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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

Trailboss

Trailboss

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Spent all morning setting up my annual Memorial Day display in the front yard (I do the same for Veterans Day).

Have a wonderful weekend, and remember those who died over the last 239 years to help make the United States what it is.

Memorial Day 2015-11.jpg Memorial Day 2015-8.jpg Memorial Day 2015-7.jpg Memorial Day 2015-9.jpg
 

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archmark

archmark

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On my M934 I installed locking door handles, a locking gas cap and Those Military Guys air filter mod, along with developing a power steering hose leak. Current score: me 3, them 1...
 
G

Goobs

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What is the best way to get the rusted screws out to change out the door handles?.. I was thinking if just drilling them out then using an easy out for stripped screws....any suggestions

Thanks.

Goobs
 
Artisan

Artisan

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#1 Each scenario calls for a different approach.

perhaps;

Hit them w/ PB Blaster for DAYS prior to attempt to remove.

Use a PROPERLY SIZED screwdriver tip.

Seat driver tip and smack it w/ a hammer WHILE you are turning counterclockwise
AFTER YOU HAVE CLEANED TEH SLOTS OF PAINT AND RUST ETC,
keeping screwdriver perfectly aligned in slots all the while pushing REALLY HARD
to keep screwdriver in slot. It is hard to do, eye-hand coordination is a must.
Tap while trying to unscrew while pushing HARD

If it moves a smidge hit it w/ PB Blaster and wait more then repeat the above.

Or drill jus the heads off JUST ENOUGH to get the hinges off then
try to grab the shaft of the screw w/ vise grips, but AFTER you
hit it w/ PB Blaster and WAIT.

If they are a lost cause, cut the FLAT and flush.
Get a sharp center punch and dead center tap a point.
Drill thru and attempt to tap.

See note #1

On larger screws sometimes you can weld a bolt to the head and you have a better
head to grab onto and unscrew.

Or cut a slot for a flathead screwdriver.

If it is mission critical there are companies that specialize in broken bolt
removal. They have a zapper gun deal that will blow a hole thru the offending
screw and then they have a lot of different tricks to get the guts out.

You have to use a proper approach for THAT particular scenario.

CLICK HERE and I have used THIS MAN in the past always w/ success.
 
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archmark

archmark

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What I had to do on both my '66 Deuce and the M934 was 1st to scratch away numerous layers of paint, spray the screws and around the handle housing several times with TriFlow, make sure that I had the right size Phillips head screwdriver and then forcefully tap the screws with the screwdriver and a hammer several times and then using lots of pressure, the screws finally broke free, begrudgingly. It was a PITA, but with the right size screwdriver so that you don't bollox up the heads, they'll finally break free. Since I discovered TriFlow, I now use WD40 for hand cleaner. You can find it at Ace Hardware BTW...
 
Another Ahab

Another Ahab

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archmark said:
It was a PITA, but with the right size screwdriver so that you don't bollox up the heads, they'll finally break free. Since I discovered TriFlow, I now use WD40 for hand cleaner. You can find it at Ace Hardware BTW...
Click to expand...

Are you saying you prefer TriFlow to WD40?

I've always defaulted to BreakFree just because I'm used to it (and because I'm too lazy to keep a variety of products around). I prefer one product that might not be "best", but that seems "good enough" for all purposes. Any comment about that?
 
archmark

archmark

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I agree with you, find something that works and stick with it, which for me is TriFlow, although I use BreakFree on my firearms. PB Blaster also seems to be popular and I'm going to give that a try next time I run out of TriFlow, as it's gotten really pricey. All I know is that 20 some odd years ago I purchased a '56 T-Bird that still had the ORIGINAL SPARK PLUGS in the heads from the day it was built and I soaked them down with probably 2 cans of WD40 over several days but couldn't get them to break loose. I can't remember who recommended the TriFlow, but I soaked the old plugs down with it overnight and all eight of them "popped" loose the next day. They may well have been going to break loose when they did anyway, but I've used TriFlow ever since.

Same thing with "The Must For Rust", which I guess is basically liquid naval jelly in a spray bottle. I spot treat rust spots with it and it does a number on the rust and drys leaving what's best described as a primer coat ready for painting. Just don't be downwind when you spray it, as it'll do a number on your eyes and sinuses too...
 
TechnoWeenie

TechnoWeenie

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Go to a specialty tool shop, or a bolt/screw supply shop.

Skip PBlaster, and go with AeroKroil..

AeroKroil was designed to be used with aircraft, and aircraft tolerances, it's designed to seep into the smallest of small nook/cranny/ etc and break free bolts... Also keep in mind that a TON of stuff is soft aluminum, and will strip if you use too much force, so the penetrating fluid has to do all the work..

Kroil makes PBlaster look like melted butter, in comparison.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCHsz_oG7O8

Aerokroil is aerosol can version, Kroil is the actual oil
 
therooster2001

therooster2001

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Kroil cleans tools, penetrates, and does a job like no other. It also makes your camera stand unstable and makes your feet irresistible to dogs. There are always trade offs....
 
Another Ahab

Another Ahab

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TechnoWeenie said:
Go to a specialty tool shop, or a bolt/screw supply shop.

Skip PBlaster, and go with AeroKroil..

Kroil makes PBlaster look like melted butter, in comparison.

Aerokroil is aerosol can version, Kroil is the actual oil
Click to expand...
That stuff looks pretty effective,

I lasted 5-6 minutes into the video.

It made me cringe to see the guy working in his shop in flip-flops. He seemed to know what he was doing and all, but, you know, that "ain't" too smart.
 
archmark

archmark

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Location
Woodway, TX
After temporarily repairing the power steering hose leak until the new hose arrives at my local NAPA, I got out the grease gun and took care of the "easy fittings. If I can ever remember to take the creeper, I'll finish up that job. My '86 M934 had its MWO done in 2006 and has acquired all of 900 miles in almost 20 years. I installed the TMG air filter modification last weekend and attached is the filter that I replaced. Next weekend, if the rain ever stops I plan on in installing the spin-on oil filter adapter and change the engine oil. I've attached a couple of pictures of the filter setup located under the fan motor on the passenger side. My question is, what is it? I can't find its purpose listed in any of the TM's. It's got a Fram 3519A filter on it and I found an equivalent Wix filter for it, but I've got no idea what its for. Any help?

Also, anybody know of a spin-on fuel filter adaptor and the same for a coolant filter setup?

Thanks...

Mark

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Carlo

Carlo

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archmark said:
After temporarily repairing the power steering hose leak until the new hose arrives at my local NAPA, I got out the grease gun and took care of the "easy fittings. If I can ever remember to take the creeper, I'll finish up that job. My '86 M934 had its MWO done in 2006 and has acquired all of 900 miles in almost 20 years. I installed the TMG air filter modification last weekend and attached is the filter that I replaced. Next weekend, if the rain ever stops I plan on in installing the spin-on oil filter adapter and change the engine oil. I've attached a couple of pictures of the filter setup located under the fan motor on the passenger side. My question is, what is it? I can't find its purpose listed in any of the TM's. It's got a Fram 3519A filter on it and I found an equivalent Wix filter for it, but I've got no idea what its for. Any help?

Also, anybody know of a spin-on fuel filter adaptor and the same for a coolant filter setup?

Thanks...

Mark

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Click to expand...
Trans filter
 
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