Rod knock

[Jesse6325]

Ok,, This weekend I changed my oil and installed Jaktona's spin on oil filter kit.
Used Rotella 15/40 with one gallon Lucas.
Drove the truck a good 400 miles under various load conditions, At least 150 miles at 50 MPH/2200/2300 RPM and now it sounds like I have a knock in #6 cylinder.
My oil pressure is still normal for the truck (15 or so at idle warm, 45 or so at speed.)
I haven't pulled the pan yet to check, Wanted to pick the brains of those who have more experience with these things,,,
Anyway, So far just checking the dipstick there are no metal particles I can see.
oil pressure is nomal. Once truck is warmed up it has normal power acceleration although I can feel said knock through my feet.
I DO need to change my fuel filters though, I dumped my used oil in the tank and bought a spare set planning to replace them when they clogged.
Exhaust smoke is als nomal for the truck.(Light greyish under acceleration, Barely visible grey at speed)
So,, My question is Depending on what I find can I replace rod bearings with the engine in the truck? If so is it a good idea to do the mains too?
I do intend to replace the oil pump idler gear, Iv'e seen a few threads where it failed and killed an engine.
Maybe an idea to change the oil pump too while I am in there?
And suggestions/observations will be greatly appretiated.

 

[glcaines]

You need to stop running the engine as you are undoubtedly causing damage, assuming you are correct about the rod knock. Pull the pan and see what you have. You will not normally see metal until you drain the oil. Read the TM.

 

[Jesse6325]

Iv'e alredy dissconneted the batteries, I have no intention of moving it until I find out what's going on. Going to spend a good bit of quality time with the TM's.

 

[hemichallenger]

More than likely when a rod knocks the crank is all ready hurt and the motor will need to come out. But you do need to pull the pan .

 

[Corvette1974]

This is random on my part (I dont own a deuce, but I want one!), but why does it seem that LDT-465s seem to eat rod bearings on a regular occurance? There are various threads on bearing issues on these engines. What's the deal?

Will

 

[plym49]

Why would changing the oil cause a rod to knock? Could there be a problem with the filter kit, not flowing enough oil? I would probably reinstall the old filters, removing the kit, and start it up to see if the noise changes. It won't hurt the motor any more to run it for a few more minutes.

 

[bearboley]

I would guess overspeed on the duece's governor not anyone in particular just the rpm they turn. Used the same motor in a white farm tractor that only turns 1850 they last along time.

 

[73m819]

are you SURE it is a rod knock, what about a fuel knock

 

[Corvette1974]

I would guess overspeed on the duece's governor not anyone in particular just the rpm they turn. Used the same motor in a white farm tractor that only turns 1850 they last along time.

I understand this, but there are millions of other diesels and other kinds of engines that go pretty much forever without any rod bearing problems. And it's not like they are running any real extreme RPM's.

Will

 

[ranchhopper]

are you SURE it is a rod knock, what about a fuel knock

Check for a bad injector first let it run and crack the line at the injector and see if it stops knocking this will tell you if its just a simple fix like replacing an injector instead of tearing it all down.

 

[paramedic7831]

How do you know it’s a rod knock, and number #6 at that? What about bent push rods? They come out easy. Just me talking here: I would check push rods first since they are easy to remove and inspect then I would check fuel problems. I'm thinking u got fuel problems and not sure of your mechanical exp. But diesel fuel problems sound terrible, some might think OMG engine blow any sec.

For the record I am not a professional mechanic or have any professional training from school or military. Many people here will have better answers. Just my 2c. Just backyard gear head wrench turner.

Edit: Also It sounds like you are pointing at Jtonka's spin ons as a problem. I would trouble shoot and find problem before resorting to defamation. I do not have any affiliation with him or even own his kits. Just saying he is part of this community. Let’s not jump the gun

 

[spicergear]

Is there any chance the gallon of Lucas is too thick at start up?

 

[rlwm211]

While these engines are known to have issues if run constantly at over 2200 or so, there are many variables that could be causing the noise.

My suggestion is to try to get another MV person to come and listen to the noise.

I know if I do not add the supplements to my fuel to make up for the ULSD and the lack of lubrication it will knock when you accelerate which I believe is because of inaccurate fuel delivery with either too much, or not enough is injected on each firing stroke.

I would take heed of the advice to crack the number 6 injector and see if the noise lessens or disappears. That is a simple test that will answer this question easily.

Keep bringing information as to how things are developing and the collective mind that is Steel Soldiers will certainly give their best shot at helping you.

 

[swbradley1]

My first thought was fuel as well, Ron is correct. Crack the lines one at a time and see if it goes away.

 

[TexAndy]

Dang, that sucks.

rlwm211:

Wait... known for issues running over 2200 rpm? Links to threads please?

I know the manual says cruise is 1800 to 2100 or thereabouts, but I thought danger zone was 2500 and above?

 

[rlwm211]

What I have found is that 51-52 MPH is in a 'safe' zone. If you want to see discussions regarding this, look for blown motor in the deuce forums.

I did not invent this notion of limiting RPM on long hauls. I decided to keep that as a policy once I had been reading posts for a while and read others offering the advice.

The clincher was the Oliver Farm tractors with 7000-8000 hours without a rebuild. Same basic design and compression ratio. The difference is that the Oliver is governed at 2200 or so.

It seems to me that if the designers of this engine saw that it was best to limit this engine design to this RPM when applied to a constant power output type of use. There is no doubt in my mind that a farm tractor can work very hard for many many hours at a time. This tests the ability of the engine to cool itself and also to control heat build up within the various systems in the engine.

Cruising with a deuce down the road is also very taxing on the engine. We run with our foot darn near on the floor and stay in it and push even harder when we are climbing hills. For whatever reason the engine was allowed to turn 2600 for the military applications. Perhaps using this high an RPM should be considered the equivalent of "War Emergency" power and only when it is life an death do you run that high for as long as it would take to get out of harm's way. I am only guessing to be honest.

I have put almost 8000 miles on my deuce since I bought it. While I have worked it hard, I abide by the cruising limitation that I learned when I first started on the site.

As all know, you can do as you wish. All I can say is if you want a speedster, you do not want a deuce.

Just my two cents worth and maybe a little more.

 

[Jesse6325]

Bit of an update,,,

First right off,,,
I want to make it as clear as possible that I am in NO WAY! claiming or saying Jaktonas adapter have anything to do with any problems i am expieriencing.
If anyhing it's a 40+ year old engine that more than likely has had a hard life before I got it and if it decides its time to die well thats it.
Besides WAY too many people have had no problems whatsoever with Jaktokas adapter kits, And when I installed mine they did exactly what they should, Oil pressure does build quicker and should make for an easier oil change.
Let me say again,, I in NO WAY believe that Jaktonkas filter adapters have caused any harm to my truck whatsoever.
More updates to follow,, With photos,, And maybe movies too!

 

[73m819]

these motors will run ALL day 2600 and below, over 2600 is something ealse

 

[Jesse6325]

And some more

Ok,,, On Jacktonkas advice I pulled my clutch inspection plate and this is some of what I found,,,

View attachment Running 01.wmv

 

[plym49]

Obviously the filter adapters caused a loose bolt or nut to appear in the bellhousing and bounce around as the motor was running.

Did you do anything else to the motor when you changed the oil? I still have a hard time believing that an O&F change caused a knock.