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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

the skull

Member
289
12
18
Location
mt victory ohio
Replaced the harmonic balancer with a nice OEM GM unit. While in there found that my power steering bracket is cracked, wasn't bolted up at that little block bracket and was drooping, causing one of the lines to rub a hole in itself on the frame.

Ordered new motor mounts but still a little skittish about attempting that one.

Time to start putting the front end back together soon.
Yeah, that PS bracket cracked on mine, I had it welded.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
I know what I have to do tomorrow... and I'm not happy about it..

View attachment 852899


If you know. ... you know...

Don't say anything...let the n00bs guess.... lolol
I wouldn’t be happy either, but……..the things that can break without it would make you really really unhappy.
 

BIGHOSS

New member
17
20
3
Location
queens,NY
pffffft ,, more like what havent i done
steering box , a sway bar disconnecter corrector ,,an alignment ,, then pulled the steering wheel to straighten it ,, while i was there i replaces the ignitionn key cylinder ,, lost the plastic isolator for the little horn connection doohickie. oh i also did a wiper motor .

and Then noticed a leak under it so i re did the oil pan gasket
which led me to the transmission which ,,,had a cracked bell housing so ,,,,i pulled that and welded the bell housing up ,,,,,,and now the torque converter seal is leaking so i get to pull it all back out for a three dollar hooker i mean seal
 

BIGHOSS

New member
17
20
3
Location
queens,NY
i also did valve cover gaskets which as anyone who has done them knows FML
while i was in there i studded the heads instead of using the old bolts
 

LT67

Well-known member
655
501
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
Took the 💩box M1008 back to the shop to replace/warranty a steering box less than 2mos old.... maybe 1500 miles. The mech swaps out the steering box, test drives the truck and the new power steering pump decided to quit🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️. Does anyone these days make decent replacement parts for these trucks or have they all gone to 💩.....
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
Studs in the main caps and heads is always better than bolts
I can appreciate that studs in the head can have an advantage, they can reach down further into the block and reach new threads that have not been stretched, but he said he he did valve cover gaskets not head gaskets. I'm thinking he meant he replaced the head gaskets
 

BIGHOSS

New member
17
20
3
Location
queens,NY
I can appreciate that studs in the head can have an advantage, they can reach down further into the block and reach new threads that have not been stretched, but he said he he did valve cover gaskets not head gaskets. I'm thinking he meant he replaced the head gaskets
oh i did the head gaskets too and when installing the new head bolts getting that number 12 bolt sequenced to the 90 ft lbs or so was a blast ... you need a socket which isnt short or deep hahaha.

i think you mean studs reach further into the head yes ? as the head sits on the block if i did everything correctly hahaha
and when putting it back together new studs for the valve covers were installed ,,,,, as it was easier to lay a gasket on studs ,,rather than line holes up . dry cork gaskets actually sealed right up
 

BIGHOSS

New member
17
20
3
Location
queens,NY
Also installed a tiny electric fuel pump inline,, under the factory shield for the fuel lines . so now when i change the spin on filter i dont have to fill up the filter at the pump like a dumbass . the pump is marine grade intended for diesel and has the ability to allow flow should the pump quit. i highly reccomend this silly upgrade , as its cheaper than a new high torque starter
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
oh i did the head gaskets too and when installing the new head bolts getting that number 12 bolt sequenced to the 90 ft lbs or so was a blast ... you need a socket which isnt short or deep hahaha.

i think you mean studs reach further into the head yes ? as the head sits on the block if i did everything correctly hahaha
and when putting it back together new studs for the valve covers were installed ,,,,, as it was easier to lay a gasket on studs ,,rather than line holes up . dry cork gaskets actually sealed right up
I hear ya! Good job, yeah that is what I meant, the head studs fit deeper into block. I know there are other reasons why head studs are used over bolts, one is bolts pull down and twist at the same time while tightening where as studs just clamp straight down without any twisting, giving a more even torque force. I think with these type of motors, either is acceptable.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
4,556
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
I know what I have to do tomorrow... and I'm not happy about it..

View attachment 852899
The CUCV is not that familiar to me.

But as a young man I used to do a good bit of rock climbing (the roped kind). Climbing (old school), is familar to me.

Any climbers out there?!

Seneca Rocks out there in West By-God was Like Heaven to us climbers.

We all had a trick pony on our slings, the RURP:

- That thing there looks JUST like an RURP (but I know it is not, it can't be, can it?).
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
4,556
113
Location
Alexandria, VA

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,505
1,676
113
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Try to keep this brief:

Last year bought a great used set of studded snow tires. Heard some rubbing but no big deal

Today it was time to put them on again. The wheels are 16" chrome-ish steel from a later model chevy pickup.

Today while it was lifted I spun the wheel and heard the rubbing. Got a light and it's the inside outer edge of the wheel contacting the tie rod end.

So I swapped the rear wheel to the front and it isn't rubbing (just goes to show that identical wheels in a set still aren't really identical) but it's close.

Since the thickness of the material under the lugnuts is less on the steel wheels than the aluminum wheels I just took off, I'm considering adding some 1/8" spacers believing I should have enough threads on the stock lugs to keep the wheels attached to the truck.

Spacers a good interim solution?

Ideally, I would like to find some 16" wheels that will work, and to that end I picked up a set of cheap toyota aluminum wheels. But even after headache inducing research, I cannot figure out what lugnuts to use.
 

SomeNewGuy

Member
59
95
18
Location
VA
So I have new wheels + tires showing up for the 1009. 17in wheels with 32in AT tires so I can use it more as a daily driver as I currently have the 16.5 in wheels with the 37in Wrangler 2s on there...
Question is this, should I drop the suspention back down? Or leave it at 6in so I can more easily swap on the 37s when we go camoing 2 or 3 times a year...

Not sure how silly its goin to look with a 6in lift an only 31in tires. Any thoughts?
 
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