Seems like this is turning into a build thread.

[cucvrus]

I seen 2 CUCV's that had a slave cable port on the rear bumper. One was an M1009 and the other was a Pickup. It was not OEM but none the less they were there. Power points for whatever. Are the cables you have long enough to reach a certain point front or rear. Possibly a 24-volt winch. Heaven knows 40 years later.

 

[CARC686]

I seen 2 CUCV's that had a slave cable port on the rear bumper. One was an M1009 and the other was a Pickup. It was not OEM but none the less they were there. Power points for whatever. Are the cables you have long enough to reach a certain point front or rear. Possibly a 24-volt winch. Heaven knows 40 years later.

The wires ended right at the grommet where the 24v radio cables pass through the floor pan as if somebody just snipped them off. It did cross my mind that the license plate recess on my bumper could be a great place for a 24v winch, but then winches are shockingly expensive, so probably not.

 

[CARC686]

Let there be light. Thank you to @WWRD99 for the NPS adjustment procedure and thank you to @cucvrus for the bulbs.



Anybody know the pinout on these? Goal is to power the flood light with the trailer reverse circuit.

 

[CARC686]

Let there be light. Thank you to @WWRD99 for the NPS adjustment procedure and thank you to @cucvrus for the bulbs.

View attachment 932592

Anybody know the pinout on these? Goal is to power the flood light with the trailer reverse circuit.

View attachment 932594

View attachment 932595

AI doesn't know what it's talking about most of the time, so as a rule, I tend not to listen to it, but it did just tell me that the M1009 trailer connection has no reverse light provision, and given four wires, that covers ground, run, turn, and brake. It's probably true. Bummer.

 

[deank]

You could tap in to the reverse light on the left or right side or at the connector on the frame.

 

[CARC686]

You could tap in to the reverse light on the left or right side or at the connector on the frame.

Was concerned with electrical load, but the harness was designed for a nominal 26 watt incandescent bulb, which is roughly equivalent to the draw of the LED 1156 and the LED floodlight combined. The size, weight, and lumens of the floodlamp were giving me worries of letting the magic smoke out for no reason. Thank you, sir.

 

[WWRD99]

AI doesn't know what it's talking about most of the time, so as a rule, I tend not to listen to it, but it did just tell me that the M1009 trailer connection has no reverse light provision, and given four wires, that covers ground, run, turn, and brake. It's probably true. Bummer.

Glad the reverse lights work now! It's odd the diagram you posted shows 4 wires when there's 6 with both plugs on the truck. Throw it in reverse and see if one of the wires gets hot...I'd back probe that since I think the harness grounds itself with one of those wires. If not I'd run another wire from the switch out...maybe relay it...but that depends on how much light amp load your putting on it.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[CARC686]

Yeah, there are six wires in the plugs, but the diagram only shows four, which led me to presume it was a universal part across multiple platforms and the other two wires on the CUCV aren't connected to anything. I don't know that. Just assume it based upon the TM. I checked every wire against every other wire for voltage KOEO in reverse last night and got nothing.

Mathed it out to about 19 watts at an amp and a half for one LED 1156 with one Badlands floodlamp at 12v. This is actually less than a single incandescent 1156. The manual for the floodlamp states that they're 12/24v, which may be of interest to people here.

 

[deank]

If you run a separate power line for the led light, you could use the reverse light positive to activate a relay for the led light. Withe relay under the hood or in the cab.

 

[cucvrus]

In the 6 wires at the rear trailer plug outlet you have stand service lamps.
Right turn/stop
Left turn/stop
Park lamps
Ground wire

Black out trailer wiring
Amber cat eye driving light 4 amber slits per side
Red stop lamp 1 red light in center of the Amber slits with the park lamps on. I hope that explains the 6 wires. No Back up in the trailer harness.

 

[CARC686]

I paid $20 a bottle for ATP AT-205 on eBay and received a package from Rock Auto. I looked it up on Rock Auto and was irritated to see I had been drop ship surcharged 33%. Just one more thing they hide in the menus so you can't find it.

ATP AT205 Transmission Leak Sealant | Shop Now at RockAuto

ATP Transmission-Automatic Parts and More for Your Vehicle at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

Everywhere I park looks like a crime scene, so I figured this would be a harmless hail Mary before crawling into the grease pit for heavy lifting.

 

[cucvrus]

Where is your transmission leaking from. I see many that leak from the shifter. That is an easy fix. Amazon.com: Shift Lever Shaft Seal Tool | Installer/Remove | Genuine TIMKEN Seal for gm Auto Transmission : Automotive

 

[CARC686]

Situationally appropriate literature.

 

[CARC686]

Where is your transmission leaking from. I see many that leak from the shifter. That is an easy fix. Amazon.com: Shift Lever Shaft Seal Tool | Installer/Remove | Genuine TIMKEN Seal for gm Auto Transmission : Automotive

On the turbo 350, I found I could just use a socket to pound a new seal in on top of the old one in a pinch. Beats ending up with a hardened extractor broken off in your transmission like one of the reviews stated. The mechanic in a bottle stuff seems to have fixed nine leaks that I was aware of between the engine, transmission, and hydroboost; for the time being, anyway. It's nice that I don't have to wait for the torque converter to pump up before it'll move.

Also, I'd recommend to everybody to wash out your squirt bottle, the filter on the hose, and blow pressurized water through the washer motor while someone holds the switch. It doesn't need to be replaced. It just needs the muck blown out. Empty it entirely and fill it with an appropriate fluid that won't freeze and bust the seams. I use ethanol diluted with distilled water to an appropriate freezing point because I already have it. 30% will do you past 0°F. Replace your wiper blades if they're underperforming. If the connection is a problem, just yank out the blades and push them into the old frames. It's been my experience that you can order wiper blades from Rock Auto for like a dollar, so I order in bulk and keep a pair in the cab. Simple stuff that affects one of the most important aspects of operation: visibility.

If anybody has any tips on wiper motor maintenance, I'd like to hear them.

 

[CARC686]

It wasn't so long ago that I was thrilled with the feel of new springs, shocks, and eliminating the rag joint, but it's like giving a mouse a cookie. The tightness of the new parts makes the push-pull steering painfully evident every time either pedal gets a workout. Having to make steering corrections for straight line brake application is not my favorite thing, and it's a hazard when other people drive it. The solution appears to be crossover steering. The problem is that my truck has an all new stock height suspension, which I've no intention of replacing.

My intuition is that I'm probably just going to have to live with it, but my optimism says someone here may have a tip or trick for me. Just don't tell me to put the rag joint back in the truck. Compensating for slop with more slop is the opposite of my goals.

 

[vanaisa]

Jeep U-joint shaft?

 

[CARC686]

Yeah. There's a picture of it somewhere in this thread.

 

[cucvrus]

To me it sounds like you need a good front end alignment. Not aligned with a tape measure or a hack yard trick. A good alignment and having the entire steering linkage and steering box checked out by a skilled competent technician. They are hard to find these days. Good Luck. I have driven CUCV's several 100,000 miles. not so much anymore. But they should drive like they did in 1984.

 

[CARC686]

Good to hear from you, Rick. Hope you're feeling well. I just haven't got much faith in anybody since I paid a shop to align my C10 and it was never right again. I've worked in those shops and seen that they usually have the least qualified person possible set the toe and push it out the door.

 

[biscuitwhistler37]

It wasn't so long ago that I was thrilled with the feel of new springs, shocks, and eliminating the rag joint, but it's like giving a mouse a cookie. The tightness of the new parts makes the push-pull steering painfully evident every time either pedal gets a workout. Having to make steering corrections for straight line brake application is not my favorite thing, and it's a hazard when other people drive it. The solution appears to be crossover steering. The problem is that my truck has an all new stock height suspension, which I've no intention of replacing.

My intuition is that I'm probably just going to have to live with it, but my optimism says someone here may have a tip or trick for me. Just don't tell me to put the rag joint back in the truck. Compensating for slop with more slop is the opposite of my goals.

Would a new/stiffer steering stabilizer shock help the problem?