M1010 ambulance box build reference

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That does not look bad at all. I would think that foam panels might have a bit more R value but not sure the cost of money and time would be worth it. I guess I will look into how the wires get into that box and see if I can make them work.
Thanks for the pictures!

 

[kapnklug]

So, do you think pulling the walls out and replacing the old insulation is worthwhile? I only want to do this once and I have a blank canvas right now. Seems it would help to get wires where I need them too....?View attachment 925773

That does not look bad at all. I would think that foam panels might have a bit more R value but not sure the cost of money and time would be worth it. I guess I will look into how the wires get into that box and see if I can make them work.
Thanks for the pictures!

Well, Chevymike's insulation is in a lot better shape than mine was, and my M1010 only has 20K miles. I've been replacing the stock bagged fiberglass with 1.5" rockwool & sheathing the inside with R2 DiBond (half the box done now). The plastic vapor barrier on the original insulation had rodent holes, and the wall insulation had settled to only about 3/4 full in each bay. I'm using Rockwool to avoid anything flammable inside the wall (like foam). Also the Dibond is a real help with heat conduction thru the studs -- when the sun was hitting the outside wall, the stock inside aluminum sheathing would get too hot to hold your hand on. The Dibond feels room temp.

 

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Well that is definitely worrisome. I wonder if there is a way to test the insulation value with a infrared monitor and put a heater on the inside of the box. It probably would not work well unless it is cold out which it is not in NC these days. I may reconsider pulling some liner down and see what I find. My M1010 only has about 19K miles on it now and has been in a metal shed for about 25 years but no telling if there were rodents around. I wonder how they would get inside the walls.

 

[kapnklug]

Well that is definitely worrisome. I wonder if there is a way to test the insulation value with a infrared monitor and put a heater on the inside of the box. It probably would not work well unless it is cold out which it is not in NC these days. I may reconsider pulling some liner down and see what I find. My M1010 only has about 19K miles on it now and has been in a metal shed for about 25 years but no telling if there were rodents around. I wonder how they would get inside the walls.

Replacing the interior aluminum with DiBond made such a difference in heat conduction, the work was worth it just for that (still passenger-side wall to go, but the difference is obvious). That aluminum sheet does not come out without a fight tho, the interior corners are doubled and the upper "crown molding" is tough to remove without kinking. Very early into the project, I decided to leave all the corners and just cut the sheathing 1" inside the corner molding, very lightly with a cutoff wheel, then drill out the interior pop-rivets. Then I siliconed over the remaining 1" lip and screwed the DiBond into it, flush with the crown molding at the edges. The DiBond is also the vapor barrier. As I mentioned I also replaced the slumped bags of fiberglass with rockwool, which slips right in but has no vapor barrier of its own. It was alot of work but totally worth it.