rmgill
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How'd it taste when it was done?
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XM757 steering
- Thread starter cranetruck
- Start date
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Hmm, good, if it's still as nice and smooth tomorrow, I'll prepare one more for lunch then.
At room temp now it feels real tight and smooth and I can turn it by hand. This is so great!
At room temp now it feels real tight and smooth and I can turn it by hand. This is so great!
- 5,251
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Great solution Bjorn! I was getting ready to suggest tapping the 1/8" hole, putting in a grease Zerk and using one of those grease injectors you smack with a hammer to force grease in. Your cooking solution should be better though since it will expand the joint and lower the viscosity of the oil allowing it to fully penetrate the joint. I can't wait to come see it!
JDToumanian
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Interesting solution... Glad to hear it worked! That will save some serious $$$ for use elsewhere.
The 'deflection temperature' for Delrin is around 260 degrees F., and the melting point seems to vary but is usually listed around 340-350 degrees F., so maybe you used just enough heat to loosen it up but didn't get it hot enough to melt the inserts and cause damage. I thought the melting point was higher, I had it in my mind that the melting point was closer to Teflon, which is around 500 degrees F. I guess I suffer from C.R.S. syndrome!
Jon
The 'deflection temperature' for Delrin is around 260 degrees F., and the melting point seems to vary but is usually listed around 340-350 degrees F., so maybe you used just enough heat to loosen it up but didn't get it hot enough to melt the inserts and cause damage. I thought the melting point was higher, I had it in my mind that the melting point was closer to Teflon, which is around 500 degrees F. I guess I suffer from C.R.S. syndrome!
Jon
- 10,350
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- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
A tierod cook-out. 
It's suspended from the ceiling and only the ball joint is in the oil.
The cap of the ball joint housing is drilled as shown earlier and there are tiny bubbles emerging from the 1/8" hole. The oil is about 280°F and I let it "cook" for 4 hours.
Later, the hole will be sealed with a self tapping screw and a small neoprene washer.
It's suspended from the ceiling and only the ball joint is in the oil.
The cap of the ball joint housing is drilled as shown earlier and there are tiny bubbles emerging from the 1/8" hole. The oil is about 280°F and I let it "cook" for 4 hours.
Later, the hole will be sealed with a self tapping screw and a small neoprene washer.
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- 3,657
- 27
- 48
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
Bjorn you are a genius!
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Pulled the tie rod from the oil bath a while ago and it's as smooth as the first one. Easy to turn by hand and very tight. I do wonder how they were when they left the assembly line 37 years ago...
As far as penetrants, the one end of the tierod that I did yesterday had been soaked for a couple of weeks in "Heat valve lubricant" while the end done this morning had been soaked in CLP. Neither one had much effect and the torque required to turn them was still about 60 ft-lb. 4 hours in hot oil did the job.
I'll do the next one without any penetrant at all.
As far as penetrants, the one end of the tierod that I did yesterday had been soaked for a couple of weeks in "Heat valve lubricant" while the end done this morning had been soaked in CLP. Neither one had much effect and the torque required to turn them was still about 60 ft-lb. 4 hours in hot oil did the job.
I'll do the next one without any penetrant at all.
- 7,055
- 138
- 63
- Location
- Mid Hudson Valley NY
Best I can do with NSN is O&S LLC phone 734-449-4401 part # 6005 The part ahs been discontinued without replacement, as expeted for a truck the DOD doesnt use anymore.. Give them a call, see what happens...
- 10,350
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- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Pulled ball joint #8 out of the hot oil bath a while ago. They all turn with less than 10 ft-lb of torque now, a far cry from the 70 or so.
Still have 3 of them to go....
Mark, thanks for the lead, but doesn't look like I'll need replacements any longer.
Still have 3 of them to go....
Mark, thanks for the lead, but doesn't look like I'll need replacements any longer.
- 34,013
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- 113
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- GA Mountains
Hey Bjorn, what's the NSN on the balljoint cooker?
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Attachments
It's a good thing you found a successful method to loosen the tie rod ends or that could have been your next avatar!
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Last ball joint, number 11, will be done around midnight tonight. I'm doing the ones on the pwr steering cylinder without disconnecting the hydraulics (see image).
The procedure is very effective, had one on the front drag link peg the indicator on my torque wrench, which is about 140 ft-lb and after four hours in the hot oil it could be turned by hand.
The procedure is very effective, had one on the front drag link peg the indicator on my torque wrench, which is about 140 ft-lb and after four hours in the hot oil it could be turned by hand.
Attachments
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
This drawing shows all the ball joints.
Attachments
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Almost at the end of this thread. Installed all links this afternoon, after all ball joints were nice and smoth. The caps were sealed and primed, for painting later.
I can now turn the steering wheel with very little effort with both front axles on blocks.
Still need to chase a couple of threads, which were damaged when the studs were removed. Also need a new castle nut and a dozed cotter pins.
BTW, the one ball joint whith a zerk fitting needed no attention.
Wheel alignment is next.
I can now turn the steering wheel with very little effort with both front axles on blocks.
Still need to chase a couple of threads, which were damaged when the studs were removed. Also need a new castle nut and a dozed cotter pins.
BTW, the one ball joint whith a zerk fitting needed no attention.
Wheel alignment is next.
- 34,013
- 1,817
- 113
- Location
- GA Mountains
Speaking of steering, I was straining to read the fine print in the Sam Winer advertisment in MVM and stumbled across a NOS front axle for the M656. Thinking it was $795. Nice to know where it is in case of a catastrophic failure.
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Thanks Kenny, if I had the funds, I'd stock up on all the parts for this rarther rare piece of equipment. It's the little things that will be a problem, such as steering knuckle boots and ducts for the heating system etc.
devilman96
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Memphis has the boots and the heater duct can be had from Napa or several other sources...
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Thanks for the input Mike, but Memphis does not have the boots and NAPA may have the tubular portion of the duct works, but hardly the diverter or nozzle parts, typically shown here.
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jhooah
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- 135
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- 18
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- Carrollton/Virginia
Heater DUCTS
Bjorn:
Just started in on your thread, glad to see the cooking idea, put that one in the back of my head for future reference.
As to the HEater DUCTS, two possible options.
Worst case, prototyping machines can now make the parts out of nylon (or heat resistant material) with just a scanned picture given dimensions. Likely to cost around $500, but it's a guess.
Possibility #2, if it's a Ford, check on other large Ford trucks made around the same or earlier years....My bet is Ford (being Ford) reused other assembly line parts whenever practical. F600 and up series would likely have the parts. Heck they may have loved the design so much later trucks used it.
I had to wonder how your homebrew fuel has worked in this really cold snap we've been having lately. The wife's old Mercedes required additive, seems the ground tanks down here in Tidewater Area weren't selling Winter Grade mix.
V/R Adrian Winget
Maybe see you up at Aberdeen, spaces Green A9-A11 this year.
william.winget (at) jfcom.mil
Bjorn:
Just started in on your thread, glad to see the cooking idea, put that one in the back of my head for future reference.
As to the HEater DUCTS, two possible options.
Worst case, prototyping machines can now make the parts out of nylon (or heat resistant material) with just a scanned picture given dimensions. Likely to cost around $500, but it's a guess.
Possibility #2, if it's a Ford, check on other large Ford trucks made around the same or earlier years....My bet is Ford (being Ford) reused other assembly line parts whenever practical. F600 and up series would likely have the parts. Heck they may have loved the design so much later trucks used it.
I had to wonder how your homebrew fuel has worked in this really cold snap we've been having lately. The wife's old Mercedes required additive, seems the ground tanks down here in Tidewater Area weren't selling Winter Grade mix.
V/R Adrian Winget
Maybe see you up at Aberdeen, spaces Green A9-A11 this year.
william.winget (at) jfcom.mil