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Well, Chevymike's insulation is in a lot better shape than mine was, and my M1010 only has 20K miles. I've been replacing the stock bagged fiberglass with 1.5" rockwool & sheathing the inside with R2 DiBond (half the box done now). The plastic vapor barrier on the original insulation had rodent holes, and the wall insulation had settled to only about 3/4 full in each bay. I'm using Rockwool to avoid anything flammable inside the wall (like foam). Also the Dibond is a real help with heat conduction thru the studs -- when the sun was hitting the outside wall, the stock inside aluminum sheathing would get too hot to hold your hand on. The Dibond feels room temp.
Replacing the interior aluminum with DiBond made such a difference in heat conduction, the work was worth it just for that (still passenger-side wall to go, but the difference is obvious). That aluminum sheet does not come out without a fight tho, the interior corners are doubled and the upper "crown molding" is tough to remove without kinking. Very early into the project, I decided to leave all the corners and just cut the sheathing 1" inside the corner molding, very lightly with a cutoff wheel, then drill out the interior pop-rivets. Then I siliconed over the remaining 1" lip and screwed the DiBond into it, flush with the crown molding at the edges. The DiBond is also the vapor barrier. As I mentioned I also replaced the slumped bags of fiberglass with rockwool, which slips right in but has no vapor barrier of its own. It was alot of work but totally worth it.
Sorry I didn't take any pics while I was doing it, and now there's not much to see. The driver's side with the DiBond is smooth & white like shower board, while the pass side is still stock. But the DiBond barely gets warm in the sun while the stock side could cook a pancake. For the ceiling, I wanted to significantly increase the R-value without reducing the interior height at all, since I already have to duck my head. So I left the ceiling stock but on the outside put 1" Celotex foam board over the entire roof, aluminum facing up to reflect heat. It's held down by 2x2x8's laid across the truck 16"OC, which are held down at the ends by tie-wires to small C-clamps in the rain gutters. The rain gutters are part of the extrusion that forms the outer corner of the box, they can't come off. There are no fasteners into the roof at all. Then there is a 1/2" treated plywood deck screwed into the 2x2's over the entire roof. So above the stock roof (painted with aluminized trailer roofing) there is R7 foamboard, then 1-1/2" air gap, then plywood deck. Eventually i'd like to replace this with an alumium diamondplate deck with it's own rain gutters, but it's worked well for the last couple years & was super cheap. I could snap some pics of this setup if you like.
You can totally walk on it. I often use the top of the truck as mobile scaffolding, recently to paint my house with a brush & roller. I have (3) 100W flexible solar panels up there screwed into the plywood with battens, but for scaffolding I throw a blanket over them & then another piece of plywood. It's not super heavy, it's only (2) sheets of 1/2". I wouldn't trust any glue at 65mph. Mechanical connection to the front & side rain gutters is the way to go.
Guaranteed she would get a GEP 6.5, side mount turbo, and an NV4500. Not that I haven't thought it out.
