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Would you pay $17,000.00 for a M1009?

KansasBobcat

Member
641
8
18
Location
San Antonio, TX
I think what you are willing to pay depends on what your goals are. Would I pay anything for the one listed? No, because as I see it, it got neutered the moment the gas engine went in and the 24V system was disabled and a lot of things don't look right. Would I knowing what I know now, if possible pay $12-$14K for something like Desert Eagle had listed, you bet. I bought my rust free, running m1009 for 4K, a year later I have replaced just about everything rubber, just about every failure prone engine part except the injector pump(harmonic balancer, lift pump, water pump, etc), the entire cooling system, I have an AC kit ready to install, I fixed the tailgate, I have welded up the seat tears in the floorpan and primed them, new suspension, new brakes all around, even the lines and valve, replaced countless clamps and bolts that came loose and were lost in its life, doghead mod, rebuilt the alternators, reupholsterd seats, new tires and I still need to do bodywork and paint, I want to sprayline the interior and add some sound deadening, so I am in $10-12K, just on a payment plan and I think if most of us are honest with ourselves, we have done the same thing. On the otherhand, I know what was done, I know it was done right and I see a lot of $10-$15K CUCV's that look nice, but none of the mechanical stuff was done, it just looks good, so still figure on $2-4K in work more if you want AC, spraylining, etc and that is a suckers deal. I bought this for the fun of working on it and for a reliable hunting truck, but to drive 150-200 miles to a lease and back, it needs to be reliable and that takes time and money and I can more easily afford it at $250 a month and $4K down. Do I ever think I will get that out of it, no, but I also have no plans to get rid of it, if the engine goes it will be getting a 6.5.
I think this is a helpful and informative post for potential CUCV buyers in todays world.
 

sschaefer3

New member
212
3
0
Location
Tempe, AZ
I think what you are willing to pay depends on what your goals are. Would I pay anything for the one listed? No, because as I see it, it got neutered the moment the gas engine went in and the 24V system was disabled and a lot of things don't look right. Would I knowing what I know now, if possible pay $12-$14K for something like Desert Eagle had listed, you bet. I bought my rust free, running m1009 for 4K, a year later I have replaced just about everything rubber, just about every failure prone engine part except the injector pump(harmonic balancer, lift pump, water pump, etc), the entire cooling system, I have an AC kit ready to install, I fixed the tailgate, I have welded up the seat tears in the floorpan and primed them, new suspension, new brakes all around, even the lines and valve, replaced countless clamps and bolts that came loose and were lost in its life, doghead mod, rebuilt the alternators, reupholsterd seats, new tires and I still need to do bodywork and paint, I want to sprayline the interior and add some sound deadening, so I am in $10-12K, just on a payment plan and I think if most of us are honest with ourselves, we have done the same thing. On the otherhand, I know what was done, I know it was done right and I see a lot of $10-$15K CUCV's that look nice, but none of the mechanical stuff was done, it just looks good, so still figure on $2-4K in work more if you want AC, spraylining, etc and that is a suckers deal. I bought this for the fun of working on it and for a reliable hunting truck, but to drive 150-200 miles to a lease and back, it needs to be reliable and that takes time and money and I can more easily afford it at $250 a month and $4K down. Do I ever think I will get that out of it, no, but I also have no plans to get rid of it, if the engine goes it will be getting a 6.5.
I have spent a fortune on my M1008 doing all the maintenance as well, I even did the IP pump. I can't ever sell it, same reason. I have AC too and an entire new interior.
 

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
I finally saw the ad, not going to post it, but like stated before, not too hard to find.

I would agree with some others, it sounds like this owner is having a hard time realizing that sentimental value is not a true value when selling a vehicle.
There are several things wrong with the ad but some things get me, like features that are not really features at all like the U-bolt inversion, What?

My only hope is that he finds that one person that desperately needs that truck and is willing to drop that amount of coin to get it.
I know everyone sees value in different ways, but this may be stretching it a bit.

Who ever you are, Good Luck!
 

thz71

Member
159
0
16
Location
Waverly ia.
I think what you are willing to pay depends on what your goals are. Would I pay anything for the one listed? No, because as I see it, it got neutered the moment the gas engine went in and the 24V system was disabled and a lot of things don't look right. Would I knowing what I know now, if possible pay $12-$14K for something like Desert Eagle had listed, you bet. I bought my rust free, running m1009 for 4K, a year later I have replaced just about everything rubber, just about every failure prone engine part except the injector pump(harmonic balancer, lift pump, water pump, etc), the entire cooling system, I have an AC kit ready to install, I fixed the tailgate, I have welded up the seat tears in the floorpan and primed them, new suspension, new brakes all around, even the lines and valve, replaced countless clamps and bolts that came loose and were lost in its life, doghead mod, rebuilt the alternators, reupholsterd seats, new tires and I still need to do bodywork and paint, I want to sprayline the interior and add some sound deadening, so I am in $10-12K, just on a payment plan and I think if most of us are honest with ourselves, we have done the same thing. On the otherhand, I know what was done, I know it was done right and I see a lot of $10-$15K CUCV's that look nice, but none of the mechanical stuff was done, it just looks good, so still figure on $2-4K in work more if you want AC, spraylining, etc and that is a suckers deal. I bought this for the fun of working on it and for a reliable hunting truck, but to drive 150-200 miles to a lease and back, it needs to be reliable and that takes time and money and I can more easily afford it at $250 a month and $4K down. Do I ever think I will get that out of it, no, but I also have no plans to get rid of it, if the engine goes it will be getting a 6.5.
12v>24v Any sbc>6.2. 6.5s are junk

I finally saw the ad, not going to post it, but like stated before, not too hard to find.

I would agree with some others, it sounds like this owner is having a hard time realizing that sentimental value is not a true value when selling a vehicle.
There are several things wrong with the ad but some things get me, like features that are not really features at all like the U-bolt inversion, What?

My only hope is that he finds that one person that desperately needs that truck and is willing to drop that amount of coin to get it.
I know everyone sees value in different ways, but this may be stretching it a bit.

Who ever you are, Good Luck!
A u bolt flip is a good modification. How they should have been from the factory.
 

Rvitko

New member
139
2
0
Location
Austin tx
For my purposes where I may be weekending in the truck, 24v for an electric truck cab heater and running mil surp tools/ cooking equipment, 24v can't be beat for the reserve cap.


I haven't had a non diesel vehicle in over a decade, don't see ever going back. I will acknowledge the detroit is far from the best diesel but an old mechanical diesel stays running, once running, you are not at the mercy of batteries, ignition systems, alternators. If you can just get it started, even a trickle is enough to keep the fuel solenoid open, but not enough to keep plugs firing. If I did a 6.5, I would use an early mech pump without the computer and a hmmv block. As a general rule diesels will last longer, they are built to withstand much higher internal pressures, a rule of thumb is a gasser is a 150,000 mile engine before overhaul, a diesel is a 250,000 mile engine. Not to mention being able to use, veg oil, ATF, home heating oil, kerosene, etc in a pinch and the safety of diesel over gasoline.


I can see why someone would do it different, if they wanted speed and didn't stray far from civilization, but that is why the truck in question has no value to me, but I don't think the price is ridiculous for one that would meet my needs. I will be paying close to that anyway, just in installments. A case in point, a neighbor is restoring a civilian blazer from the same time period, younger guy, he only understands fuel injection, that is what he did, if I had a gasser, I would want a carb, I can rebuild a carb and I loathe electronics. For him, fuel injection is what he knows and he has never done a carburetor.
 
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