Yet another blown head gasket

[m-35tom]

probably from the injector not being tight enough. the copper seal under it is to stop compression leakage. only thing to do is have them tested, unless it ran good, then don't.
i will say i rarely test injectors and find them all ok, mostly some have issues, but still run.

tom

 

[stumps]

Is there an advantage to the old style vs the new style? I know they have the vent for the cylinder sleeve, but is that really necessary?

The only reason I can figure out for the vented style is one that becomes apparent when you think of the truck's mission: get-er-done war machine.

Multifuel engines have seriously high compression ratios, 22.5-to-1. There are all manner of sorts of abuse the engine could suffer that would make a head gasket blow. I think the vents are there so that if the head pressure gets too high (for whatever reason), and the head gasket is going to blow, it will blow in the direction of the vent. That little feature could save your life if the head gasket were to blow when you were in a dangerous situation. Here's why: If the head gasket blew in the direction of the water jacket, the radiator would likely burst. If it blew in the direction of an oil gallery, the truck would pump itself dry. But if it blew in the direction of the vent, only the affected cylinder would be disabled, and the truck would still soldier on. It could go for months with a head gasket blown that way.

-Chuck

 

[kastein]

Just bringing this back up to say thanks mckeeranger for the specs in that last post... the only thing that kept me from getting my truck working again Saturday was being in NH with no internet connection, and my tech manual for some reason didn't give a torque spec for those blasted injector clamp bolts! Not wanting to overtorque them I bailed and decided to get the info and go back later to finish the job. 150-175 in-lbs, will remember...

Would have been done months ago but the fixer upper house I bought has been running me ragged, and broke besides.

Any idea what the flare nuts for the injector tubes from the IP to the injectors should be torqued to? Tough to get a torque wrench onto a flare nut so I am thinking the regular "good-n-tight" / "quarter turn before it rounds off" torque spec