Would you replace these brake rotors?

[diesel_dave]

Been hearing a squealing sound that lingers after braking intermittently. Pretty sure its the rear brakes because I can influence the sound by pulling on the parking brake lever. When I took a look, I noticed that one pad is wearing faster than the other which is probably not being helped by the complete lack of lubrication anywhere on the calipers. So I was going to just pull the brakes apart and lubricate everything until I noticed the rotors are wearing with a noticeable lip on the outer rim. What would you guys do? Just lubricate everything and put it back together or go ahead and replace the pads and rotors while the brakes are tore apart?

Would these vented rotors work for my M1152 truck? https://midwestmilitaryequipment.com/rear-12k-gvw-brake-kit-with-vented-rotor-for-humvee-hmmwv/

Also I should mention, the rear parking brakes are not dragging. When the lever is down, the pads can easily be wiggled around.

 

[rcamacho]

Mic the rotors for min thickness. If they are above min, turn them with a pad replacement. Else replace


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[Mullaney]

Been hearing a squealing sound that lingers after braking intermittently. Pretty sure its the rear brakes because I can influence the sound by pulling on the parking brake lever. When I took a look, I noticed that one pad is wearing faster than the other which is probably not being helped by the complete lack of lubrication anywhere on the calipers. So I was going to just pull the brakes apart and lubricate everything until I noticed the rotors are wearing with a noticeable lip on the outer rim. What would you guys do? Just lubricate everything and put it back together or go ahead and replace the pads and rotors while the brakes are tore apart?

Would these vented rotors work for my M1152 truck? https://midwestmilitaryequipment.com/rear-12k-gvw-brake-kit-with-vented-rotor-for-humvee-hmmwv/

Also I should mention, the rear parking brakes are not dragging. When the lever is down, the pads can easily be wiggled around.

.
Everybody has an opinion... Having never seen a brand new HMMWV brake caliper, I would expect it to be perfectly smooth on the entire surface. I wouldn't expect to see a lip like that. The other logical part is that I would imagine you (the previous owner) would have replaced pads several times to get that much wear on the rotors.

Somewhere in the TM's we might find a minimum rotor thickness dimension.
I would see what you can discover before spending any money.

EDIT: @rcamacho posted the same idea as I was typing my similar comment.

 

[diesel_dave]

Anyone have a guess what it costs to get all four rotors turned? I read elsewhere someone said it's almost not worth the cost compared to just getting new rotors. An added bonus would be that the new ones would be vented. At least I think that's a bonus?

I'll try to get my calipers on there and get a measurement. Just eyeballing it, I'd say there's plenty of meat left. Just that dang lip is bothering me. I have a hunch that it's contributing or causing the squeek as the lip rubs on the pad material. I've never actually seen rotors wear like this on any other vehicle I've had.

 

[porkysplace]

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Everybody has an opinion... Having never seen a brand new HMMWV brake caliper, I would expect it to be perfectly smooth on the entire surface. I wouldn't expect to see a lip like that. The other logical part is that I would imagine you (the previous owner) would have replaced pads several times to get that much wear on the rotors.

Somewhere in the TM's we might find a minimum rotor thickness dimension.
I would see what you can discover before spending any money.

EDIT: @rcamacho posted the same idea as I was typing my similar comment.

The minimum thickness should be on the rotor someplace .

 

[porkysplace]

Anyone have a guess what it costs to get all four rotors turned? I read elsewhere someone said it's almost not worth the cost compared to just getting new rotors. An added bonus would be that the new ones would be vented. At least I think that's a bonus?

I'll try to get my calipers on there and get a measurement. Just eyeballing it, I'd say there's plenty of meat left. Just that dang lip is bothering me. I have a hunch that it's contributing or causing the squeek as the lip rubs on the pad material. I've never actually seen rotors wear like this on any other vehicle I've had.

Around here it's about $15-25 a rotor , but not many shops left that turn them . Just swap for new china crap.

 

[Guyfang]

RTB. Do not just guess. Read the book.

2. Inspect rotor (19) for cracks, wear, elongated holes, and warping. Replace if defective, or rotor thickness is less than 5/32 in. (4 mm).

 

[diesel_dave]

I'm kind of leaning towards just replacing the rotors if I'm already going to be ripping the truck apart to get to them then have to try and find somewhere to turn all four for ~$100. Anyone know if those ones I linked above are the correct ones for my truck? I believe it needs the 12" rotors but I'm not 100% if I can swap in the vented rotors when the original ones were solid?

 

[Action]

I dont think you can just toss vented rotors on there. The hole in middle of rotor is different sizes between 12” solid and 12” vented.

 

[diesel_dave]

I dont think you can just toss vented rotors on there. The hole in middle of rotor is different sizes between 12” solid and 12” vented.

Oh shoot! Really? Guess I need to do more research.

 

[Karl kostman]

Like what was said look at the TMs and if your rotors still have good wear left in them I would leave them and have them turned then install new pad clean and lubricate according to the TMs and wear them out. If your pads arent dragging the rotors on the vehicle might just be crappy metal causing the premature wear? If that was your thoughts then I would replace them. As long as nothing is dragging , the amount of wear is concerning!

 

[diesel_dave]

Like what was said look at the TMs and if your rotors still have good wear left in them I would leave them and have them turned then install new pad clean and lubricate according to the TMs and wear them out. If your pads arent dragging the rotors on the vehicle might just be crappy metal causing the premature wear? If that was your thoughts then I would replace them. As long as nothing is dragging , the amount of wear is concerning!

Odometer only shows 10k miles and I have no reason to doubt that. It's a 2006 and doesn't have any unusual wear that would make it seem like it's got way more miles on it. The rotors do seem unusually worn even though the brakes don't seem to be dragging. I think I want to replace them and be done with it but I need to figure out if I can install the vented rotors or not.

 

[diesel_dave]

I dont think you can just toss vented rotors on there. The hole in middle of rotor is different sizes between 12” solid and 12” vented.

After some more research it looks like you were correct. The solid and vented rotors are not cross compatible. Looks like I have to stick with solid rotors after all which may change my calculus if I can find a shop that will machine them down smooth for a reasonable price. New ones are like 70-80 bucks which isn't horrible.

 

[springer1981]

Short of a full brake rotor inspection and disassembly that lip doesn't look like a problem. Most brake rotors wear the same way because the pads don't overhang the rotor and wear the rotor only where they touch. Turning the rotor just insures the rotors are flat and the sides are parallel to each other.

If the lip is the only issue there are ways to deal with that on the truck but if you haven't done it before it's also dangerous ... soft of. It involves the wheels moving on a lift and talking a file to the edge of the brake rotor. I use a file to take ridges off parts on my lathe, also to bevel edges etc. If you're not use to it the file can catch up on the part and it then becomes a flying object that will go through most stuff in its way, especially arms and heads etc. I'm use to it and I'm extra cautious every time I do it. I would not recommend it if you are accident prone, unlucky, never did anything like it before, like to be alive, have a wife and kids etc. You get the picture.

Edit: I will also add that lip probably isn't your squeal. Autopart stores sell Brake Anti-Squeal that you put on the back of the pads. The back of the pad rubs against the brake caliper piston and squeals.

 

[diesel_dave]

Short of a full brake rotor inspection and disassembly that lip doesn't look like a problem. Most brake rotors wear the same way because the pads don't overhang the rotor and wear the rotor only where they touch. Turning the rotor just insures the rotors are flat and the sides are parallel each other.

If the lip is the only issue there are ways to deal with that on the truck but if you haven't done it before it's also dangerous ... soft of. It involves the wheels moving on a lift and talking a file to the edge of the brake rotor. I use a file to take ridges off parts on my lathe, also to bevel edges etc. If you're not use to it the file can catch up on the part and it then becomes a flying object that will go through most stuff in its way, especially arms and heads etc. I'm use to it and I'm extra cautious every time I do it. I would not recommend it if you are accident prone, unlucky, never did anything like it before, like to be alive, have a wife and kids etc. You get the picture.

Edit: I will also add that lip probably isn't your squeal. Autopart stores sell Brake Anti-Squeal that you put on the back of the pads. The back of the pad rubs against the brake caliper piston and squeals.

One of the pics online of the new solid rotor has min thick 20.7 mm stamped on it so I'll measure mine the next time I'm under there. If you don't think the lip is an issue, I may just leave the rotors alone as long as they are thick enough and just replace the pads and lubricate everything real well. I'll have to call some vendors tomorrow to confirm which pads I need because there are apparently different pads for vented and solid and I've found conflicting info on which PN is correct.

 

[springer1981]

One of the pics online of the new solid rotor has min thick 20.7 mm stamped on it so I'll measure mine the next time I'm under there. If you don't think the lip is an issue, I may just leave the rotors alone as long as they are thick enough and just replace the pads and lubricate everything real well. I'll have to call some vendors tomorrow to confirm which pads I need because there are apparently different pads for vented and solid and I've found conflicting info on which PN is correct.

Edit: Actually on second look the piston side pad looks about half gone. I'd just replace the pads of the rotor surfaces are smooth with no significant grooves. Put the brake anti-squeal on the back of all the pads and let dry before installing.

 

[diesel_dave]

The pads in your picture look plenty thick. If the rotor surface feels smooth and doesn't have grooves in it then I would touch any of it yet. I'f go to the autoparts store and by some break anti-squeal. Most new pads come with it. You could probably use a screw driver and carefully compress the piston enough to then be able to apply some brake anti-squeal to the back of the pad without taking it all apart. Or you could pull the calipers and add it that way.

The pics are representative of all four wheels so if all I need to do is take it apart and apply brake grease that I already have a jar of, that would be awesome and save me around $600. I'll see if I can push the calipers in with some kind of contraption so I can apply grease without taking them off, but it might be difficult on the rears with the e-brake that needs to be turned and pushed.

 

[porkysplace]

One of the pics online of the new solid rotor has min thick 20.7 mm stamped on it so I'll measure mine the next time I'm under there. If you don't think the lip is an issue, I may just leave the rotors alone as long as they are thick enough and just replace the pads and lubricate everything real well. I'll have to call some vendors tomorrow to confirm which pads I need because there are apparently different pads for vented and solid and I've found conflicting info on which PN is correct.

The biggest issue with just swapping the pads is you are putting new pads on heat glazed rotors witch will glaze the new pads . You really have to clean them up
and make sure there are no ultra fine heat cracks or warpage .

edit; spelling

 

[diesel_dave]

The biggest issue with just swapping the pads is you are putting new pads on heat glazed rotors with will glaze the new pads . You really have to clean them up
and make sure there are no ultra fine heat cracks or warpage .

And I had forgotten that I will need to take the calipers off to grease the slide pins anyways. I found solid OEM rotors on epay for $85 shipped each. If it's going to run $20 to have each rotor cleaned up at a brake shop, I'd rather spend $60 more (per rotor) and just get entirely new ones since mine do have a bit more wear than I'd expect anyways. At this point I'm about to flip a coin to decide which way to go. Haha

Appreciate everyone's opinions! Thanks

 

[Maxjeep1]

I would rather turn what I got. That rotor is so thick and it’s solid. I don’t know where the eBay rotors are made but probably not here. You can get some really nice brake pads for the money you would save by turning them. I don’t like replacing things and I have been taking stuff in and having it rebuilt and put the same part back on.