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Setting up for shortening the wheelbase on the m1078:
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fun experiment. Curious how it will handle. Keep us posted on that.Setting up for shortening the wheelbase on the m1078:
Yes, will do. I am anxious to fire up the new magnetic drill motor with the core drills. The key will be go slow + steady flow of cutting fluid.fun experiment. Curious how it will handle. Keep us posted on that.
like it.
Turning it into a Pinz, eh?Setting up for shortening the wheelbase on the m1078:
lol...... took the words right outa my mouth to you fingers quicker than I could ..Mag drills are the best, and now with centerless cutters they are the berries. How about putting another steer axle in the rear?
Not exactly. I am, however, taking advantage of the chassis frame rails being the same dimension front to back. In principle, any of the suspended components can go anywhere along its length . The guys making deuce and 5-ton bobbers do it all the time.Turning it into a Pinz, eh?
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I have seen the counter-steer setup on the 5-axle rigs, a straighforward implementation.Mag drills are the best, and now with centerless cutters they are the berries. How about putting another steer axle in the rear?
Actually, Coachgeo, I will be using advice you gave to me back when I removed the bed, and I was lamenting how front heavy the truck is: "Put an engine block over the rear axle, that will help"......Stand by, like I say, I prefer to show results before saying too much. Haters ya know.....lol...... took the words right outa my mouth to you fingers quicker than I could ..
you could really confuse them and put another cab on the back facing rearward with a spare block with empty head under it...some dummy plumbing for the fun of it. You would have a MT-Push Me - Pull YaActually, Coachgeo, I will be using advice you gave to me back when I removed the bed, and I was lamenting how front heavy the truck is: "Put an engine block over the rear axle, that will help"......Stand by, like I say, I prefer to show results before saying too much. Haters ya know.....
.you could really confuse them and put another cab on the back facing rearward with a spare block with empty head under it...some dummy plumbing for the fun of it. You would have a MT-Push Me - Pull Ya
You guys are getting warm....The weight of the cab on top of the engine on top of the axle = front heavy. The cab on the rear distributes the weight, eliminates heat load into the cab from the engine making it practical to air condition, dispenses with the cab tilt mechanisms, diminishes engine noise in the cab. The rear axle with the locking diff goes under the heavy engine, the steer axle to the rear under the newly positioned cab..
Yeah, now that would be fun!!
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.But then wouldn't it be easier to just....
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1985 Oshkosh A/S32P-19A 4x4 Fire Truck
4x4, Cummins Turbo Diesel Engine, Automatic Transmission, Air Conditioning, Heater, 1,000 Gallon Water Tank, 130 Gallon Foam Tank, Water Cannon, Foam Cannon, Hose Reel, 445/80R25 Tires, 34,000 lb. GVWRwww.govplanet.com
The LMTV is paid for, its all labor cutting bolts/drill holes, the only expense I see is running new air/power steering/fuel line which I was doing anyway.But then wouldn't it be easier to just....
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1985 Oshkosh A/S32P-19A 4x4 Fire Truck
4x4, Cummins Turbo Diesel Engine, Automatic Transmission, Air Conditioning, Heater, 1,000 Gallon Water Tank, 130 Gallon Foam Tank, Water Cannon, Foam Cannon, Hose Reel, 445/80R25 Tires, 34,000 lb. GVWRwww.govplanet.com
Yeah I was wondering if you were heading this way. You may be able to just flip the pumpkins over to reverse your direction? But the issue with that would be driveline angles get worse…. Maybe? I’m not close to a truck to look.
Or use a high pinion intermediate axle (I have an extra)No need to flip, just trade places front to back will make it run the "wrong" way which is the new right way.
Driveshaft angles change as the diffs are not centered and are biased toward the driver side. But then, that's what U- joints are for![]()