Turn signal trouble.

[rustystud]

I have had an "on again-off again" problem with my turn signals for some time now.
The light will not go off and sometimes it will not work. Just last month I had the whole front clip off trying to find the problem. I even installed extra grounds all over the place with 10 gauge wires going straight to the battery.
So today I decided I would find this problem and fix it no matter what. I was even prepared to run whole new wires to the turn signals if I had too. So I had the right front socket out and just removed the "weatherpack" ground wire out of the socket and noticed it was totally corroded ! The inside of the socket is fine and has Dialectic grease in it to prevent corrosion, I just never pulled out the sealed ground wire !
Now I'm ordering a whole new set of turn signal sockets from LMC truck parts and will be soldering them into the wire loom.
So if anyone else has had this problem with there turn signals maybe you should also check your socket grounds. The wire pulls straight out of the socket.

 

[Tinstar]

Good info!

Glad you found it.
Things like that can drive anyone crazy.

 

[Gripy]

Yep, I had the same problem. I just went to O'reilly's and picked up a socket that fits for a few bucks.

 

[TGP (IL)]

Anytime the indicator light comes on for no reason on these square box GM trucks
It's always a ground problem and usually at the front park/turn light of the side
In question.
Also most of the time, the park light of the offended side normally don't illuminate in park
Or headlamp modes.
Tom

 

[rustystud]

Some more pictures showing that "little rotten" ground wire ! I think anyone who has one of these trucks should pull their socket ground wires out and check them. Then use some dielectric grease in there to prevent any corrosion issues.

 

[rustystud]

Anytime the indicator light comes on for no reason on these square box GM trucks
It's always a ground problem and usually at the front park/turn light of the side
In question.
Also most of the time, the park light of the offended side normally don't illuminate in park
Or headlamp modes.
Tom

I knew it was a ground problem all along. Finding it was the problem ! I never thought to check the socket ground since it was so clean inside where the bulb sits.
You also cannot go by park light not working since mine always worked great. Ground faults will usually only affect the weakest or lowest voltage wire, since there is not enough voltage to overcome the resistance of the bulb.

 

[Tinstar]

I've been using the NO-OX-ID (A Special) electrical grease ever since I found out about it a few weeks ago.

It's like dielectric grease but also has stuff in it that actually fights and penetrates corrosion.

Military uses it and I bought several surplus 8oz tubes.

Any connection I touch now gets a coating.

Will do the sockets now thanks to this thread.

 

[rustystud]

I've been using the NO-OX-ID (A Special) electrical grease ever since I found out about it a few weeks ago.

It's like dielectric grease but also has stuff in it that actually fights and penetrates corrosion.

Military uses it and I bought several surplus 8oz tubes.

Any connection I touch now gets a coating.

Will do the sockets now thanks to this thread.

This stuff sounds good ! Where can you buy it ?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Please get over the idea that soldering is better than crimp connectors. There are many good reasons why crimp connections are mil-spec, required in space, aviation and marine applications, and soldering is not permitted.

The only problem with crimp connections is that people don't use quality components and tools (no, vice grips and pliers are not proper tools), and don't know how to do it. It's easier to learn to crimp properly than to learn to solder properly.

 

[Skinny]

My truck did the same thing due to bad bulb connections which required lots of cleaning at first. I also had a hazard switch that didn't play nice causing havoc. I never replaced it but required lots of exercise for the circuit to make contact and function.

 

[tim292stro]

That was one of the first things I had to do to my 1009 - all new sockets around the truck. Ground wires pull out, and the little ground tab that touches the side of the barrel of the bulb also has a habit of breaking off.

I also used No-Ox on the bulbs when I put them in - I went with the jars for components and the tube for sockets and fittings. That way I can easily dip the bulb bases or fuses in the jars, and "squirt" some in the socket holes.

 

[Tinstar]

That was one of the first things I had to do to my 1009 - all new sockets around the truck. Ground wires pull out, and the little ground tab that touches the side of the barrel of the bulb also has a habit of breaking off.

I also used No-Ox on the bulbs when I put them in - I went with the jars for components and the tube for sockets and fittings. That way I can easily dip the bulb bases or fuses in the jars, and "squirt" some in the socket holes.

Thats funny!
I do the same thing.

Best prices I've found for it was on eBay.

 

[Tinstar]

This stuff sounds good ! Where can you buy it ?

Ebay has the best prices (usually).

I bought one can and 6 tubes, all surplus.

I like it way better than plain dielectric grease.

 

[Tracer]

Please get over the idea that soldering is better than crimp connectors. There are many good reasons why crimp connections are mil-spec, required in space, aviation and marine applications, and soldering is not permitted.

The only problem with crimp connections is that people don't use quality components and tools (no, vice grips and pliers are not proper tools), and don't know how to do it. It's easier to learn to crimp properly than to learn to solder properly.

I agree, the main problem with crimp connections is the quality of the components and crimp tools. I don't know how many times I've seen a failed crimp, and it looks as if it was crimped with a pair of pliers instead of the correct crimp tool!

 

[rustystud]

Please get over the idea that soldering is better than crimp connectors. There are many good reasons why crimp connections are mil-spec, required in space, aviation and marine applications, and soldering is not permitted.

The only problem with crimp connections is that people don't use quality components and tools (no, vice grips and pliers are not proper tools), and don't know how to do it. It's easier to learn to crimp properly than to learn to solder properly.

I actually do both depending on what I'm connecting. A good solder joint I believe is better then just a crimp though. I understand the reasoning behind the military only using crimping. It has more to do with the wire hardening at the joint then any connectivity issues. If soldering was so bad then all computer boards would have no soldering on them either, but you never see that ! I just bought some PAR 36 bulbs and the connections are all soldered. Why would the manufacturer go to all that trouble if it wasn't better ? It all depends on the application. I took 2 years of Electronic Engineering and they really stressed good soldering practices since all repairs would hinge on that ability.

 

[richingalveston]

once you solder a crimp joint, the crimp is useless. Electrons run on the outside of he metal, in a crimp joint the electrons can run all the way into the crimp connector because there is still air gaps between the strands of wires. solder fills all of those gaps. the electrons now have to run on the outside of the solder. In low amperage and voltage connections this is not a problem. The higher the voltage and amperage the bigger the issue. Solder actually reduces the amount of surface area for the electrons to move and thus the get crowded, bunched up and turn electricity into heat.
I solder all of my low voltage stuff and shrink rap it with a little electric grease in the inside of shrink wrap. I do this because the plastic pieces on the crimps are to large and get in the way when trying to work in tight spaces and look like crap. I remove the plastic piece, crimp on the connector lightly and then solder. It makes the terminal addition to the wire very small.

The one problem with solder is vibration also. The wire will eventually stress and break where it meets the solder. crimps do not do this. If you have a wire that has a lot of movement, stick with the crimp.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

A good solder joint I believe is better then just a crimp though.

Well, NASA doesn't agree. The aviation industry doesn't agree. The military doesn't agree. The marine industry doesn't agree, and the automotive industry doesn't agree.

But what do they know? Thousands of controlled tests and decades of experience couldn't have taught them anything.

Oh, and there just might be a bit of a difference between a manufactured object like a like bulb or a circuit board, and a wire.

 

[rustystud]

Well, NASA doesn't agree. The aviation industry doesn't agree. The military doesn't agree. The marine industry doesn't agree, and the automotive industry doesn't agree.

But what do they know? Thousands of controlled tests and decades of experience couldn't have taught them anything.

Oh, and there just might be a bit of a difference between a manufactured object like a like bulb or a circuit board, and a wire.

If your going to come here and make such broad statements then you better be able to back them up. Here is something right from this site. Valances "Ibis Tek light bar" . In post number #15 he mentions the switches are soldered. This is a military item. According to you they NEVER use solder, yet here they are using solder ! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?125231-Ibis-Tek-Light-Bar-Install/page2
I have worked in the Automotive industry almost my whole adult life and I can truthfully say they do use solder in special applications. The real reason they don't use it more is "cost" . I have also never seen a connection fail due to solder and vibration. I have seen connections fail due to corrosion where if they had soldered the connection there would have been "NO" failure.
So the ball is in your court Marcus. Prove me wrong. If you do I will retract my erroneous statements.

 

[rustystud]

View attachment Scan0125.pdfView attachment Scan0126.pdf

Just to help you out Marcus I found these documents for you. The first one is from the "American Boat & Yacht Council Standards" . They state that you cannot "just" use solder as a connection but must also use a "mechanical" connector. They "DO NOT" say you cannot use solder.
The second paper is from our good friends at NASA which is from their standards on "Soldering" ! They devote a whole book on "HOW" to solder electrical connections . Now why would they do that if according to "you" they NEVER allow soldering ?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Please learn to read. I never said they NEVER allow soldering. It's perfectly appropriate for some connections, such as on circuit boards. That's a completely different world from wire repair.

I didn't think it necessary to spell out something that obvious, but I guess I was wrong about that.