2000 HMMWV M1123 Project

[mow***com]

Small update... Although, my M1123 fuel system isn't perfect, I've started to think that my fueling problem comes from the dual lever brake switch in my truck.
I actually tested my lights against a wall and figured out that my brake lights come on way too late.
This is either from a contact problem, or out of adjustment problem.

Looking at it, I decided it could handle some slight adjustments.
For example, the mounting set up doesn't look very robust. A few hard hammers on the brake and I truly feel like it might have some give on that switch mount set up.
That being said, I decided to shim the front section and use my ol trusty mallet, with a few well placed whacks to see if I could place it further from the firewall.
Definite success (I dont feel like the torque converter is staying locked in gear, while at a traffic light anymore)... But, I still feel like this switch is living on borrowed time. Plus, I still don't like the mount set up, or the rod push clip.

Got all the windows in, finally. Sadly, I dropped the rear window through and onto the bed, trying to get it sealed. So, I have a few scratches that will need attention. But, it isn't too big of a deal. The truck is finally warm.
Plus, I found some 2.5 hvac style tubing at Oreilly. I will use some exhaust wrap and use it for my engine section heater crossover tubing. Certainly did it for less than $65+, so every bit helps.

That is about it for now. Just small hose leaks that need attention, mostly because I tighten things fairly gently, without listed torque specs.
Soon enough, I'll report the 1k update and do some small inspections. Thanks again, everyone.

 

[mow***com]

Just another quick update...

The truck has crossed over the 45,000 mile mark and now has 1100 miles under my driving.
The last days have been going over bolts and making sure things are still snug.
The transmission feels like it is shifting pretty well, the engine has good oil pressure and the cooling system seems to be going through the cycles.
The injection pump is starting to feel better. This is hard to say and hard to prove. But, I still remember the first time I drove it, solid black plumes everywhere.
I've been double dosing my additives in the tank and am just starting to back off and single dose. The truck holds idle better than it has and holds load better than it ever has. The brake switch still apparently seems to be working as it should. It stays running at a stoplight and doesn't feel like the TC is locked on.

I've started using the radio tray for modular type bolt on accessories. Storage, cup holder, soon to be cell phone holder, etc. Since, I don't plan to use any comms, this will work until I can decide for a custom dog house, or stereo add in.
I just got some fold down cup holders at Scheels and quickly cut some back plates. It is fairly thin gauge aluminum. But, it holds drinks just fine.
For some reason, I kind of like using wing nuts for quick ideas(Plus, the cup holders are drilled to mount in a couple different places on the tray.

On another note... I never had a windshield wiper switch for my truck. I had a knob, but no switch.
So, while hunting... I decided to grab a tested/functioning motor that came with a switch.
After installing the switch, nada (nuffin). Well knowing that the press pin grommet strips are a cause for failure, I started making a plan to remove the hardtop, to make my own harness, to bypass the pins.
However, since I bought a replacement tested motor. It made sense to pop it in and see if the motor moved.
One reason that I believed it would work is because earlier, I saw a small dip on my alternator gauge, making me think something was drawing.
That being said, I wired up the replacement motor and voilà. So, after a little snooping around, I now have a working wiper system.
If I could just get the sprayer motor to actually work now.

So, things have been feeling alright. But, I am scared to get complacent.
Often checks get me to each next destination and I am thankful for the experience.
Eventually, I'd like to get an A2 rear bumper, with a spare tire carrier. I'll be patient and just enjoy the time until it happens.
Right now, the truck drives about 50/50 highway and street driving. On the freeway, I am around 62-70mph and the truck feels pretty good.
In the spring, the steering will need attention, I can just feel it.
Until then, I just keep up with keeping up, on the these updates.

 

[Mogman]

Just another quick update...

The truck has crossed over the 45,000 mile mark and now has 1100 miles under my driving.
The last days have been going over bolts and making sure things are still snug.
The transmission feels like it is shifting pretty well, the engine has good oil pressure and the cooling system seems to be going through the cycles.
The injection pump is starting to feel better. This is hard to say and hard to prove. But, I still remember the first time I drove it, solid black plumes everywhere.
I've been double dosing my additives in the tank and am just starting to back off and single dose. The truck holds idle better than it has and holds load better than it ever has. The brake switch still apparently seems to be working as it should. It stays running at a stoplight and doesn't feel like the TC is locked on.

I've started using the radio tray for modular type bolt on accessories. Storage, cup holder, soon to be cell phone holder, etc. Since, I don't plan to use any comms, this will work until I can decide for a custom dog house, or stereo add in.
I just got some fold down cup holders at Scheels and quickly cut some back plates. It is fairly thin gauge aluminum. But, it holds drinks just fine.
For some reason, I kind of like using wing nuts for quick ideas(Plus, the cup holders are drilled to mount in a couple different places on the tray.

On another note... I never had a windshield wiper switch for my truck. I had a knob, but no switch.
So, while hunting... I decided to grab a tested/functioning motor that came with a switch.
After installing the switch, nada (nuffin). Well knowing that the press pin grommet strips are a cause for failure, I started making a plan to remove the hardtop, to make my own harness, to bypass the pins.
However, since I bought a replacement tested motor. It made sense to pop it in and see if the motor moved.
One reason that I believed it would work is because earlier, I saw a small dip on my alternator gauge, making me think something was drawing.
That being said, I wired up the replacement motor and voilà. So, after a little snooping around, I now have a working wiper system.
If I could just get the sprayer motor to actually work now.

So, things have been feeling alright. But, I am scared to get complacent.
Often checks get me to each next destination and I am thankful for the experience.
Eventually, I'd like to get an A2 rear bumper, with a spare tire carrier. I'll be patient and just enjoy the time until it happens.
Right now, the truck drives about 50/50 highway and street driving. On the freeway, I am around 62-70mph and the truck feels pretty good.
In the spring, the steering will need attention, I can just feel it.
Until then, I just keep up with keeping up, on the these updates.

I am glade things are going your way! but to be clear the stop switch was not likely the issue causing the TC to lock up, unless the wiring is really fouled up.

 

[mow***com]

I am glade things are going your way! but to be clear the stop switch was not likely the issue causing the TC to lock up, unless the wiring is really fouled up.

I can't possibly think of anything else, other than the TPS, or something in the injection pump that might have an effect while at a stoplight.
The only other tiny wrinkle that I might notice is that the transmission on very rare occasion feels like it shifts at a higher rpm than most times(usually in the morning)
I did clean and add dielectric grease to the TPS connector recently.

The truck is driven everyday currently. So, I am trying to keep my ear to the ground with the M1123. Much appreciated, Mogman.

 

[Mogman]

I can't possibly think of anything else, other than the TPS, or something in the injection pump that might have an effect while at a stoplight.
The only other tiny wrinkle that I might notice is that the transmission on very rare occasion feels like it shifts at a higher rpm than most times(usually in the morning)
I did clean and add dielectric grease to the TPS connector recently.

The truck is driven everyday currently. So, I am trying to keep my ear to the ground with the M1123. Much appreciated, Mogman.

The stop light switch nor the TPS actually control the TC lock, the stop light switch can take the trans out of lock but the TCM controls the lockup

 

[mow***com]

Just a small update...

I've just been trying to drive the M1123 as much as possible.
Rotated the tires, which I feel like I might try another wheel/tire combo in the future.
In the last few days, I noticed coolant at the front of the truck. It looks like the radiator has started a small leak. I'll double check everything. But, it appears to be coming from the lower passenger side front area.
That being said. I am debating whether to have it repaired, or just move to an aluminum 3 core and be done with it.

The truck is at about 1800 miles, since it hit the road. Just yesterday, for Thanksgiving, I took the M1123 up to Park City, Utah.
I was a little timid about Parley's Summit. This is pretty much the toughest journey that the truck has taken so far.
Although, all went well enough. Temps stayed in range and I learned a little more about the truck.
I didn't feel like fighting 4th gear up the pass. So, I settled for 3rd gear and lowered my revs a little bit. About 47-49mph up and over the summit, then shift into 4th.
Transmission responded better than I had expected, to be quite honest.

So, I will keep going and going. Let's see where this adventure takes me.
Took the pups up the canyon the other day, for a little mountain play.
Man, the dogs are going to ruin the soft windows, I can just feel it.
I am thinking about getting rear fiberglass doors, purely so I can lower the windows for the dogs.
One thing that I have decided is, I am going to add a 24v to 12v converter. The Orion 70amp model looks like it should do the trick.
At lower speeds, I miss having a stereo. So, that is my main motivation.
I just want to do something a little different than create a dog house assembly.

Since, i have a hardtop... I'd like to do something over head. Mostly, the speakers over head and use the radio tray to house the CD receiver, CB radio, etc.
I'd like this to be as invisible as possible, so I will use small amps and thin 8" or 10" subs. I don't really need to rattle the truck anymore than it already does. I just like more bass presence than most 6x9 speakers offer.
I also don't want subs to go in between the rear seats, since I put 8 foot boards in the back of the truck often enough, plus ladders, ramps, etc.

So, I will be thinking about this and trying to design my own set up.
It would also be nice to have power/USB outlets, with an on board switch plate.
Still hoping to find an A2 rear bumper locally. I'd really like to move my spare tire to the rear of the truck, rather than inside.
Plus, add some fuel cans for camping trips in the spring.
It will be a slow evolution. But, I'll get there when I get there.

 

[mow***com]

More pics of the pups...

 

[Mullaney]

More pics of the pups...

.
And the dogs looked like they were having a great time!

 

[Mogman]

If you have a 4sp then you can tap enough 12v for a stereo without an inverter unless you want to rattle the license plates.

 

[mow***com]

If you have a 4sp then you can tap enough 12v for a stereo without an inverter unless you want to rattle the license plates.

I imagine I will be running around 500-600 watts, solely for the amp, maybe even 1k watts, if I run twin subs.
Plus, the CD stereo receiver and various other junk. It would probably give me a little peace of mind to have it ran through a 24-12v stepper and small fuse box, to the battery.

I had planned to use the relay for signal, and just find a 24v power to ignition. I imagine that is the easiest way.

 

[Coug]

I imagine I will be running around 500-600 watts, solely for the amp, maybe even 1k watts, if I run twin subs.
Plus, the CD stereo receiver and various other junk. It would probably give me a little peace of mind to have it ran through a 24-12v stepper and small fuse box, to the battery.

I had planned to use the relay for signal, and just find a 24v power to ignition. I imagine that is the easiest way.

I'd say you're definitely above what can be sustainably handled by the 12V tap on the regulator.

The Orion 70 amp 24-12 converter can be run with up to 5 units in parallel and have a built in relay that just needs wired to a switched power source or a regular switch to turn it on/off. Sounds like a pair of them would be a good starting point if you're going over 500 watts for the amp.

 

[Mogman]

I imagine I will be running around 500-600 watts, solely for the amp, maybe even 1k watts, if I run twin subs.
Plus, the CD stereo receiver and various other junk. It would probably give me a little peace of mind to have it ran through a 24-12v stepper and small fuse box, to the battery.

I had planned to use the relay for signal, and just find a 24v power to ignition. I imagine that is the easiest way.

Who is going end up paying for your hearing disability?

 

[Milcommoguy]

I imagine I will be running around 500-600 watts, solely for the amp, maybe even 1k watts, if I run twin subs.
Plus, the CD stereo receiver and various other junk. It would probably give me a little peace of mind to have it ran through a 24-12v stepper and small fuse box, to the battery.

I had planned to use the relay for signal, and just find a 24v power to ignition. I imagine that is the easiest way.

"Maybe even 1k watts ??" Well at 13.8 volts, figure 72.5 amps. Being the amp / music is not a continuous load...the batteries capacity would carry the peak current (instantaneous) ( they are good yes?) I would not be to worried, IMO. Question I have is that 1000 W, DC input power to amp or some BOOM BOX make your ears bleed rating. Save your money for the copper cable too.

Where's my ear muffs, CAMO

 

[mow***com]

Alright... Small update.

Several things have come up and I am just trying to make some decisions.
While I wouldn't mind just using the rear battery for a 12v tap, it would probably make me feel a little better to have the Orion 24/12-70 set up for aftermarket 12v power. Just in case I decide for interior lights, reverse camera, USB outlets, CB radio, etc.
Right now, I am just going to get the wires routed and see if I can get some sound going in the next few days.

I did have a question for those who have done it before. I planned to just use the 'Run' ignition position to power the (edit: signal for the) 24v/12v converter.
However, I've read to tap the transmission relay for the signal to the 24v/12v converter. I just don't know which wire to tap at the relay.
I'll try to read my diagram and see if I can find it.
But, does anyone have a clue which wire it is?

Lastly.... The truck just rolled over 46k. Feels good to get some miles on the truck. I am going to grease the fittings this next week and check the undercarriage bolts.
Recently, the truck left me stranded and I originally thought it might be my alternator, starter, or fuel system. The front battery failed the load test though... So another battery and the M1123 is back on the road.
I've named my truck 'Ratback' and it will hopefully keep on rolling. Next targets are 50k and 55k miles.
At the moment, I've decided to just daily drive the truck. Life is too short and I enjoy being able to take the dogs everywhere.

I've added sun visors to my truck. The windshield frame didn't have them surprisingly. Plus, I mounted the tachometer. It will take me time to get the thing wired up. But, at least it is mounted up.
I'll get some pics later, since it got dark outside. That is pretty much all for now.

 

[Mogman]

I would not power the inverter off of ether source, if it will not allow remote switching as the Orion will then I would use a relay controlled by ether of your listed sources.
There is switched 12V at 290C and switched 24V at 29T at the trans relay, there is possibly extra # 29 wire not being used near the trans relay but again I would not directly power an inverter with ether of these sources or the run signal.

 

[mow***com]

I would not power the inverter off of ether source, if it will not allow remote switching as the Orion will then I would use a relay controlled by ether of your listed sources.
There is switched 12V at 290C and switched 24V at 29T at the trans relay, there is possibly extra # 29 wire not being used near the trans relay but again I would not directly power an inverter with ether of these sources or the run signal.

Thanks. Ugh.... Now, I am sort of back to square one and say why not just use the battery. Well, shoot.

:] I edited my earlier post. I meant to say that I planned to use the run position wire to power the signal for the 24/12 converter.
My original idea was to run 6-8 gauge wiring, fused from the 24v side battery for power and ground, to the 24/12 converter.

 

[Mogman]

Thanks. Ugh.... Now, I am sort of back to square one and say why not just use the battery. Well, shoot.

:] I edited my earlier post. I meant to say that I planned to use the run position wire to power the signal for the 24/12 converter.
My original idea was to run 6-8 gauge wiring, fused from the 24v side battery for power and ground, to the 24/12 converter.

That would work, you could also pick up that "signal" at the trans relay which would be more convenient as usually the inverter is placed in the battery box.
I have seen unused #29 leads (switched 24V) near the trans relay that would be very handy as an "on" signal to the inverter.

 

[mow***com]

Small update... So, I have spent the last few days gathering parts for the 24/12v converter.
Now that I have gone this far, I imagine I will go pretty wild with the options. It would be awesome to have a decent light set up inside the truck and outside.
Also, I am just going to run a basic single DIN cd player. I thought about doing a DVD double DIN set up. But, it just isn't needed right now, or possibly ever. Touch screen stuff on a small screen, plus a bumpy truck doesn't mix for me.

Speakers will be a basic set up, until I can design something over head.
Subwoofer will likely be a 10"-12" woofer, in the passenger rear seat box.
Mono or two channel micro amplifier will be rated at 4 ohms for at least 500 watts. If I have to run at 2 ohms, so be it.
Amplifier will be located in the battery box, allowing me to run just speakers wires to the rear seat box.

I've read recent and older threads about the 24/12v converter, vs tapping the rear battery. I'm pretty happy with the route chosen... But, I was about 50/50 on what I would do.
I will have to run a 24/12v tail light converter for a standard trailer set up anyway... So, I need the experience.
24v power feed will be fused to the converter. 12v power feed, from the converter runs to a fused distribution block, then to the smaller fuse panel. Amplifier will also be fed from the fused distribution block.

That is about all for now. This is how my battery box is starting to look. I will cut a piece of rubber, or something to go underneath the sub amplifier. I am just testing how everything will fit.
Lastly... I have my slave receptacle removed temporarily for the install. Part of me wants to to just delete it. I'd rather just keep a 24v jump box in the truck, vs deal with it when broken down. So, we'll see how that turns out. Stay tuned for more.

 

[mow***com]

Gonna continue this post, since I have the time today.

The amp that I've decided on is the NVX NDA12001, which on paper seems powerful at its 2400W peak rating. In the real world, RMS is around 500Wx1 @4 ohms and that should be more than enough for what I need. I am not going for the highest SQ. It doesn't seem like it would hardly matter to me for this application.

The underdash mount kit that I chose is the Metra 99-9000 single DIN unit. It is simple and will likely just be mounted underneath one of the radio tray platforms.

Haven't decided on speakers quite yet. They will possibly be 4 inch, for ease of creating a tidy look off the windshield frame. Although, I am open to mounting from the windshield frame to the B pillar, or another area. It will just require thinner speakers.
I thought about boat type tilt/swivel speakers, but don't know if I will appreciate the end look.
I'd like to run the JL TW3 subwoofer. I have run a few of them with decent results for a thin woofer. I do have a full size 10" woofer and might get crazy and create a custom enclosure. But, it isn't really needed.

Edit: It somehow just occurred to me that I need a 12v constant for the stereo, for the memory, clock, etc.
I suppose I will wire the stereo receiver constant 12v wire to the rear battery and use the signal wire, through the converter to power the stereo on/off. Either that, or find a run position power source to power it on/off.

 

[BLK HMMWV]

Definitely not standard equipment on a HMMWV. This should be in the modified section