srodocker
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Man forgot about this build! Love seeing you work on this thing. Keep up the good work!
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Artisan's M916
- Thread starter Artisan
- Start date
Glad you stopped in to look! It's starting to get good!
Getting the engine dressed up but good and dialing it in!
This is the new BC3 staged... Lots to do, no hurries, doing
EVERYTHING as right as I possibly can... Heck I even ordered
a 5/8" Copper Bead Maker tool today for heater hoses.!
A "Earls 010ERL EZ-Beader Tubing" No messin' around here...
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srodocker
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Thats just awesome. Now that the kids are becoming more independent im able to clean my shop up and maybe work on the truck some more. Granted the kids do come hang out with me the few times ive been in the shop this year so far. I clean they make loud noises and dance to the music hahahhah.
The insulation used for the 7155 Trans Heater is incredibly poor.
It is just open fiberglass wall insulation ! It was pretty much destroyed
so I went looking for some water resistant, adhesive backed, foil lined
stuff and I found this;
It worked well, cut into 3 progressively wider strips and cut to length...
It is just open fiberglass wall insulation ! It was pretty much destroyed
so I went looking for some water resistant, adhesive backed, foil lined
stuff and I found this;
It worked well, cut into 3 progressively wider strips and cut to length...
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You would think I were setting up a Baja 1000 Race M916 motor !
When I pulled the old engine I was like WTH? Look at that wire wrapped
around the back of the block that goes to "I think" that is "a" temperature
sender. The cover was ratty, it was dangling in the breeze and just a poor
job, so I fixed it. I R&R'd the protective cover and replaced it ALL and added
2 stand off straps.
Additionally a bonus pic of the 5/8" Earls Beader tool and the bead I turned
onto the heater copper tube (race ready!) Ha!
When I pulled the old engine I was like WTH? Look at that wire wrapped
around the back of the block that goes to "I think" that is "a" temperature
sender. The cover was ratty, it was dangling in the breeze and just a poor
job, so I fixed it. I R&R'd the protective cover and replaced it ALL and added
2 stand off straps.
Additionally a bonus pic of the 5/8" Earls Beader tool and the bead I turned
onto the heater copper tube (race ready!) Ha!
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The Jake Wiring has ALWAYS ticked me off. I think there were NO STRAPS
at all on the old engine and things just flopped around. The new BC3 came
w/ 2 tiny clamps ready for the jake wires and I added 3 more using
slightly longer bolts on the jake covers and spacers and a thermostant housing
bolt. Highly recomended this upgrade is in my book.
Like the polish job on that old copper heater tube? Ha!
That should be good for a couple more HP at least!
at all on the old engine and things just flopped around. The new BC3 came
w/ 2 tiny clamps ready for the jake wires and I added 3 more using
slightly longer bolts on the jake covers and spacers and a thermostant housing
bolt. Highly recomended this upgrade is in my book.
Like the polish job on that old copper heater tube? Ha!
That should be good for a couple more HP at least!
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More race ready OCD madness. 
The wiring harness just seemed willy nilly run on the DS of the engine.
It was touching the block all over the place and just run w/o care it
seemed. I went full blown OCD and got some Ceramic non heat conducting
thin washers between the block and my stand off spacers and another
ceramic washer on the outside to "try" to cut down on heat transfer
and stand offs to keep harness away from block.
I realize heat will travel thru the 3/8" bolts both X24 and X16 .
Not much can be done between the compressor and the block so
I wrapped the harness w/ some heat resistant fabric.
This strapping job took FOREVER and it is "almost" done. The top
edge of the throttle cables bracket is going to get some Trim Lock
Edging to prevent wear there as well... HA!
The wiring harness just seemed willy nilly run on the DS of the engine.
It was touching the block all over the place and just run w/o care it
seemed. I went full blown OCD and got some Ceramic non heat conducting
thin washers between the block and my stand off spacers and another
ceramic washer on the outside to "try" to cut down on heat transfer
and stand offs to keep harness away from block.
I realize heat will travel thru the 3/8" bolts both X24 and X16 .
Not much can be done between the compressor and the block so
I wrapped the harness w/ some heat resistant fabric.
This strapping job took FOREVER and it is "almost" done. The top
edge of the throttle cables bracket is going to get some Trim Lock
Edging to prevent wear there as well... HA!
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The FlyWheel Housing has to be within .008" of true to Center-Line
of the Crank. The existing dowel pins had to be removed to obtain
this. I have learned a new trick? Let's hope so. You can see I have 4
blolts holting it to start. The balance of the bolts will be hit w/ some
Permatex Ultra-Black and set then I will pull the 4 and do them and
recheck for RunOut Specs.
of the Crank. The existing dowel pins had to be removed to obtain
this. I have learned a new trick? Let's hope so. You can see I have 4
blolts holting it to start. The balance of the bolts will be hit w/ some
Permatex Ultra-Black and set then I will pull the 4 and do them and
recheck for RunOut Specs.
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- Wenatchee, WA
Looking good Artisan! I like your attention to detail and the clean routing of the harness.
For the curious, like myself, could you please post a close up picture of that Jake brake warning label on your rear valve cover? I'd like to know what it warns about.
For the curious, like myself, could you please post a close up picture of that Jake brake warning label on your rear valve cover? I'd like to know what it warns about.
I'm not sure what this means? Any input?
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- Wenatchee, WA
Thanks for taking that extra picture - much appreciated!
It sounds like the HT3B is a divided entry turbo and installing it on an engine that formerly had a single entry turbo without modifying the jake brakes is no bueno.
Will Wagner has explained more about it in this post (among others):
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threa...se-with-a-pulse-manifold.185202/#post-2197530
It sounds like the HT3B is a divided entry turbo and installing it on an engine that formerly had a single entry turbo without modifying the jake brakes is no bueno.
Will Wagner has explained more about it in this post (among others):
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threa...se-with-a-pulse-manifold.185202/#post-2197530
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It means there needs to have the correct auto lash screws installed. I'm sure it does, looks like the engine left ReCon with the brakes installed...everything is painted the same.
Progress...
Yesterday I got the engine stuffed into the hole.
I have done all this work less some coaching alone w/ the exception
of 2 hours of a friend, 45 minutes when pulling old and 1.45 hours
of stuff in anew, pulling off alternator AGAIN and getting turbo outlet
down tube hung. All 4 motor mount bolts are TIGHT!
Yesterday I got the engine stuffed into the hole.
I have done all this work less some coaching alone w/ the exception
of 2 hours of a friend, 45 minutes when pulling old and 1.45 hours
of stuff in anew, pulling off alternator AGAIN and getting turbo outlet
down tube hung. All 4 motor mount bolts are TIGHT!
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SO I had swapped over the UpGraded Alternator to the new engine
so I have enough power for my A/C. After stuffin' engine in, I noticed
there was literally just under .5" of clearance to adjust belt tension.
What to do? Well looks like were cutting the bracket apart and rewelding
the tabs up an inch to gain play. Sigh... FF 15 minutes and celabatory
engine in hole beers were flowing and my buddy was looking at the
old engine and EUREKA! The old alternator bracket is DIFFERENT!
Cutting about 22" of welds averted, more beers flowed! The black
bracket is the old one off the BC1 . You can see the difference.
A new giant O-ring was installed on Trans w/ some grease and surfaces
cleaned prior to engine getting stuffed in.
so I have enough power for my A/C. After stuffin' engine in, I noticed
there was literally just under .5" of clearance to adjust belt tension.
What to do? Well looks like were cutting the bracket apart and rewelding
the tabs up an inch to gain play. Sigh... FF 15 minutes and celabatory
engine in hole beers were flowing and my buddy was looking at the
old engine and EUREKA! The old alternator bracket is DIFFERENT!
Cutting about 22" of welds averted, more beers flowed! The black
bracket is the old one off the BC1 . You can see the difference.
A new giant O-ring was installed on Trans w/ some grease and surfaces
cleaned prior to engine getting stuffed in.
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So B4 I slap the MASSIVE radiator assembly back in I am taking the time to
use a Surface Conditioning Pad and clean up the water hose nipples and I
will wash it and flush the daylights out of it. My old fluid was great, no issues
at all but I am considering using Cummins Blue Anti Freeze and I have been
advised to make SURE all traces of old Green is GONE. Additionally I will
get rid of that POS drain down valve and install a good quality ball valve
w/ plug in it. These radiators are MASSIVE! I am like 5'10" . The radiator
is TOUCHING the ground and on maybe a 15degree slant hanging from
the forklift w/ 2 straps for reference in the pic below.
use a Surface Conditioning Pad and clean up the water hose nipples and I
will wash it and flush the daylights out of it. My old fluid was great, no issues
at all but I am considering using Cummins Blue Anti Freeze and I have been
advised to make SURE all traces of old Green is GONE. Additionally I will
get rid of that POS drain down valve and install a good quality ball valve
w/ plug in it. These radiators are MASSIVE! I am like 5'10" . The radiator
is TOUCHING the ground and on maybe a 15degree slant hanging from
the forklift w/ 2 straps for reference in the pic below.
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I am looking at the power steering fluid cooler and IT DAWNED ON ME
that is OE installation is most likely FLAWED. I remember every time I would
check the power steering fluid it would be LOW! I would add some and next
service LOW again and "some" signs of fluid around fill hole! Well DUH! Look
at this if you own a 20 ton. Look at how much HIGHER the power steering
cooler is mounted in relation to the overflow invert level of the power steering
pumps fill neck! The top of the cooler is like 23-24" HIGHER then the overflow
so when you shut down, ALL THAT FLUID WILL GRAVITY DROP BACK INTO
THE POWER STEERING RESIVOIR! Right? Dam straight it will. I am looking
for an alternate location for the Power Steering Cooler or maybe delete it.
that is OE installation is most likely FLAWED. I remember every time I would
check the power steering fluid it would be LOW! I would add some and next
service LOW again and "some" signs of fluid around fill hole! Well DUH! Look
at this if you own a 20 ton. Look at how much HIGHER the power steering
cooler is mounted in relation to the overflow invert level of the power steering
pumps fill neck! The top of the cooler is like 23-24" HIGHER then the overflow
so when you shut down, ALL THAT FLUID WILL GRAVITY DROP BACK INTO
THE POWER STEERING RESIVOIR! Right? Dam straight it will. I am looking
for an alternate location for the Power Steering Cooler or maybe delete it.
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silverstate55
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That’s one of many things on my To-Do list for my 920.
Great job Brad, looking better than new so far!
Great job Brad, looking better than new so far!
Not wanting to over think things and do huge mods, at first I was just going to
eliminate the power steering cooler then I decided to simply mount it real close.
This eliminated about 5-6' of hose and lowered it about 19-20" . Maybe later
I will open the backside of the inner fender well but for now it is planted and
glued and screwed.
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The old heater tube routing was kinda insane. I deleted the copper section
pictured below which eliminates 2 hose clamp joints and I found some
hose sections (2) on ebay w/ built in 90 degree turns and fit it up sweet.
LS Heater Hose 5/8X4X24
pictured below which eliminates 2 hose clamp joints and I found some
hose sections (2) on ebay w/ built in 90 degree turns and fit it up sweet.
LS Heater Hose 5/8X4X24
