Keith_J
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If you have the same harness, it is quite easy to test out of the vehicle as the wires are color coded. Now, if you have a broken connection in the multi-pin light switch connector, it is pretty easy to take apart.
First, you must remove it from the light switch. Pull back enough of the tape to expose the troublesome circuit and remove the smaller nut on the back of the shell. This is the packing gland nut, it compresses the rubber insert, locking the wires and sealing them.
Now with a long 1/8" pin punch, push the connector out. Use heat and a wire brush to clean, then use proper 60-40 tin-lead rosin core solder. Or 63-37 electronic solder, NOT 50-50 acid core or any other solder. If you have a small drill bit, cleaning the solder socket will help the bond. IMHO, these are nickel plated because nickle oxide conducts but it is hard to solder. Removing the nickel plate allows the brass to make a much better physical connection.
First, you must remove it from the light switch. Pull back enough of the tape to expose the troublesome circuit and remove the smaller nut on the back of the shell. This is the packing gland nut, it compresses the rubber insert, locking the wires and sealing them.
Now with a long 1/8" pin punch, push the connector out. Use heat and a wire brush to clean, then use proper 60-40 tin-lead rosin core solder. Or 63-37 electronic solder, NOT 50-50 acid core or any other solder. If you have a small drill bit, cleaning the solder socket will help the bond. IMHO, these are nickel plated because nickle oxide conducts but it is hard to solder. Removing the nickel plate allows the brass to make a much better physical connection.