Swapped out all 7 Michelins for Goodyears. Pulled the radio rack and installed the 3rd seat. Put the pintle hook extension kit in - 98% done; just need to fab a relocation bracket for the rear two axle vent tube T. Got the remaining 2 driveshafts checked, repaired, new u-joints, and balanced. Hope to install them today.
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What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today
- Thread starter Coffey1
- Start date
seanwmurph
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- California
Painted the frame, after a lot of disassembly..
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- 232
- 555
- 93
- Location
- Strafford, NH
I rebuilt my cab latch….. it took all of 45 minutes to include removal, clean up, reseal and install. Not a bad deal for $23 worth of seals.
Third From Texas
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coachgeo
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what paint did you use?
Guruman
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I managed to get the winch drum hung on the frame last night. What a beast.
coachgeo
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Do you manage mostly in IN or MT??
Guruman
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Mostly Indiana for the past couple of years, with visits out west when we can. Hoping to flip that around again iin a couple of years.
- 232
- 555
- 93
- Location
- Strafford, NH
Nice! I managed to get mine hung too, got all the guides on and the hydraulic tank fender. PTO is next for me when I get some time.
Did you use a floor Jack or transmission Jack to get that rascal up to the frame rail?
The winch cable can be routed / rerouted out the front or back, as needed?
coachgeo
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in OEM configuration..... yes
Guruman
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I'm interested to hear how you did yours. I sat the winch assembly on a hydraulic lifting cart and jacked it into position, but it was not quite vertical enough, so I ran a large ratchet strap fro around the winch hydraulic motor, over the frame rails to the drivers side and up to one of the bed tie down points. By adjusting the strap and the lift table I was able to line the bolt holes up.
My daughter was also able to get the front 4 in place without removing the exhaust and shield. Tightening all the bolts was a bit of a challenge. The 4 rear ones were super easy. The front ones were not, because we did not remove the muffler and it's heat shield. But I was able to sneak a wrench in between the fuel tank and slip onto the nuts, while a ratchet jammed between the shield and the bolt head would just barely fit (some bending of the heat shield was done to accomplish this) I did have to remove the forward most lower bolt in order to tighten the one next to it..
- 232
- 555
- 93
- Location
- Strafford, NH
So as far as lifting the winch into position I cheated. I used my pallet forks on my tractor. I just slid the forks together, about 12” or so apart? Then lifted it by cradling the winch drum. That made it real easy to adjust the frame to align the bolt holes. Once one bolt was in it was very easy to align the others.
I did remove the muffler and heat shield, that only took 15 minutes or so? Way worth not having to fight with the other bolts. I did find my exhaust pipe had a crack that needs to be addressed too.
I’m now down to installing the PTO / pump and wiring, which I’m not looking forward too.
I did remove the muffler and heat shield, that only took 15 minutes or so? Way worth not having to fight with the other bolts. I did find my exhaust pipe had a crack that needs to be addressed too.
I’m now down to installing the PTO / pump and wiring, which I’m not looking forward too.
I don’t know if you pieced this all together. Did the pump come with the “kit” or did you buy it separate? You have the wiring?
- 232
- 555
- 93
- Location
- Strafford, NH
Yeah I purchased a mostly complete kit, I’m very happy with what I got. I still need the PTO/solenoid wiring harness. Additionally all the rollers need new needle bearings which I need to track down.
Third From Texas
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Finally got around to replacing the cover panel for the A/C unitl access. I blew off going down the highway somewhere. I just used sheet metal I had onhand.
Fortunately the piano hinge was still on the truck (actually, it had fallen down behind the cab and wedged near the hydraulic pump) and I suspect that the panel tore away and the hinge was saved by a single rivet that finally gave way).
I still need to weld a couple small bolts onto the frame at the base, drill a couple holes in the panel, and secure it with wingnuts. Or given that it's rarely ever accessed, I may just bolt it shut.
M1079 owners who still have the panel (I see more trucks that don't than who do) you might want to come up with a better solution tha the two little OEM pressure/flip latches. A good gust of head-wind can pop them open easily.
Fortunately the piano hinge was still on the truck (actually, it had fallen down behind the cab and wedged near the hydraulic pump) and I suspect that the panel tore away and the hinge was saved by a single rivet that finally gave way).
I still need to weld a couple small bolts onto the frame at the base, drill a couple holes in the panel, and secure it with wingnuts. Or given that it's rarely ever accessed, I may just bolt it shut.
M1079 owners who still have the panel (I see more trucks that don't than who do) you might want to come up with a better solution tha the two little OEM pressure/flip latches. A good gust of head-wind can pop them open easily.
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Get u a rivnut kit on amazon it changes the whole game ! I just walk around with my screwgun /drill and a handfull of rivnuts i use em every whereamazon.com/Speder-Threaded-Nutsert-Furniture-Decration/dp/B07NVSPYNM/ref=sr_1_16?crid=3JQG5AH2GTSXE&keywords=rivnut+tool+kit&qid=1657491510&sprefix=rivnut%2Caps%2C691&sr=8-16
Third From Texas
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Third From Texas
Well-known member
- 2,702
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- 113
- Location
- Corpus Christi Texas
Mine isn't one of "those" trucks....
That's just Saharan dust. It'll get clean next time it rains.