Working On The M561 Gama Goat

[Keith_J]

Ah, so I was right. It is an MWO that removed the main buss connections from the Cannon plug. We are leaving the pins in place on the new engine as this Goat will never swim again. The socket on the Goat side of the connection was filled with white RTV, I pulled those out with a screw to give the new engine side pins space to live, unconnected. The existing wires to the starter and ground will be used on the vehicle side.

Now for muscle. I wish we had someone with an operational
recovery vehicle in the five ton range nearby. Or someone with a rough terrain forklift as they have a long boom reach. Getting a hard tired forklift might be interesting. At least on and off a trailer.

I still have lots of welding rods. We could build an a frame gantry.

 

[mkcoen]

Getting a hard tired forklift might be interesting. At least on and off a trailer.

I still have lots of welding rods. We could build an a frame gantry.

I priced the forklift out with a trailer so just need to make sure the hands are available before bringing it to the AO.

 

[mkcoen]

Old one is out.

 

[Another Ahab]

Old one is out.

It looks like it was a "surgically clean" removal.

But looks can be deceiving. Was it!?

 

[mkcoen]

It looks like it was a "surgically clean" removal.

But looks can be deceiving. Was it!?

Followed the -20 for engine pack removal and went fine. Lots of blast media and oil residue in the hull. Pressure washing that this afternoon and try sticking the new engine in.

 

[Another Ahab]

Followed the -20 for engine pack removal and went fine. Lots of blast media and oil residue in the hull. Pressure washing that this afternoon and try sticking the new engine in.

Good Luck!

 

[mkcoen]

New motor in and bolted down but done for the day. We'll get everything else in tomorrow.

 

[combat32]

Looks good Mark, I may be interested in your takeout motor if mine turns out to be a POS, if no one else has spoken for it.

 

[Gamagoat1]

What is the number of that MWO. Can you attach it here?

 

[Keith_J]

The install was easier than expected. Only snag is the new mounts at transmission end need different shim counts as the double Cardan joint has a bit of bind.

 

[Keith_J]

It looks like it was a "surgically clean" removal.

But looks can be deceiving. Was it!?

The right rear mount bolt was stuck but the nut came off so that bolt gave a bit of drag on the lift out. It cleared fine.
No redesign of metal or paint, if that was your question. No shedding of blood or hurt feelings either. Lots of sweat and even more oil soaked dirt. As in 3 gallons of bilge slop.

 

[Gamagoat1]

Saturn Surplus has brand new, in the box, radiators for $250.00 plus shipping. See it on your favorite auction site or call Saturn and ask.

And as for the oil and crud in the bilge under the engine, put a rubber hose on the airbox drain tube and catch the slobber in a gallon can. A gallon paint thinner can works great with the screw on lid it's easy to empty. Solder a fitting in the top for inlet, and one for out. I'll send you picture of mine if you want..It's been in there for about twenty years and have had to empty it just a couple of times.

Remember to drain the air resevoir for the breaks. If it gets full all that nasty crap will be in your brake drums.



I received the new radiator today Oct 15, and it's perfect in it's original package. Cant get one fixed for $250.00

 

[combat32]

That's good info, thanks. That's cheaper than gettin one fixed.

 

[mkcoen]

Looks good Mark, I may be interested in your takeout motor if mine turns out to be a POS, if no one else has spoken for it.

I don't know. I was kind of thinking a M38 project with it Talk about a screaming little jeep...

"Saturn Surplus has brand new, in the box, radiators for $250.00 plus shipping. See it on your favorite auction site or call Saturn and ask."

That's good info, thanks. That's cheaper than gettin one fixed.

Yeh I wish I had known about that before I spent $500 getting mine recored.

 

[mkcoen]

Well today was an off day. Too much for too long into last night. There's going to need to be some minor tweaks to the mounting and then putting all the misc crap back on it. I did find a smaller length oil filter as the 1st one I got was close to not fitting above the frame rail. Also picked up a deal of green Loctite to use on the threads before insertion of the adapter. And lastly I spent part of the day rattle canning some of the aforementioned misc parts. Anyone know what color the military used on the rebuild motors? Looks almost like faded 383 but not sure. I'm sticking with the USMC Forest Green for things like the radiator support brackets but want to use the correct color on the valve cover.

 

[combat32]

Mine is this color, don't know what you call it, Detroit green perhaps. Most of the Detroits I saw in the Army were this color, but then again I did see a few rebuilds that were OD green. Mine is a rebuild, Stewart and Stevenson, I think the were a contractor for TEAD , most goat stuff I see rebuilt seems to have been done at TEAD.

 

[m38inmaine]

Alpine green for the original Detroit color, it looks to me like the substitute carc green 383 matches the rebuild color.

 

[mkcoen]

Mine is this color, don't know what you call it, Detroit green perhaps. Most of the Detroits I saw in the Army were this color, but then again I did see a few rebuilds that were OD green. Mine is a rebuild, Stewart and Stevenson, I think the were a contractor for TEAD , most goat stuff I see rebuilt seems to have been done at TEAD.

Alpine green for the original Detroit color, it looks to me like the substitute carc green 383 matches the rebuild color.

I didn't plan on going back to the Detroit color unless I did a complete rebuild. The block on the original motor was still DD blue with just some of the top painted OD. The new motor is OD all over so I'm guessing it was a rebuild at one point. I think I have some RAPCO 383 so might try that and see how it looks.

 

[Gamagoat1]

All Detroit engines from this era were Alpine Green when received. If they were rebuilt they were repainted to OD. This paint is available at NAPA and is outstanding paint Drys to a glosy finish that wipes off easily.

Here is a picture of mine in my "Little" test stand.

 

[mkcoen]

View attachment 588094All Detroit engines from this era were Alpine Green when received. If they were rebuilt they were repainted to OD. This paint is available at NAPA and is outstanding paint Drys to a glosy finish that wipes off easily.

Here is a picture of mine in my "Little" test stand.

That's a nice test stand. Nice clean shop too

Since I'm not doing a full blown restoration and didn't rebuild the engine I'm just going to keep with the OD. If I decide to drop the old engine in a M38 project (after rebuilding it) I'll paint it back the DD color.