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MEP-003A

rlegare44

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If you were measuring 24V at the cannon plug with the switch on and none of the pumps were running and then you put 24V to the pump directly from the battery and both pumps ran, then either the cannon plugs weren't making a connection or you have a bad connection inside the control box that is not allowing enough amperage through to run the pumps. Go to the TM and check which pin on the terminal block in the center of the rear wall of the control panel is powering E2 and E3, you'll see it's TB5-7 from there the 2 wires go through the J2 connector on the back of the control box, pins E and F. Trace the circuit with you're meter and reverify you have power. If you still have an issue you can run a jumper from TB5-7 to one of the pumps and if it runs I would suspect a bad connection at J2.
From master switch, jumping from 11 power to 13 and 17, pumps run. Bad switch?
24v on terminal 11 and 25. All other points are dead on S1. Master switch. Is master switch bad?
 

Ray70

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Yup, sounds like a switch issue. Seeing that you were getting 24V from the switch to the cannon plugs originally, I would try cleaning the switch before condemning it. Get some good quality contact cleaner like Deoxit d5 , disconnect batteries and spray it into all the holes in the body of the switch, work the switch around vigorously, rinse and repeat a couple times, then test again.
 

Guyfang

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From master switch, jumping from 11 power to 13 and 17, pumps run. Bad switch?
24v on terminal 11 and 25. All other points are dead on S1. Master switch. Is master switch bad?

1727117327811.png
The S1 has internal jumpers, so as Ray said, yes, bad switch. Thats why I posted the picture. If the S1 is in the AUX position, 11.13.17 should all be hot. In prime/run, only 11 & 13.
 

rlegare44

New member
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11
1
Location
NH
From master switch, jumping from 11 power to 13 and 17, pumps run. Bad switch?
24v on terminal 11 and 25. All other points are dead on S1. Master switch. Is master switch bad?

View attachment 932141
The S1 has internal jumpers, so as Ray said, yes, bad switch. Thats why I posted the picture. If the S1 is in the AUX position, 11.13.17 should all be hot. In prime/run, only 11 & 13.
They are not hot, but jumping from switch contacts mentioned above, all pumps run. I will first try the contact cleaner and see what happens then. That being said, wpuld that also cause the emerg. breaker to pop?
 

Guyfang

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Could be a short in the S1. Get the S1 to work, or get a replacement. Then you can work the CB problem farther. Has someone "Fixed" the control panel? Is there wire burnt, replaced? Spliced? Any sign of other "creative" repair?
 

rlegare44

New member
27
11
1
Location
NH
Could be a short in the S1. Get the S1 to work, or get a replacement. Then you can work the CB problem farther. Has someone "Fixed" the control panel? Is there wire burnt, replaced? Spliced? Any sign of other "creative" repair?
Never replaced, no splicing, no burnt, and to my knowledge, no one outside of military has ever serviced it. Will try clean first as suggested, then get new one if available. Not cheap. :(
 

Ray70

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I thought we went down this road already, but does the breaker still pop even with the fuel pumps unplugged?
If not, one of the capacitors on your pumps is probably shorted out.
Like Guy suggested, overcome 1 issue at a time, fix the switch, then move to the next issue.
 

rlegare44

New member
27
11
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Location
NH
I thought we went down this road already, but does the breaker still pop even with the fuel pumps unplugged?
If not, one of the capacitors on your pumps is probably shorted out.
Like Guy suggested, overcome 1 issue at a time, fix the switch, then move to the next issue.
Well I would love to fix the switch, and Green Mountain has one for sale one back order. Problem is they want me to sign up, pay $5.00 just to speak to someone about something they offer for sale. That makes no sense at all.
So far, I have washed and cleaned contacts in and out on S1 but still no power other than start position does trun over engine. All three pumps run when jumped from control board. If they run when jumped, that should tell me that capacitors are ok as well, correct?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

rlegare44

New member
27
11
1
Location
NH
I thought we went down this road already, but does the breaker still pop even with the fuel pumps unplugged?
If not, one of the capacitors on your pumps is probably shorted out.
Like Guy suggested, overcome 1 issue at a time, fix the switch, then move to the next issue.
Have a full 24V reading to S1, nothing out to fuel pumps.
 

Scoobyshep

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Florida
Well I would love to fix the switch, and Green Mountain has one for sale one back order. Problem is they want me to sign up, pay $5.00 just to speak to someone about something they offer for sale. That makes no damn sense at all.
So far, I have washed and cleaned contacts in and out on S1 but still no power other than start position does trun over engine. All three pumps run when jumped from control board. If they run when jumped, that should tell me that capacitors are ok as well, correct?
Ebay is your friend. I can also look and see if i have a spare in my shop.

If you apply 24v to the pump (preferably through the circuit breaker) and you hear it run the caps are still good
 

rlegare44

New member
27
11
1
Location
NH
Ebay is your friend. I can also look and see if i have a spare in my shop.

If you apply 24v to the pump (preferably through the circuit breaker) and you hear it run the caps are still good
[/QUOT
And how many thousands of dollars would you charge if you have one? :))))))))))))
 

rlegare44

New member
27
11
1
Location
NH
Thank you, I checked the site and photo, it looks identical to the one I have. Will certainly keep that site on file. Lets hope that is the problem solved.
Ok, I ordered a new switch and will keep you posted. Can't thank you enough for all your help and guidance, let's hope this will resolve my problem. Have a great day.
 
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