MEP-003A

[rlegare44]

If you were measuring 24V at the cannon plug with the switch on and none of the pumps were running and then you put 24V to the pump directly from the battery and both pumps ran, then either the cannon plugs weren't making a connection or you have a bad connection inside the control box that is not allowing enough amperage through to run the pumps. Go to the TM and check which pin on the terminal block in the center of the rear wall of the control panel is powering E2 and E3, you'll see it's TB5-7 from there the 2 wires go through the J2 connector on the back of the control box, pins E and F. Trace the circuit with you're meter and reverify you have power. If you still have an issue you can run a jumper from TB5-7 to one of the pumps and if it runs I would suspect a bad connection at J2.

From master switch, jumping from 11 power to 13 and 17, pumps run. Bad switch?
24v on terminal 11 and 25. All other points are dead on S1. Master switch. Is master switch bad?

 

[Ray70]

Yup, sounds like a switch issue. Seeing that you were getting 24V from the switch to the cannon plugs originally, I would try cleaning the switch before condemning it. Get some good quality contact cleaner like Deoxit d5 , disconnect batteries and spray it into all the holes in the body of the switch, work the switch around vigorously, rinse and repeat a couple times, then test again.

 

[Guyfang]

From master switch, jumping from 11 power to 13 and 17, pumps run. Bad switch?
24v on terminal 11 and 25. All other points are dead on S1. Master switch. Is master switch bad?

The S1 has internal jumpers, so as Ray said, yes, bad switch. Thats why I posted the picture. If the S1 is in the AUX position, 11.13.17 should all be hot. In prime/run, only 11 & 13.

 

[rlegare44]

From master switch, jumping from 11 power to 13 and 17, pumps run. Bad switch?
24v on terminal 11 and 25. All other points are dead on S1. Master switch. Is master switch bad?
View attachment 932141
The S1 has internal jumpers, so as Ray said, yes, bad switch. Thats why I posted the picture. If the S1 is in the AUX position, 11.13.17 should all be hot. In prime/run, only 11 & 13.

They are not hot, but jumping from switch contacts mentioned above, all pumps run. I will first try the contact cleaner and see what happens then. That being said, wpuld that also cause the emerg. breaker to pop?

 

[rlegare44]

They are not hot, but jumping from switch contacts mentioned above, all pumps run. I will first try the contact cleaner and see what happens then. That being said, wpuld that also cause the emerg. breaker to pop?

When attempting to start gen. that is.

 

[Guyfang]

Could be a short in the S1. Get the S1 to work, or get a replacement. Then you can work the CB problem farther. Has someone "Fixed" the control panel? Is there wire burnt, replaced? Spliced? Any sign of other "creative" repair?

 

[rlegare44]

Could be a short in the S1. Get the S1 to work, or get a replacement. Then you can work the CB problem farther. Has someone "Fixed" the control panel? Is there wire burnt, replaced? Spliced? Any sign of other "creative" repair?

Never replaced, no splicing, no burnt, and to my knowledge, no one outside of military has ever serviced it. Will try clean first as suggested, then get new one if available. Not cheap.

 

[Ray70]

I thought we went down this road already, but does the breaker still pop even with the fuel pumps unplugged?
If not, one of the capacitors on your pumps is probably shorted out.
Like Guy suggested, overcome 1 issue at a time, fix the switch, then move to the next issue.

 

[rlegare44]

I thought we went down this road already, but does the breaker still pop even with the fuel pumps unplugged?
If not, one of the capacitors on your pumps is probably shorted out.
Like Guy suggested, overcome 1 issue at a time, fix the switch, then move to the next issue.

Well I would love to fix the switch, and Green Mountain has one for sale one back order. Problem is they want me to sign up, pay $5.00 just to speak to someone about something they offer for sale. That makes no sense at all.
So far, I have washed and cleaned contacts in and out on S1 but still no power other than start position does trun over engine. All three pumps run when jumped from control board. If they run when jumped, that should tell me that capacitors are ok as well, correct?

 

[rlegare44]

I thought we went down this road already, but does the breaker still pop even with the fuel pumps unplugged?
If not, one of the capacitors on your pumps is probably shorted out.
Like Guy suggested, overcome 1 issue at a time, fix the switch, then move to the next issue.

Have a full 24V reading to S1, nothing out to fuel pumps.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Well I would love to fix the switch, and Green Mountain has one for sale one back order. Problem is they want me to sign up, pay $5.00 just to speak to someone about something they offer for sale. That makes no damn sense at all.
So far, I have washed and cleaned contacts in and out on S1 but still no power other than start position does trun over engine. All three pumps run when jumped from control board. If they run when jumped, that should tell me that capacitors are ok as well, correct?

Ebay is your friend. I can also look and see if i have a spare in my shop.

If you apply 24v to the pump (preferably through the circuit breaker) and you hear it run the caps are still good

 

[rlegare44]

Ebay is your friend. I can also look and see if i have a spare in my shop.

If you apply 24v to the pump (preferably through the circuit breaker) and you hear it run the caps are still good
[/QUOT
And how many thousands of dollars would you charge if you have one? )))))))))))

 

[Scoobyshep]

Try this:

NEW ELECTROSWITCH 76902LA ROTARY SWITCH 5930-01-055-9251 +++++++++++++++++ | eBay

Alternate Cummins Power Generation P/N 308-0318.

www.ebay.com

 

[rlegare44]

Try this:

NEW ELECTROSWITCH 76902LA ROTARY SWITCH 5930-01-055-9251 +++++++++++++++++ | eBay

Alternate Cummins Power Generation P/N 308-0318.

www.ebay.com

Thank you, I checked the site and photo, it looks identical to the one I have. Will certainly keep that site on file. Lets hope that is the problem solved.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Thank you, I checked the site and photo, it looks identical to the one I have. Will certainly keep that site on file. Lets hope that is the problem solved.

For reference: I used the -12 manual to confirm i was looking at the right switch, then the -24p manual to identify the nsn of the part.

 

[rlegare44]

Thank you, I checked the site and photo, it looks identical to the one I have. Will certainly keep that site on file. Lets hope that is the problem solved.

Ok, I ordered a new switch and will keep you posted. Can't thank you enough for all your help and guidance, let's hope this will resolve my problem. Have a great day.

 

[rlegare44]

If you have 24volt at the quick disconnect wother the suppression capacitor is burnt out, the pump is jammed, or the pump is burnt out.

The capacitor can be removed and bypassed (see Guys comment above).

The pump needs further disassembly and cleaned

Or pump needs replaced


The disassembly and cleaning is very easy and I prefer taking it to a work bench. Remove the end cap and filter, there is a check ball in a tube, remove the retainer clip (be careful there is a spring behind it). Remove ball assembly and spring. There is a long metal plunger past the spring. This will get gummed and jammed. Ive had them come out as easy as a few taps on the top, and as hard as blowing 120psi of compressed air through the pump discharge (plunger launch imminent). After my ears stopped ringing and I was able to dig the plunger out of the Sheetrock, I cleaned it with brake parts cleaner and got it moving smoothly in the bore. Reassemble and test.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Hello again, Well I replaced the S1 switch and wa la ! the pumps and primers work. But, as I was priming I noticed a fuel lead from the fuel pump canister. I removed the canister and found that when they serviced the unit, upon replacing the canister, they kinked the gasket and it slightly twisted preventing a tight fit, now I am trying to locate one that is the same size, AND SHAPE, as this is not a standard O ring type. Photos of those that i have seen do not really show the shape. Any ideas? HAte to order one and be stuck with it.

 

[rlegare44]

One other thing, is there a filter in that canister? One did not come out.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Fuel strainer or fuel filter?

When you buy the new wix fuel filters they come with a gasket that can be used to replace the top end cast or gasket however they don't just sell the gasket so if you need one for the strainer what I've done in the past is buy a fuel filter and I just reuse the fuel filter gasket between two changes

 

[rlegare44]

This is what I show. Is that shiny part the strainer, or filter? Or is there a filter that goes in here also. There are gaskets for sale but they don't show shape. Will a standard O ring work?