Troubleshooting: M1009 - Replaced IP, Now running slow

[I_Publius]

They had to take it off, clean it out, reset it, tighten all the hoses, get the air out of the system, rebuild the starter that Mechanic #1 fried, and then it finally got up and running. It definitely starts as it should now, even after running it, letting it sit, and then starting again. It starts right up and sounds great.

Now...my big question is...now the truck seems to be even slower from the start. It takes about 10 long seconds to get up and out of first gear. Is that normal? If not, I'm thinking it could be anything from the IP needing tuning to perhaps a vacuum line to who knows what?! Should the truck take that long to get up and running? I know it's not a race car, but that seems real slow, and dangerous.

 

[rsh4364]

If the motor is spinning up and just not shifting its probably a vacuum issue,if motor is still sluggish its probably fuel related.

 

[I_Publius]

I have a feeling it's a vacuum leak. The motor is spinning fine. It just takes forever to get from first, to second, and then to third. I'm having to "manually" shift it to get all I can out of her. Once in third, she'll do highway speed fine (finally!).

 

[infidel got me]

Mechanic#1 said your spark plugs were put in backwards.Just kidding.
Is it possible a vac.hose got bumped off when your air cleaner was off.
Run it back to your new shop and ask them to test drive it with you,
they seem like nice enough folks.

 

[llong66]

Are you shifting manually because the tranny wont shift, or are you doing it to try and get a little more "power" out of it? Diesels don't have vacuum issues like gassers, the vacuum is supplied from the vacuum pump in the rear of the motor, where the distributor would be on a gasser. As rsh4364 said, if the motor is reving fine, than it is more than likely a vacuum problem, if its not, than you have another issue. I would check your vacuum lines from the pump to the VRV on the pass side of the inj. pump, then there should be a short piece of rubber line to a steel line that rund back to the pass side of the tranny, and that is connected to the tranny with another small rubber hose. Make sure and chack the large hose, "T" fitting and cap at the pump itself. On mine, the large hose directly off the pump was shot. You can adjust the shifting points of the tranny at the VRV. It has 2 small bolts holding it to the inj pump, loosen then and it will move back and fourth. Moving it toward the front of the truck will make it shift earlier/softer.

 

[I_Publius]

It will shift, but I'm trying to get more power out of it, especially when trying to merge in traffic. I will definitely check the hoses. My gut is telling me that's where the issue is.

Being that this was my first 09, I was curious as to whether that's just the way these old trucks ran or not? I keep reading about putting turbo's on these and thought that might be the reason why people say a turbo was needed. After reading all of this, I think I'll check the vaccum first and then try the shift bolts on the IP.

Thanks to all for your feedback.

 

[TexAndy]

Definitely check the line down at the vacuum regulator on the side of the transmission oil pan.

I'm told that drastically affects shifting.

Mine was disconnected from the rubber hose connection being completely rotted.

 

[cpf240]

When checking the vac lines at the vac regulator valve on the side of the injection pump, remember 'Top = Transmission'. Hooking them up the other way can cause problems. Also, there is a little rubber adapter between the vac lines and the vac regulator valve on the side of the IP that tends to rot and leak. The part is NLA, so just remove it and connect the lines directly to the valve. Don't forget to check the rubber vac line at the transmission itself. Also, some have found that the metal vac line can get a hole worn into it if it rubs on the engine or trans.

May want to get a vac gauge and verify the vac pump is working, and then verify the vac regulator valve.

 

[max bowtie]

Just got off the phone with mechanic #2.

Mechanic #1 fried my starter and melted the cable from trying to crank too long on it. That'll be another $200. Oh, and there's a puddle of diesel from something Mechanic #1 didn't do correctly. The list keeps growing and growing and my cost keeps going up......

Just as a reminder, unless you know the mechanic, don't bring your truck anywhere for something you can do yourself. Even it it's going to take longer for you to do the job on your own, you're likely better off as you know you'll do it correctly.

I feel your pain! 90% of the work I've done to my M1009 has been repairing what a previous mechanic that didn't understand these trucks, messed up. I've been knocking things out as I see them but she left me sitting yesterday. Cheap starter and solenoid this time... I'll be replacing that soon. Luckily for me, I have my own repair shop. Glad to hear you found a good mechanic now!

 

[I_Publius]

I thought I found a great mechanic, but was working on her earlier today and found several bolts that go into the manifold that were very loose. I had to tighten them back again....oh well...she runs, just not fast from the get go.

Oh...I did manage to get her stuck today for the first time. Mud all the way up to the bottom of the doors.
Fortunately, I had some guys on the land that were doing some work for me and they pulled me out.

 

[rsh4364]

It will shift, but I'm trying to get more power out of it, especially when trying to merge in traffic. I will definitely check the hoses. My gut is telling me that's where the issue is.

Being that this was my first 09, I was curious as to whether that's just the way these old trucks ran or not? I keep reading about putting turbo's on these and thought that might be the reason why people say a turbo was needed. After reading all of this, I think I'll check the vaccum first and then try the shift bolts on the IP.

Thanks to all for your feedback.

Tomorrow will do a 0-60 time,would be interested in other 0-60 times as well.

 

[I_Publius]

I'll do one tomorrow, as well.

 

[rsh4364]

Tomorrow will do a 0-60 time,would be interested in other 0-60 times as well.

12-14 seconds,but I have about 150lbs. of extra weight,shes my rolling garage,as I have no garage.

 

[cucvrus]

Hey Rick. Sounds like a stock good running M1009 to me. These are not drag trucks. They are built for the long run. They just keep on going and going. You get the point.

 

[rsh4364]

Hey Rick. Sounds like a stock good running M1009 to me. These are not drag trucks. They are built for the long run. They just keep on going and going. You get the point.

Thanks Rich,Im more than happy with my 1009,actually felt guilty flooring it for 0-60 test.Just wish I had more CUCVs

 

[cucvrus]

Oh don't feel guilty they like the abuse and use. I was out wheeling in PA in 2012 once and my son has an M1028 that is used off road only. (against my wishes) Anyway he had a buddy with an Ford F250 that was cranked and dialed and had stacks and all. And the F250 would pull a tri axle construction trailer and haul my sons truck to the mud holes & off road areas. I went with them with a stock m1009. I pulled them out of the mud all day long. I was smarter then them and went around the mud holes. On the way home we were going up a 2 1/2- 3 mile hill on PA Rte 901 going toward I 81. I left 20 minutes before them and they passed me out right before the hill. About a 1/4 way up the hill I saw the F250 sitting along the road with the hood up. It was overheating because they were dialing the fuel to it to make it smoke. I pulled over and theirs is an F250 crew cab and a tri axle trailer with the lifted M1028 on the trailer. I told them to hook up my strap and I would pull them up over the hill. They laughed and said no way. They hooked it up and I put my M1009 in 4 LO with the lockouts in lock and I pulled out. I started to spin a bit but it took hold and away we went. I quickly shifted to neutral and slammed it in 2 WD and kept pulling. Black smoke bellowing from the pipes. I got it up to 40 mph at the top of the hill and pulled him onto I 81 south. My temp was at about 210 but the temp light never came on. I kept that hooked up even though I have a temperature gauge. All were amazed. I was not I knew it could do it. Well he never lived that down. These things plow snow like tanks.

 

[I_Publius]

I just did my 0-60.

35 seconds. I tested it twice. First time: 32 seconds; Second time: 35 seconds.

Used the speedometer app to check speed and stopwatch for time.

 

[rsh4364]

Yeah,thats not right,I would think fuel system.Mine has fact.308 gears and 33 inch diam tires.

 

[rsh4364]

Other guys with 1009s can chime in,just interested,list your tire size,gear ratio and any mods.

 

[cucvrus]

I can drive 3 different ones on any one day. They all run different. I don't know why but they do. The fastest is the mule then mean green and finally the crown. They all run smoth but they all seem to have different power bands. The slow one crown has been run the most and still has the original injection pump on it at 120K. So that may explain that. But it gets driven the most and farthest from home and I hardly notice the power loss. The mule is quickest off the line and that has a bad head gasket. And mean green 65K runs fine to just not as quick as the mule at 97K but much smoother. They all have pretty near stock exhaust, tires, and OEM setup. I can not explain. And it don't bother me. They are all good to go.