No start

[hoplite666]

Pulled the M1009 in the shop to load up some things. Went to start it up to pull out. Nothing but a click from the relay. Happened to have a spare starter relay in the glove box. Popped it in. Nothing.
Inspected wiring and found a wire on the power block nearly totally frayed. Patched the wire. Starter spins but doesn't engage flex plate.
Put original relay back in and with no key in ignition starter spun and engaged flex plate and began to run away.
Disconnected relay
Put spare relay back in, sparks flew and starter ran away with no flywheel engagement. (yes, I should have disconnected batteries)

Ive got all the parts for the doghead mod but just haven't gotten around to doing it.
Gonna do doghead tomorrow

Question.... could faulty starter relay cause no flex plate engagement? Before relays totally went out and ran away i could crank and starter with spin w/o flex plate engagement.
At this point I'm assuming my heavy handedness and lack of battery being disconnected caused the relay's to pop and original fault was that loose wire.

Should I plan on pulling flex plate inspection cover tomorrow or will the doghead mod take care of my problems?
Starter is newish
Batteries will be trickle charged tonight.

 

[doghead]

Perhaps your starter engaged (relay failed on)while you were running last and you did not notice it.

You should have done the relay mod the day you read about it.

I'd guess your starter is shot now, as well as whatever wiring and fusible links burned.

 

[doghead]

The mention of the starter not engaging prior to this, is a possible indication that the solenoid could have caused the run on/stuck engaged starter.

Time to inspect everything.

Next time as soon as there is a problem, you should fix it.

 

[hoplite666]

Will do. Initial problem was no start, no engagement, just relay click. Was attempting to fix that when second relay was put in. After doing so and having same problem I found frayed wire. Once patched and original relay re installed other issues arose. It is entirely possible I had had a run on starter at an earlier time and not noticed it.

 

[hoplite666]

So can a faulty relay cause the starter to turn but no solenoid engagement?

 

[doghead]

Do you mean starter solenoid? Yes

Underdash relay? No

 

[hoplite666]

Do you mean starter solenoid? Yes

Underdash relay? No

. Yes. Sorry I was referring to the under dash relay having any relation or control over the solenoid.
Ive bookmarked a few other threads on this same subject and am on my over to the truck to see what I can do. Time is limited and I am a bit anxious. Was really hoping to be bringing the m1009 to NASCAR on Saturday at RIR.
Gonna do the doghead then go from there

 

[Warthog]

The doghead relay upgrade will help some issues but it will not resolve all the problems. With sparks flying you more than likely fried some fusible links.

It also sounds like your starter bit the dust. Unless you can find a 24v starter by friday I would say your trip to NASCAR will be in another vehicle.

 

[hoplite666]

Doghead is done. Same symptoms. Starter is free spinning when cranked. Pulled the starter. About to bench test it.

 

[hoplite666]

Well solenoid is cooked. Plunger must have welded the contacts from low voltage. At least that's what the forums and my rebuilder are telling me. Guy says he will have the parts and be done with it tomorrow by 11.
Now to address the voltage.

 

[hoplite666]

I'm thinking my initial issue was the fraying wire at the power bank on the firewall. It's been patched multiple times by previous owner so I wanna go ahead and replace it. It appears to be 16 gauge and has a link with "20" on it. Wire came apart at the link. Recommendations on gauge and inline/maxifuse to use on it to replace the link?

 

[cpf240]

There is a fusible link thread listed in the Helpful threads sticky in the CUCV forums that discusses this. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?122571-Fusible-Links-101

 

[Warthog]

The "20" stamped on the plastic cover tells you that the main wire is 16 gauge and has a 20 gauge fusible link. NAPA should have some premade links. Do not use a fuse.

There is a sticky covering fusible links in the "CUCV Helpful Threads" sticky at the top of the CUCV Forum.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123199-CUCV-helpful-threads

 

[hoplite666]

Thanks. Smart phone won't load the TM's at the moment. Makes it hard to even figure out what that frayed wire was or if could have been the cause of low voltage at the starter solenoid

 

[Keith_J]

The mention of the starter not engaging prior to this, is a possible indication that the solenoid could have caused the run on/stuck engaged starter.

Time to inspect everything.

Next time as soon as there is a problem, you should fix it.

No truer words. I recently had a starter stick in the on position. No damage but I didn't pull the starter. Turns out it was missing the stop collar and snap ring on the starter drive so it was over-shooting and causing the starter to stick. The last time, the drive broke the nose cone off. This caused some damage to the starter drive and helix on the motor. I fixed those, then welded the nose cone back on, inside and out. Found the replacement parts that were missing and causing all the problems.

Now it starts with authority.

 

[hoplite666]

I've replaced all the make shift patch job wiring I could find
Doghead is all wired up
installed nice new brass terminals for the batteries (which are fully charged).

Should have the starter tomorrow. Let ya know how it goes

 

[the skull]

Good Luck Dude! I'll think of you tomorrow!

 

[hoplite666]

The "20" stamped on the plastic cover tells you that the main wire is 16 gauge and has a 20 gauge fusible link. NAPA should have some premade links. Do not use a fuse.

There is a sticky covering fusible links in the "CUCV Helpful Threads" sticky at the top of the CUCV Forum.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123199-CUCV-helpful-threads

Read and understood. After cutting away all the patch jobs on the frayed wire it appears what's left of the factory wire is actually 12 gauge. The 20 gauge link I cut out reduces down to a much smaller gauge before looping onto the power bank on the firewall. If a fusible link can't be found tomorrow I've got plenty of inline fuse holders. If I were to (temporarily) go that route any thoughts on what amp fuse to pop in there?
Edit:
Did some homework. Seems, although there are many variables, that the amp rating on 12 gauge copper wire is 20amps.

 

[hoplite666]

Well crap. Starter with new solenoid installed. Everything wired up put all together and ready to go. The very second I start attaching battery terminals the starting starts cranking. What gives?
Always the chance the after market "doghead " relay is a dud right out of the box.

 

[Warthog]

Post some pictures of what you have. Sounds like the previous owner did some "creative" wiring.