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Dark Seas M1008 Project

DarkSeas

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Leland, N.C.
You need pictures?
That would really help Keith, thank you. No rush - I won't be back in the shop until next weekend probably.

Edit: Keith, pictures would be greatly helpful but aren't necessary - DIVE DIVE figured out that the valve cover bolts are listed in TM 34P Figure 6 - I was looking in TM 20P. Looks like the valve covers need 9 studs and 7 bolts, I have 6 studs and 10 bolts (3 found and added thinking I was missing bolts).

cucvrus was kind enough to offer me some studs/bolts to make me whole.
 
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ezgn

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Lake Elsinore Ca.
That would really help Keith, thank you. No rush - I won't be back in the shop until next weekend probably.

Edit: Keith, pictures would be greatly helpful but aren't necessary - DIVE DIVE figured out that the valve cover bolts are listed in TM 34P Figure 6 - I was looking in TM 20P. Looks like the valve covers need 9 studs and 7 bolts, I have 6 studs and 10 bolts (3 found and added thinking I was missing bolts).

cucvrus was kind enough to offer me some studs/bolts to make me whole.
TM-2320-289-34p page 28
 

DarkSeas

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Leland, N.C.
@Keith_J @ezgn Thank you guys, I'll be getting on it soon - big thanks to @cucvrus for being kind enough to send me some replacement studs I was missing. I've got a few injectors to get out and vacuum lines to put in while I wait. Then it will be valve covers, new injectors and glowplugs this weekend.

I'm getting a new vacuum regulator valve in hopefully by Friday ($65, ebay vs. $130 elsewhere, I'll post pics when I get it in) along with a new GP harness to replace the frayed one I currently have in the old girl. Really hoping I don't find the GP card fried after doing everything else around it :roll:... I picked up a replacement GP temp sensor and pigtail for $17 at Autozone earlier this week, what a steal.

I got my alternators back from my local shop yesterday: boy did they do an AMAZING job getting them both refurbished, rebuilt, repainted, cleaned up. Super quick turnaround too. They look brand new, I had to take pictures. New hardware and connections on the backside as well. Cost about $250 to completely redo the pair. If any of y'all are interested, check out Alternator Specialist in Wilmington, NC. Super great work, would highly recommend them! [thumbzup]
 

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Keith_J

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Alternators look good, did they load test? The isolated negative one I bought had a test report..not that I believe it..hopefully it has enough output to get me home in the event of a field swap.
 

DarkSeas

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Location
Leland, N.C.
Alternators look good, did they load test? The isolated negative one I bought had a test report..not that I believe it..hopefully it has enough output to get me home in the event of a field swap.
They did it right in front of me when I first dropped them off. The DS was absolutely mint, looked a little rough but put out correctly. The PS alt only put out 40 amps when tested, so he dove into it to figure out why. I didn't ask what they ended up changing out since I got there pretty close to closing time, and it looks like they did a lot of work to them/I wasn't upset about what they were charging me at the end of it. I also probably wouldn't have known what they were talking about haha
 

DarkSeas

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Leland, N.C.
Bit of an update:
Didn't expect to go up to the shop yesterday, didn't hear from my friends about meeting up to get back on it. Wasn't mad, the last of the parts I need are still in the mail coming by Fri/Sat.

Got a phonecall as I left work yesterday, it's an emergency - one of my friend's old ladies car broke down and it's knocking. We gotta move the CUCV out of the garage.

I run up there, we put the valve cover gaskets on and screwed them down by hand just to keep stuff out of the rockers. Jr already had the new injectors in the motor by the time I got there (and boy do they look good). We attached the old return lines to the new injectors just as a temporary cover. Intake holes are already covered up, so we put the hood back on and pulled her out into the yard. Put the parts in the cab and the brackets and bolts in ziplock bags in the bed of the truck. Might even paint some of the brackets in the meantime.

Won't be as fun workin from the yard, but I can still get at putting the vacuum regulator valve in, correcting the makeshift valve cover bolts, and putting new vacuum hoses on. With a blown diesel truck pulled in yesterday for side work this weekend, his girlfriend's car knocking, and his truck's brand new motor pouring oil, my CUCV project will likely slow down a bit until July. Crazy how much life can change in a day.

In July I'll be taking a trip with my girlfriend and hopefully this young buck comes back engaged. I'm also hosting a big family day event at my work the last weekend of June to raise money for a coworker who passed away in March from injuries sustained on the job. Gonna give everything we make to his wife. The next month is going to be a busy month for me, and I have a lot to look forward to, including getting back to the old girl when I can. I'll still probably go up and tinker every week but big amounts of progress likely won't happen till later in July.
 

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DarkSeas

Well-known member
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Location
Leland, N.C.
This might be a really stupid question, but it's been bugging me since it crossed my mind.

I am replacing the glow plug harness between the glow plug card and the glow plug relay/temperature sensor due to frayed wires. The way the truck sits, he has a manual glow plug button wired to push 12V directly to the glow plugs, from bus bar (12V conversion...) to button to GP relay. I don't get a wait light on my dash or anything, basically the only way I could tell the GP were working was a change in sound from holding the button with the key turned (I think it's just the sound of the electric fuel pump slowing down some with amperage going to the GP)

Is replacing the GP wiring harness and temperature sensor even worth it, or is everything bypassed by this button system? How far backwards is this GP setup/how did it work originally?
 

Keith_J

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Aside from aging glow plugs and relay, the system in my 1031 has been faultless and perfectly reliable. Far better than the three iterations used on civy models.
 

Keith_J

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It works, parts are available and wiring diagrams (corrected) are available. Yes, the new card is expensive but all other parts are inexpensive.

While a push button is dead simple, the only real benefit would be a plausible theft deterrent.

I would recommend looking over the existing glow plug card and make a financial decision.
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
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Location
Leland, N.C.
It works, parts are available and wiring diagrams (corrected) are available. Yes, the new card is expensive but all other parts are inexpensive.

While a push button is dead simple, the only real benefit would be a plausible theft deterrent.

I would recommend looking over the existing glow plug card and make a financial decision.
Welp, I just got a new GP temperature sensor because I accidentally broke the old one, and I got a new GP wiring harness from HW that came in today because there were all these bare wires going up into the dash and I was tired of looking at them. Pretty sure there's still a GP card in the truck, if it's burnt out I can replace it, that'd be okay with me.

How does the original system work? Turn the key and the GP come on then shut off when the truck is warmed up? Light up some kind of dash wait light?

Haha things would be so much easier if I could've seen the truck operating before he made all this changes to the wiring.
 

Keith_J

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The stock system engages when key is on, a yellow wait light illuminates. At summer ambient temperature, this takes 5 to 8 seconds. When it is 9°F, this is 40 seconds or more. Voice of experience here, that is the coldest I have experienced and in central Texas too..

After the light goes out, you then engage the starter. Now the system cycles in a process called after glow. Can be as many as 5 cycles after running, about 5 to 8 seconds each.. I see this in my multimeter indicating digital meter as current goes over 100 amperes with belt squealing at times..belt dressing time.

After glow stabilizes idle speed, reduces fuel waste and helps warm the engine.

One more benefit to the stock system is the inferred glow plug indicator. Pre glow time is determined by temperature. When glow plugs go out, pre glow time is reduced to prevent cascade failure. That is how I discovered 3 burned out GP. Pre glow was less than 5 seconds.
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
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63
Location
Leland, N.C.
The stock system engages when key is on, a yellow wait light illuminates. At summer ambient temperature, this takes 5 to 8 seconds. When it is 9°F, this is 40 seconds or more. Voice of experience here, that is the coldest I have experienced and in central Texas too..

After the light goes out, you then engage the starter. Now the system cycles in a process called after glow. Can be as many as 5 cycles after running, about 5 to 8 seconds each.. I see this in my multimeter indicating digital meter as current goes over 100 amperes with belt squealing at times..belt dressing time.

After glow stabilizes idle speed, reduces fuel waste and helps warm the engine.

One more benefit to the stock system is the inferred glow plug indicator. Pre glow time is determined by temperature. When glow plugs go out, pre glow time is reduced to prevent cascade failure. That is how I discovered 3 burned out GP. Pre glow was less than 5 seconds.
Interesting. So turn key to on position, it will fire the glow plugs and light on the dash as pre glow until temperature good enough to start. Start and it will cycle after glow until the motor temps rise and idle smooths out.

And the original system makes it easy to detect when GP are going bad because it will noticibly shorten pre glow time on a cold start.

Seems handy. I just checked out the new GP harness, it looks awesome. Just have to splice the new GP temp sensor connector in place of the old one and she should be good to roll, assuming the card is okay. I really hope the wait light comes on, the only things I noticed working on the dash before were the Gen 1 or 2 light (cant remember which) and the speedometer works, but that's mechanical. I'll probably start tackling each gauge and light one by one once I get the motor up and running again.
 

Keith_J

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Among my many neuroses is counting off the pre glow time and subjective analysis of said time with ambient temperature. Then timing the cold start high idle, just a function check.

When I liberated this M1031 SECM, the PTO generator wiring had significant errors, the first being the emergency engine shut off from the governor. Instead of wiring to the IP shut off, they wired it to the HPCA and fast idle solenoids (green). So this truck ran for 23 years with these solenoids activated all the time. I didn't like the idea of some ancillary circuit failure causing the engine to stop so this emergency engine shut off is disabled. I use the generator weekly.
 

DarkSeas

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Leland, N.C.
Did you find the delivered package?
So I walked down the other side of my building and knocked on their door, this really ghetto looking dude came to the door and I asked him about it and at first he looked at me like I was nuts, but when I explained I was supposed to receive a few bolts for a truck project I'm working on, that's when he realized what I was talking about. He must've opened the package deemed it not valuable enough for his gain and tossed it. He told me they did get a package for the wrong person. Instead of taking it to the office like a good human to see if anyone with my name lived here and they just had the wrong address, he said they just threw it out weeks ago.

Really had to bite my tongue on that one, had a few things I wanted to say to him but didn't. Just disappointed in people.
 
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