance my northern brother! LOL

I've already pulled the motor, and didn't know anything about "flashing" the ecm. I did keep all of the wiring harness together, and I do plan on keeping and many of the electronics as i can. i.e. dash cluster and fuel pump/unit.
 

fastcanuck

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) my pleasure.

Id bet you did ok snagging an 03 for that swap . should give you some options as to how to tackle it . tap the guys in the cummins forum 98.5-02 Performance Parts Discussion - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
with your engine and see what they`ve done . i know they would love to see what your putting in into .

should be some ways to get what you want and not deal with ecm but you will not have push button power on demand.

To keep the ecm and have a programmer that you can use to set tunes on demand may be nifty and doable but id bet your best way to that one will be to cosy up to the closest dodge dealership service writer and negotiate a tech and his tools for an afteroon when the time comes to try and make that motor work properly in there.
 
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Recovry4x4

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I imagine you will need to cut holes in the bed way bigger than the pipes themselves due to frame flex.

Speaking of which, has anyone checked how much bobbed trucks' frames flex? I am amazed how much the frame can flex on a stock deuce.
That section of trail looks strangely familiar!
 

mudguppy

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... To keep the ecm and have a programmer that you can use to set tunes on demand may be nifty and doable but id bet your best way to that one will be to cosy up to the closest dodge dealership service writer and negotiate a tech and his tools for an afteroon when the time comes try make that motor work properly in there.
maybe you can answer my original question: why is this claimed as necessary when no one else (at TheDieselGarage) doing a CR cummins swap has to do anything associated w/ the dealer?
 

fastcanuck

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maybe you can answer my original question: why is this claimed as necessary when no one else (at TheDieselGarage) doing a CR cummins swap has to do anything associated w/ the dealer?
I hope i didnt come off as saying its "necessary" . lets see if i can spew whats it my head without confusing it anything further.

the ecm is using a bunch of signals from various parts of the truck to alter injection timing, and rail pressure. if one eliminates those signals without changing the ecm accordingly the ecm will go into a pre-set fueling program . not the best, it will work, but you wont be getting what you paid for out of your programmer/tuner or engine.

IF the ecm is seeing all the signals it thinks its supposed to it goes into what is called closed loop . it will react in real time to mass airflow,manifold pressure's, tranny slippage ,egt, what ever its been programed to look for (not sure on the o3). closed loop is what you want if your going to leave an electronically controlled injector pump on. dont NEED it but you may want it.

a local diesel performance shop may even have the tools needed to alter the programing or another option may be something like a smarty MADS Electronics - Smarty - CaTCHER - Smarty06
might be able to deal with the issues an deliver big power regardless of dtc's. you may want to contact them and see if they would be interested in helping you with a custom tune for the build. not unheard of if it showcases what they can do .

other than that the simplest way to do this kind of swap and make big power would be to p-pump it . this would take the ecm out of the fueling equation BUT also mean you would have break out the wrenches to turn the power up or down and you will want to go to a set of aftermarket gauges to properly monitor the engine.

My only reason for retaining a stock ecm is for the poops ang giggles of being able to push a button on the fly and get milage or push another button and get big coal rolling power. that and it will make a good show piece for what im working on as far as the newer 6.7 cummins.

sorry for the book just spilling the brain. may not all be 100% accurate but i hope it helps .

In the end id work backwards, ie: dont care about changing power levels on demand ? not to worried about maximizing mileage ? or wringing every drop of power out of that mill ? then p-pump it and let the coal roll.

want to play with power levels and see just how many miles per gallon you can get then work towards an ecm controlled pump/injectors and closed loop.
 
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mudguppy

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awesome, Russ'!! gonna need lots of info on your motor and transmission mounts. heck, want to make a second set?? i'd be willing to pay you for your time... :-D
 
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