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Driving with a blown cyl head gasket?

mbehne

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Looking to save a duece from the scrapers torch. Guy said it ran but the head gasket was blown. No antifreeze in the oil that I can tell. Wil have to go about 15 miles but can take it easy by going the back roads...would rather not tow it or pay to have it towed. Sorry if this has been asked! Searched and didn't see anything other than repairing. Btw, this will most likely be a parts truck for me but I would fix the engine to have a running spare.
 

m16ty

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Depends on how much it is leaking and where. If you've just got a little antifreeze or oil leaking down the outside of the block, it should be ok to run. Be careful starting it though, if there is coolant on top of a piston and you try to start the engine things can go bad fast.
 

mbehne

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Best he could tell was compression leak at #6 cyl on the rear. I just keep thinking it almost has to have antifreeze in the oil and don't really want to grenade the engine if at all possible. I need to take jumpers out and check it out better.

thanks!
 
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Diecorpse

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Don't drive it. Mine did that. The temp gauge didn't show it was overheating then it was too late. I melted a piston, bent a rod and locked up the motor. That was going easy and slow and allowing frequent stops to keep the engine from working to hard. Now it went from a simple head gasket repair to a total rebuild. I would find somebody that has a large truck like 350/3500 that can pull you. Just make sure your tanks have air for the brakes. The truck might make five or six miles but more likely you will end up with way more of an investment. It's no fun replacing rods, sleeves, and pistons. Just my two cents.

P.S. When my gasket went out, I seen compression out of cylinder two. The coolant didn't go in the oil, it went in the combustion chamber so I had a lot of white smoke.
 
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porkysplace

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Don't drive it. Mine did that. The temp gauge didn't show it was overheating then it was too late. I melted a piston, bent a rod and locked up the motor. That was going easy and slow and allowing frequent stops to keep the engine from working to hard. Now it went from a simple head gasket repair to a total rebuild. I would find somebody that has a large truck like 350/3500 that can pull you. Just make sure your tanks have air for the brakes. The truck might make five or six miles but more likely you will end up with way more of an investment. It's no fun replacing rods, sleeves, and pistons. Just my two cents.

P.S. When my gasket went out, I seen compression out of cylinder two. The coolant didn't go in the oil, it went in the combustion chamber so I had a lot of white smoke.
A 350/3500 is to small to tow a deuce , it may get it rolling but they don't have the braking ability to safely stop it . To pull it out of a lane of traffic to shoulder maybe , but to start with the plan to recover a deuce with one is a plan for failure just to save a couple dollars . You either need to call a towing company or get another deuce or 5 ton and a towbar
 

mbehne

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fm Iowa
How much has the current owner been driving the truck? Are you sure he hasn't already damaged the engine?
You know how it goes, only been driven to church on sunday. Guy says it let go in his driveway upon startup, he shut it down and that's where it sits. I plan on checking it out much more in-depth before spending any franklins on it, but other than checking for hydro lock, oil condition, listening for a lope cranking and just plain old firing it up, if it will, I don't know how to tell for sure without disassembly.
 

swbradley1

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Look at my pics and see the damage and mine still ran. It was awesome to hear.
 

Diecorpse

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If the current owner is asking a cheap price, then you can't go wrong if the rest of the truck seems to be in decent shape. I didn't really think about it, but Porky is right on the truck pulling, it's a risk, but I'm sure you will figure things out and find the safest way to do it, if you buy it.
 

mbehne

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fm Iowa
If the current owner is asking a cheap price, then you can't go wrong if the rest of the truck seems to be in decent shape. I didn't really think about it, but Porky is right on the truck pulling, it's a risk, but I'm sure you will figure things out and find the safest way to do it, if you buy it.
That is the problem, the price is probably ok if the engine is ok but I'm fairly new to this game and unsure. Lol. This truck has a good body w/hard top, winch with a broke left side, motor w/problems, 395's on factory wheels( didn't know that was possible) and lots of usable parts ie alt upgrade and such. I keep telling myself I can sell what I don't want and come out but $2500 is more than I normally gamble... Any thoughts?
 

m16ty

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A 350/3500 is to small to tow a deuce , it may get it rolling but they don't have the braking ability to safely stop it . To pull it out of a lane of traffic to shoulder maybe , but to start with the plan to recover a deuce with one is a plan for failure just to save a couple dollars . You either need to call a towing company or get another deuce or 5 ton and a towbar
:ditto:

I agree with Porky. Do not try and towbar a deuce with a 1-ton truck. Never tow a truck that they towed vehicle is bigger than the towing vehicle.

Now a 1-ton truck can haul a deuce safely on a trailer with good brakes.
 

Diecorpse

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Also check out the thread " what to look for in a Deuce " in this forum. It may give you more info if you haven't already. If you don't mind me asking, how much does the owner want for his truck? Also, the youtube videos, " so you want to own a Deuce " are fairly informative as well if you prefer some visuals.
 

mbehne

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Location
fm Iowa
Also check out the thread " what to look for in a Deuce " in this forum. It may give you more info if you haven't already. If you don't mind me asking, how much does the owner want for his truck? Also, the youtube videos, " so you want to own a Deuce " are fairly informative as well if you prefer some visuals.
Fairly familiar with most of the stuff. I haven't had mine for but 6 months but have been thru a lot of the systems already on mine just no major engine problems. See my last post for price and what it has/problems. It was too hot last night to dink with it but I'm going to try and check it out further one of these nights.
 

Diecorpse

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I would buy it for that price. Parts are reasonable especially from other members. I am currently overhaulin my motor and so far it's been fairly easy compared to more updated vehicles. It takes time but it's worth it. Not sure how much the winch will cost to replace/fix. I seen a lot of winch trucks go for five grand if not more depending on condition. I left my motor in frame, the biggest pain was getting the nuts off under the exhaust manifold, and lefting the heads off, especially when doing by yourself. Much easier if you have the eqipment or another person.
 

o1951

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I am going to take a different position.

If it is not too bad, you may be able to drive it.

When you refill cooling system, put in Bar's stop leak as directed. You will need more than one container - don't skimp. Let it heat up and pressurize the system, and leak should stop. Bar's is the only one I have had success with. I have not had any luck with the ones that look like oatmeal. All they did was clog up everything, including the radiator core tubes, and cause severe overheating.

Over the years, I have used it in many vehicles until I got time to do a proper repair. Head gaskets, heater core, even a leaking water pump! When I was working 6 days a week, I ran it for 2 years, about 60 miles a day until I got time to fix engine. It coats everything inside, so engine runs a bit warmer, and temp sensor will read lower than actual temp because it got coated.

After you replace head gasket, I would run a good cooling system flush thru it - Dupont used to make a good 2 part cleaner with Oxalic acid and neutralizer- don't know if they still do. With a truck that old, good idea to get sludge and scale out of system anyhow. Reduces possibility of hot spots and future issues. I also remove the temp sensor and clean it with steel wool to make sure it reads actual coolant temp.



Disclaimer:
This has been provided by an old geezer, based on his experiences. He could be wrong, so use it at your own risk.
 
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