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What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

INFChief

Well-known member
722
1,348
93
Location
New York
Swapped out all 7 Michelins for Goodyears. Pulled the radio rack and installed the 3rd seat. Put the pintle hook extension kit in - 98% done; just need to fab a relocation bracket for the rear two axle vent tube T. Got the remaining 2 driveshafts checked, repaired, new u-joints, and balanced. Hope to install them today.
 

Guruman

Not so new member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Nice! I managed to get mine hung too, got all the guides on and the hydraulic tank fender. PTO is next for me when I get some time.

I'm interested to hear how you did yours. I sat the winch assembly on a hydraulic lifting cart and jacked it into position, but it was not quite vertical enough, so I ran a large ratchet strap fro around the winch hydraulic motor, over the frame rails to the drivers side and up to one of the bed tie down points. By adjusting the strap and the lift table I was able to line the bolt holes up.

My daughter was also able to get the front 4 in place without removing the exhaust and shield. Tightening all the bolts was a bit of a challenge. The 4 rear ones were super easy. The front ones were not, because we did not remove the muffler and it's heat shield. But I was able to sneak a wrench in between the fuel tank and slip onto the nuts, while a ratchet jammed between the shield and the bolt head would just barely fit (some bending of the heat shield was done to accomplish this) I did have to remove the forward most lower bolt in order to tighten the one next to it..
 

Wingnut13

Well-known member
235
563
93
Location
Strafford, NH
So as far as lifting the winch into position I cheated. I used my pallet forks on my tractor. I just slid the forks together, about 12” or so apart? Then lifted it by cradling the winch drum. That made it real easy to adjust the frame to align the bolt holes. Once one bolt was in it was very easy to align the others.

I did remove the muffler and heat shield, that only took 15 minutes or so? Way worth not having to fight with the other bolts. I did find my exhaust pipe had a crack that needs to be addressed too.

I’m now down to installing the PTO / pump and wiring, which I’m not looking forward too.
 

INFChief

Well-known member
722
1,348
93
Location
New York
So as far as lifting the winch into position I cheated. I used my pallet forks on my tractor. I just slid the forks together, about 12” or so apart? Then lifted it by cradling the winch drum. That made it real easy to adjust the frame to align the bolt holes. Once one bolt was in it was very easy to align the others.

I did remove the muffler and heat shield, that only took 15 minutes or so? Way worth not having to fight with the other bolts. I did find my exhaust pipe had a crack that needs to be addressed too.

I’m now down to installing the PTO / pump and wiring, which I’m not looking forward too.
I don’t know if you pieced this all together. Did the pump come with the “kit” or did you buy it separate? You have the wiring?
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,774
6,520
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Finally got around to replacing the cover panel for the A/C unitl access. I blew off going down the highway somewhere. I just used sheet metal I had onhand.

Fortunately the piano hinge was still on the truck (actually, it had fallen down behind the cab and wedged near the hydraulic pump) and I suspect that the panel tore away and the hinge was saved by a single rivet that finally gave way).

I still need to weld a couple small bolts onto the frame at the base, drill a couple holes in the panel, and secure it with wingnuts. Or given that it's rarely ever accessed, I may just bolt it shut.

M1079 owners who still have the panel (I see more trucks that don't than who do) you might want to come up with a better solution tha the two little OEM pressure/flip latches. A good gust of head-wind can pop them open easily.

20220710_132735.jpg
 
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chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,640
19,014
113
Location
TN .
Finally got around to replacing the cover panel for the A/C unitl access. I blew off going down the highway somewhere. I just used sheet metal I had onhand.

Fortunately the piano hinge was still on the truck (actually, it had fallen down behind the cab and wedged near the hydraulic pump) and I suspect that the panel tore away and the hinge was saved by a single rivet that finally gave way).

I still need to weld a couple small bolts onto the frame at the base, drill a couple holes in the panel, and secure it with wingnuts. Or given that it's rarely ever accessed, I may just bolt it shut.

M1079 owners who still have the panel (I see more trucks that don't than who do) you might want to come up with a better solution tha the two little OEM pressure/flip latches. A good gust of head-wind can pop them open easily.

View attachment 872659
Get u a rivnut kit on amazon it changes the whole game ! I just walk around with my screwgun /drill and a handfull of rivnuts i use em every whereamazon.com/Speder-Threaded-Nutsert-Furniture-Decration/dp/B07NVSPYNM/ref=sr_1_16?crid=3JQG5AH2GTSXE&keywords=rivnut+tool+kit&qid=1657491510&sprefix=rivnut%2Caps%2C691&sr=8-16
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,640
19,014
113
Location
TN .
They have bigger badder kits on amazon but this gives you a starting place ! Oh and theres some other new stuff on that site like dawn detergent and wash brushes looks like no one told ya!!!!!
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,774
6,520
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
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